89 MJ

Correct, the valves are not adjustable on the 258s. Does the computer control the timing too?

Looking very good!

Ok. Sounds like your oil light is caused by not having the sender in it. That’s a pretty easy fix.

The passenger side of the block near the oil filter is where the sender is. Pull that sender and verify with a mechanical gauge to know what your pressure actually is. How long did you run it for? The oil filter needs to fill up to build oil pressure, but that should only take a few seconds. What kind of oil did you use? These trucks called for 10W30 when new, make sure you used something at least that thick.

You’re welcome! Otherwise @krustyballer16 has some in the vendors section.

Make sure you get the brackets with them. They are under the bed and bolt to the frame. I bought a whole truck to get my roll bar.

Even if it needs some work, it’s not like it would be easy to find another.

Might want to talk to @Limeyjeeper about what he did with his LS swap. @Comanche SS and @ghetdjc320 might also have suggestions.

I’d say that is on the lower end of average. By my guess, I’d say the 500-800 range is probably average, depending on condition and location.

I really enjoyed that build and was sad to see it get passed on down the road. I get why though. And the tin Indian makes up for it

You’re probably right. It would be cool to see a build thread for this truck.

This was also 5 or 6 years ago before it was cool to restore these trucks. Or just as these trucks were getting recognition. The roll bar is definitely worth it.

I had a similar situation with mine. Eventually got cut up and thrown away. It wasn't a factory or dealer installed one, it as All Star brand, but still was an MJ one.

Where at in WI? I’m over near La Crosse. Looks like a pretty good truck!

It's been a while, but wasn't @neohic looking for one of these?

How does the tail light ground look? Do the bulb sockets look alright?

I’m curious to see what you come up with, I should do my door seals too. Could you get a generic one of similar design and then modify it so the door opening shape is correct?

He’s got an AX4, but otherwise yes. Finding a good slave will probably prove difficult, so the external slave for the AX4 and AX5 might be the best way to go.

I’d do a skim coat of rtv. No way am I trusting a gasket alone to take up 30 years worth of possible corrosion or warping on the block, nor am I trusting today’s manufacturing processes to give me a decent finish.

I’ll second checking out the slave cylinder. I bet that is starting to leak. If it looks dry, you should be able to bleed it again and that should cure it. But that fluid is definitely going somewhere. To make sure it isn’t the master leaking, just take a look at the paint underneath the master cylinder. Brake fluid will eat the paint, so it’ll be wrinkly if it’s leaking.

Probably since you found another the same color with the same code. That’s Chrysler reusing codes

Glad you got it taken care of and it sounds like you’ve got a good plan going forwards.

It usually takes a few days for the members that are able to run the VINs to see these. @jdog, @JMO413

I think the aftermarket sliding rear windows are superior to the OEM ones. The opening is larger, so you can enter through it if needed and it moves so much more air when going down the road with it open.

Ok. Did they load test it or just hook up a regular tester? I'd hate to say that there must be a draw somewhere in the system causing this issue and it turn out to be the battery. I think its worth going through and finishing up Cruiser's tips (maybe once it warms up a little). If this issue is only when its cold, maybe it is the MAT or CTS like eaglescout526 suggested in this thread: