75sv1

Mine would be if the lifters are clattering or clicking. Then I'd run Marvel Mystery Oil, Berryman's Chem B-12 or Seafoam. Then again, a good diesel oil might do the trick. I have also tried a quart of trans fluid. I have tried the 5 minute Flush a long time ago. I would not use it, as it might be to aggressive, and cause bearing damage. As for the Pennzoil, Quaker State, Kendall and probably a few others, some of this info might be from the 80's. I heard stories where guys changed at 2K and their engines were clean. One guy posted some pictures on BITOG of an engine with over 200K using conventional oils. Looked clean, almost as clean as synthetics. Basically, any brand name oil will be good. Just some better than others. Also, other factors can cause problems. When I lived in Tulsa, OK, I was in an Auto Parts store. A guy came in with an oil pan. It was filled with what looked like grease. I mean the whole sump. He said the rest of the engine was filled with it. Me and the counter guy just shrugged. Looking back, either water or coolant was getting in there, or he might not have been running a thermostat.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/basic-lubrication-design/ Also, there are different certs for oils. I think CL-4 and CK-4 for diesel. I think CL-4 is the older cert. I would not try diesel oils in something newer. Probably 2000. Also, I would be hesitant on the last few years of the Cherokee with the Pre Cats. NO real direct info on this though. Metallurgy and roller cams might also influence the non use of ZPPD.

I pulled the link from MeanLemon's site. The main reason Zinc is being phase out is the new emissions controls, or cats. It clogs them up. Not much of a problem on older vehicles. A bit harder to figure out how the new additives do in our engines.

This might be the link referred to: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rotella-worlds-first-ever-combined-hair-oil-foot-ointment-salad-dressing-188168/ As stated before, I am running the T6. I have no doubt that Delo is just as good or even a bit better. I do not have heat issues in IN. As least to the extent that others do. You also might look at Bob Is The Oil Guy website for Group 1-2-3 and Synthetic groups. Basically, Conventional oils are Group 3s (III). They are highly modified. Some synthetics (Castrol) are a higher grade of this. I have switched back a time or two from Synthetics to conventional, with no apparent issues. I do not know if this is a carry over from the early synthetics. You could not mix with conventional nor switch back. This was the 70's to early 80's. I am surprised with the low oil change mileage with synthetics. Still, I do not know the conditions being run. Also, with T6, Blackstone Labs posted results on three different engines. T6 was as good or better than all others. On the one engine though (Corvette) it was not listed. As has been pointed out, a high Zinc (ZZDP ??) content is desirable for flat tappet engines. I think 1100 ppm to 1300 ppm.

On my RENIX, I used to run 15W40 T4 Rotella. I have run 10W-30, 15W-40 Rotella in both of my XJs. I am presently running Rotella T6. Mine dose leak a bit though. I second the if it leaks, don't use synthetics. Conventionals have come a long way, though. I do run synthetics in my other vehicles, if they do not leak. I started with Castrol Syntech. It worked well. There was no sludge, basically looked new, when I had the valve cover off at 124K. I used Shaffer for a change, then Pennzoil Platium to 214K. That one did not use oil. I did use Mobil 1 ?W-50. It was to heavy of an oil for that engine. If using Synthetics, I'd keep the same grade year round. Although I am not in Alaska or such. I run at least 7K miles on synthetics. I have gone 12K on some changes. I use Wix, NAPA oil filters. They do make a filter for synthetics. I also run a larger filter. I have an '81 MB 240D. I do change to a thinner grade of oil about November 10W-30 Rotella. This is a starting issue. According to the manual, this is fine under 70F. Different vehicle though. I'm in IN.

I actually had my MJ registered as a 'car' and not a truck. I was given the choice. Truck plates are more. I think $3 at the time. Also, I think at the time, trucks did not have to wear safety belts. I was stopped twice, since I had car plates on a truck. The first time, I showed the registration and was let go. The next time, I was given a few days to get the correct plates. I was pulled over for speeding and given a warning. The officer did not want to go back to the sign. Other traffic was going just as fast.

Just bought a '15 Chevy Volt. When I test drove it, I came to a stop. I don't hear an engine running. I thought I had stalled it out. Doh, its electric. I did test drive a test vehicle with the start-stop on it. I don't remember it was me driving it. We came to a stop. The engine stopped. We were what to we do. Someone said, push on the accelerator. The vehicle moved through the intersection and started up. I have good days and bad days of parallel parking. Its a blue moon when I have to. Also, with trailers. Not good. I had a roommate, he was a Nebraska Farm boy. He said he could back up a trailer 100ft or more, not problem when he was 14 yrs old. He was away from the farm for a few months, couldn't do it.

My symptoms vary. Sometimes it works itself out. Other times, I do have to stop. It might happen on a large pothole or not. Other times it is a mere wave in the road.

I do have an upgraded Steering box spacer. Also, I put on a Logan's bumper. It has extended attachment plates. I will check the torque on the bolts. Yes, bunch of stuff to check. I'll look at the shocks. My thought on the motor mounts is more of a reaction or resultant. It starts out with DW, then there is a large mass flopping around. I am getting a banging sound. It is less with the front driveshaft removed. I plan to upgrade to the 'U' bolts on the u-joints, instead of the straps.

From the inside, mines worse than the video. Way worse. Sorry, at highway speeds, I'm not getting out and looking. Its very weird, sometimes its a big pothole etc. The other day it was more of a wave in the road. It drove on Monday probably 1 hour each way on the highway. No, real problems. Tuesday, I had 3-4 episodes. I did ask a neighbor(s). Jeep guy, deal mechanic. His was a busted steering box mount. I'll torque the steering box bolts. I am suspecting motor mounts. It gave me an excuse to order Brown Dogs. I did put in an after market trans mount. Unfortunately it was a bit higher than the stock mount. That and a 2-row radiator and aftermarket clutch fan, I had a hole in my radiator. I do have a MOPAR clutch fan coming.

I found one of the U-joints on the front drive shaft loose. I took off the front drive shaft. It drove better. Still, some DW, or whatever you want to call it. It seemed to be the u-joint was still in good shape. The straps might be the problem. I have seen some U-caps, that I might try. I also plan to put on a steering stabilizer shock.

No, your not exaggerating!! Some of the times that is what I am experiencing. Its much worse when there is a Semi on your back. I will say, some times it is not in the steering wheel. Other times it is. I'll wait till I get a cooler weekend. I might have the thing realigned by another shop. I am not running a steering stabilizer. I did order one last week.

Not sure if this would help. I have a 75 Bricklin. They can and do run HOT. I noticed heat coming through the trans tunnel. When I pulled the engine and trans, I painted the trans tunnel with ceramic paint. It seemed to help. I also, put some aluminum faced insulation on the firewall. Ceramic coated headers helped keep underhood temps down.

I drove it this morning. Had a few instances of DW. Felt it in the front. I also heard a grinding noise. Seemed in the front passenger side. Still, I went through some drive shafts some months back. Looks like I have my work cut out. I am wondering if the Transfer Case could be loose, and taking out the drive shafts. Its the only part not new or rebuilt. I did look at the axle shafts, but the passenger side seemed OK.

I just experienced Death Wobble again today. I hit a seam coming across a local bridge. I would say it was 1/4-1/3 less than before. I do have Yukon C-Clip eliminator kit on order, to get rid of the spacers. I do have a Ford 8.8 rear end with Limited Slip. I am wondering if this could be partially due to the LS.

I ran 31's with stock 3.55 ratio. It was a bit doggy. This is on a '98 XJ. I did regear 4.10s beginning this year. Much better. I am running about 2200 RPMs at 70 mph. I'd say 3.73 ratio for your 30s.

Ouch, When I had my lift installed , I bought used parts. The track bar bushing was actually slotted from use. I think the previous owner only off road about 5 times. The steering would jump a bit from side to side. Not really death wobble though.

What size of tires?

An update: I took a trip to WV this past week. Going around Cincy , I hit a few pot holes. I had to pull over and stop, so the shaking would stop a few times. It happened other times along the trip. Before coming back, I remembered I had not retorqed the spacers. I had a Ford 8.8 installed ,and WJ front brakes. Both required spaces as I am using 15 X 8 Canyon rims. The spacers were not loose, but some of the nuts needed about a 1/4 turn or so. I did not have any real issues on the return home except a few who might have wanted to test my Logans front bumper. That's the short story. Then there's saving a box turtle, which might have help me save my motor as there sprung a hole in my radiator. Blue Devil radiator stop leak to the rescue.

I looked into this for CNG. I remember '95 Cherokees had this option. It might have been Government contract vehicles. At the time in my area it did not make sense, as there were only two filling stations in IN. Both up in Indy. Also, the cost etc. didn't make sense. I did talk with one person at work who did this type of work. It might have made sense where there is oil production. The fire on top of the well heads is them burning off the natural gas.

Yes, I hear they are a bit better than the Trucklites. I went with a wiring harness and Cibies, w/H4 bulbs. Part of the decision was that I run in wintertime. Back to the '99. I think the '99 can be better than the '98 XJ. I do have a '98 XJ. I think some of the '99 came with a distributor and the latter intake. OP didn't mention trans type.

Trucklites and I forget the other one. $$$.

Had it aligned a few months back. They did balance the wheels. A lot of new parts. Basically, a new front end. The present rear leafs are only 2-3 years old. I will have to check the shackle bushings. I thought I had a new one put in. I do have OME springs to put in. Its more than a wiggle. I have not checked the shocks, but they are only 2-3 years old and Bilsteins. Edit: I did a search on the Net. One thread mentioned the pitman arm. I am at 4.5 lift on the front. I had a Rusty's track bar on it originally. I used a '95 GC pitman arm. About Christmas time, I had the front done with WJ Big Brakes and cross over steering. Also, used a Rusty's OTK track bar. Also, a Ford 8.8 was installed. So, I should probably check the drive shaft length. I did do a Hack-n_tap with a 8.25. Sorry to Hijack the OPs thread.

I am going through this. In my instance, I think it is the rear springs. I do not get the vibes through the steering though. I did squirt some oil in the rear leaf springs. This helped a bit. The set of rear leaf springs dose not have anti-friction pads.

I've been to Tony Packo's a handful of times. Used to go a Radio Control trade show. Neat place. Good food. When I went to the Dakota plant in Detroit, we ate at a similar place. It was done in a 50's neon style though.