89 MJ

I believe he is one of their employees. I think he sold that truck a year or so ago.

I think that this really depends on how you plan on using the truck. If the truck is going to stay stock and see minimal towing or hauling heavy loads, I think that the Peugeot will be fine. Now if you're a person that likes dumping the clutch on occasion or getting rubber when you shift or you plan on towing and hauling a lot with the truck, I'd swap to an AX-15. Having put a few thousand miles on both transmissions, I can tell you that the Peugeot feels like a car transmission and that the AX-15 feels like a truck transmission. The Peugeot is very smooth and I think it would be very fun in a weekend cruiser type of truck. I also don't think that I've ever heard of anyone blowing up a Peugeot either. I've heard they're weak, but in my years here, I don't recall seeing anyone post that they actually blew the trans up. The AX-15 is comparatively not very smooth. You cannot shift it quickly at all when its cold and it still is not a transmission that wants to be shifted quickly when it gets up to temp. All three of my AX-15 MJs were like this. That said, my truck is on bigger tires, has deeper gears, and a larger rear axle than stuck, plus it tows and hauls on occasion, so the AX-15 was the right way for me to go and I would do it again. Another thing to consider is the long term value. If you fix the truck and then decide to sell it down the road, I think keeping the Peugeot will actually hurt the value, even though it is the factory transmission. The AX-15, especially an external slave AX-15, will add value to the truck. Now if you do decide to swap in an AX-15, now is the time. I think its far easier to have the transmission connected to the engine and swing them in together than it is to pull the transmission under the truck. Keep in mind, the AX-15 had a different crossmember and the XJ and MJ AX-15s had difference transfer case clocking than the YJ and TJ ones. I believe that the external slave AX-15 came out in 1994 and that is the one that you really want. The new internal slave cylinders are prone to failure.

I hope not. The new one is just an expensive lifestyle pickup that doesn't seem useful as a Jeep or as a truck. My parents had a friend with one and sold it because it wasn't usable as a pickup and her family couldn't fit in it easily.

I like the old style better. I think it looks a lot nicer and more premium. To me, the newer front end and interior looks almost cheap.

Wow! Great find!

Looks good, reminds me of the high trim early year door panels.

Looks like a good starting point. I would recommend you go through all of Cruiser’s tips first. In the grand scheme of things, the HO engine really isn’t any better than the Renix. The cylinder head is better depending on the year, but that’s it.

That's what I'm thinking. It'll be a big project for sure, but probably worth doing it all now.

The pictures look like the seam is swelling near your left leg in one of the pictures, that why I said that.

Remember, the rust is going to be much worse on the inside, so cut out more than you think you need too. If the edges of the inside of the piece cut out are still rusty, you've got more cutting to do. If I were you, I'd be pulling the fuel and brake lines and the fuel tank for sure. It might even go as far as needing to remove the leaf spring mount and bed, hard to say until you get into it.

You could always add better axle shafts and stronger parts to the D35. At the very least, I would think you'd want the sensor out of it.

This might be worth the read.

It is likely just the factory distribution block. I do believe that they visually are very similar to the XJ ones, however the MJ one doesn’t actually determine the fluid that goes to the rear, that’s what the load sensing valve does. If the shop didn’t change it, you will probably need to.

I’d suspect that the lack of proper proportioning valve is the root cause of your problems. I believe one from an XJ is the go to swap.

Looks like you found what I was talking about. Does it match your brake lines in terms of aging and patina? Or could you ask the shop if they changed it?

This is correct and looks how it should. That hard line though on the frame side is interesting. The proportioning valve will be closer to the master cylinder and both front and rear brake lines will go into it.

Did the shop change the distribution block for a proportioning valve when they deleted the load sensing valve?

Did you change flywheels when you did the clutch? If not, I would just get a Luk stock replacement for a 1990 MJ if you have a Renix.

I can't say for sure whether you'd need the clutch or not. I would doubt that the either one comes with a clutch though. I wish I could be more help, but I went from a Peugeot to an external slave AX-15 and replaced all of the hydraulics and clutch at the same time, so I can't say what exactly actually NEEDS changing for your swap. I'll tag @Htchevyii as he has been through this before. I'll also link the video they did on their channel.

Shouldn't need a transfer case. You'll definitely need the bellhousing, clutch fork, throw out bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch line for sure. Probably more things that I'm not thinking of right now. I'd look into something like this: https://www.advanceadapters.com/4993?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19546564555&gbraid=0AAAAAD7cfhBqvj96u4j13cQJFlOR4rlF5&gclid=Cj0KCQjw18bEBhCBARIsAKuAFEZJHYG3uV8D148Y5nY8DA_pYdeT7CtFY5_uvGZCFq8TgbckdMdDX7kaAqMPEALw_wcB

I believe you can buy the external slave kit from one of the companies, maybe even both. That's probably the route I'd go for the same reason you mentioned.

That would be me. Thanks for the link

I think some people on here have used the Novak one and the Advance Adapters one. I don't recall hearing anything bad about either one. Going to swap to external slave while you're at it?

Everybody starts somewhere, you’ll learn more with time

Maybe the port or the REM would be more fitting for us