SubSonic

Shoulda read MI, before reading further. That's an AWESOME find however, and I wish you luck... if it was Saggin' Bawls err Saginaw, TX... I'd have it done for ya tonight... I got a supplier that has new, in box, painted front bumpers (repro of course) for $45. But MI is just a little too far... :D

I used a semi-gloss (semi-matte) after I straightened my rear bumper, it looks OEM.

Mine was the same way... I took the panels off on the driver and passenger side, where the wiring feeds into the doors. I found the wiring in there, it was already long enough to run through to the doors for speakers.

Try well, well, over 200$ to park at UNT (TX)... and absolutely nowhere to park once you do. Watched vid.

I think it's a matter of choice. More importantly is actually changing it on time. I made it 300k running Pennzoil 10w-30 since the 93 XJ's birth, still ran like new, but it was changed every 5k. Then I rolled it. The end.

Alright, alright... your valve cover is too clean :yes:

Dude, it's the floor. :cheers: My mustang consists of fibreglass and JB-Weld, ground, scuffed, and undercoated, with some new metal here and there. As long as it's rigid and prevents further deterioration, you're golden. All in all looking good! Great, actually. By the way, your engine bay is too clean. :no:

Actually, the glove box and the gauge cluster can both be pulled as separate units and replaced as so, I have done them both. Cluster on my XJ and Glove Box (two bolts, found one in Junk Yard that my key fit ) on the Comanche. But you could be correct about the pad itself... Edit: disregard comment on glove box, I'm sure you mean the inside piece, and not the hinged door, in which yes, you are absolutely correct.

Can the dash pad be removed easily, or does it require greater disassembly of the entire dash. Mine has started cracking drastically in the past six months and I'd like to JB Weld and Upholster it, unless it's a real PITA to remove. If that's the case, I may as well replace with a new one. Out of curiosity, what does it take/what is the process for removal? Thanks!

Why do I like this? :headpop:

Take a picture! :D

The pedal should be the same for all MJs. The clutch isn't a big deal, but the AX-15 is a better transmission. Check brake/Clutch reservoirs, discs and pads. As far as the revving, it's probably sensor related. I'm sure someone will chime in and elaborate.

It goes there:

That's a nice meth lab you got there. :peek:

Left, Bottom of the flat surface of the JEEP imprint, I'll snap a pic of mine when I get home.

There is much to much photoshop going on in that picture... if it really does happen, what do you think it will really look like?

Most of the current aftermarket units are made of billet aluminum and are reasonably decent, so I think you should be ok in that aspect.

I assumed he was talking about the cable, but I think I may have just been reading too fast. That and I just replaced mine. Which was available for order at oreilly. However, are you talking about the assembly as in pedal?

The aftermarket part really isn't terribly expensive, why not just get a new one?

What brand of paint did you use on the green XJ (base/clear combo)? It looks great! Is it the same as the single stage on the hood or do you prefer a different brand when doing base and clear?

Hmm, when my Cherokee hinge broke I just welded it back again. :dunno:

Looks like you got yourself a project. ;) Good luck with it and of course keep us posted with progress. Oh, and is the bed at a slight angle down from the cab, or is that just the picture?

Sounds like it, and remember look farther than just the battery terminals. My bet is something is loose or frayed along the line.

:cheers: