derf

I avoid putting anything on anyone else's property. You never know how random people will react.

Yeah, I looked at the website. The owner is probably laughing all the way to the bank at the suckers who buy that crap. I wish I would have thought of it.

No kits are available. You just cut off the spring perches and shock mounts. Then weld them (or new replacements) on where you need them. Hook up the brakes and you're good to go.

Does that suggest putting bumper stickers on someone else's Jeep? That's a good way to get a punch in the face if you ask me. And yes, I've never heard of that either.

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It could be a Durango box. That box is a little bigger and they suggest adding a couple of washers to each bolt to space it away from the frame.

You can google "XJ Steering Box Spacer" and see a bunch of different options along with pictures of stock spacers. I'm running this one on my XJ and will put one in my project MJ when it's time: https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJSTSPC.html

There should be a spacer between the gear box and the frame rail. Maybe 3/4" thick or so. The stock spacer is weak. Aftermarket upgrade spacers are inexpensive and easy to get.

I just noticed I've been on here just over a year. Time sure flies when you don't know what you're doing...

It's going to be a dedicated rock crawler and I like crawling with an automatic more than a manual, especially on the trails I'll be running (up towards the "oh hell no" end of the scale). I have been contemplating replacing my current XJ with a manual (AX15) equipped XJ/MJ for regular driving because I still like stick shifts.

I'm going to be swapping over to an AW4 in my MJ (from the BA 10/5) and I want to swap in a pedal assembly for an automatic. If you have a spare laying around, I'd pay a reasonable price plus shipping. Destination is 80108 (Castle Rock, CO). Let me know what you have. I have to keep the clutch in the Jeep while I go though the title/inspection process so I can't do an exchange easily.

Not much. We got the engine placement set the way we want it. He's sleeved the mounting holes for the engine mounts. He and I have discussed adding plate steel to the outside of the frame to reinforce it since the heavy engine with that much torque has a tendency to crack the frame if you don't beef it up. We've been doing other projects like getting our MJs running (he bought the second one of the pair I picked up from me) and going out on Jeep trails before everything starts getting snowed in. It's likely to start seeing more progress over the winter.

Got some done today while it sits waiting for an axle. I've been rebuilding the tail light connector at the chassis. The DSPO (dip "stick" previous owner had hacked it up badly. Wire nuts were involved. But I also wanted to add full 7 pin trailer plug support. The chassis plug has 7 pins with 2 unused. It's standard metri-pack so I was able to set it up with all 7 wires. I'm not 100% done but the tail harness works now. The back up switch in the trans is bad but the wires work so that's just a new switch for $18 from Rock Auto. But we got the fuel tank back in and a few gallons thrown it. After a little weirdness with the starter it cranked for a bit and caught fire It has a little trouble keeping constant idle but it runs smoothly. There is a little bit of a fuel leak but it's obvious where it is coming from and I need to replace the rubber anyway. But ot starts. It runs. It leaks. It's a Jeep.

I trust the brand the shop buys and warranties. Installing gears requires precision work with specialty tools. You can probably do it. But there's a lot to be said for having a shop give you the guarantee.

Even with 33s, you'd want to regear. For an automatic, 4.56s or 4.88s at least. For a manual, 4.10s or 4.56s are good.

I don't know too many shops in the area since I do my own work for the most part. I can ask around and see what I can find. One question to ask though. Would you be open to doing a Camaro 3.4 V6 swap? It's an easier swap to replace the 2.8 but still a really good upgrade.

$600 more than I paid for a pair of them....

Yeah, the Peugeot BA 10/5 uses a different crossmember that interferes with a lot of long arm kits. Reason number 40279 to upgrade to an AX15.

It actually made me think again about getting an old E350 van with a diesel to be my tow rig/camper. I could paint it like that and call it Van Haulin. The plate would be VNHAULN

I learned long ago. The leaks are never gone.

This would be perfect for running with the devil on the mean streets. If it was for sale I'd jump on it because everybody wants some. We could drive it down to Panama.

A low pinion Waggy 44 is still stronger than a high pinion 30. The stronger, of course, is a high pinion 44. But the low pinion is no slouch. A Waggy 44 is an upgrade no matter how you look at it. The whole housing from hub to hub is bigger and beefier. The ring and pinion are bigger and stronger. Sure, the low pinion is driving the coast side of the gears but people put too much emphasis on that. It's a front axle. It's pulling a lot less of the vehicle weight than the rear. By a long shot. That being said, tire size and limitations are different from person to person. I had a JK with 35's and I went all over the place. The biggest reason for me to let it go was that the wheelbase wasn't enough for the hill climbs here in Colorado and Moab. And I had a little bit of limitation on the top end trails. So I'm building my MJ with 40"+ tires. It has the wheelbase and will have the tires so I can go big and not have to go home. But I also wheel with a bunch of people who stay on 35's and have tons of fun on 80-90% of the trails out here. Are 35's enough? That's a question only you can answer.

The timing for me to buy this is way off. It looks like a good all around truck and he's throwing in a bunch of extra parts. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/denver-1989-jeep-cherokee-comanche/7210469736.html

I'm interested too. I may be looking at a rebuild in my XJ soon and that would be a good time for a cam or other things like that.

Up until about 1972, engines were rated with the SAE gross method. That was the engine by itself. No belt drive, open headers, no air cleaner. And it was at the flywheel. Ot didn't give you a true sense of what it would do in the car. So they switched in around 1972. The SAE net rating is still at the flywheel but it is the engine as it is installed in the car. All the accessories like the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, AC compressor are attached. The factory exhaust is installed, the factory air cleaner is used. The exact details have been tweaked over the years but the measured ratings are more accurate. Numbers dropped a good 20-40% when they made the switch. And then the emissions stuff hit by 1974 and they dropped a bunch more. Then there is the chassis dyno. It measures the power at the wheels. That takes the net rating one step further. It accounts for the parasitic loss from the transmission, transfer case, axle, and tires. This is usually in the neighborhood of 15-20% lower than the flywheel measurement. But it's going to be the best predictor of how fast you're going to accelerate.