AZJeff

You need the FSM for a late-model XJ to help you identify connectors. There is a specific section that shows the "pin-outs" and shape of each connector. If you don't have a manual, I can burn a CD of mine and send it to you.

You are spot on about silicone's inability to take paint, and that is why I don't recommend it. I use the real deal, body seam sealer, but OP was looking for a "cheap fix", and silicone and body seam sealer are both relatively pricey, on the order of at least $6 or more for a tube. It looks like he found another solution.

THe down side of silicone is that it only sticks on VERY clean surfaces, completely free of rust. The upside is that, if it does stick, it's flexible and resistant to most chemicals.

OK, I gotta ask....WHY? What intrinsically makes any use of asphaltic sealers bad?

There are TWO types of locking systems used in "intertia type" seat belts, and I think people are confused by the difference. I will explain and call them "Type One" and "Type Two" 1. TYPE ONE seat belt retractors are designed to lock when the vehicle sees a sudden acceleration or deceleration. It uses a small weight inside the retractor that moves off center when it encounters such an acceleration/deceleration, be it front to back or side to side. If such an acceleration/deceleration is not seen, the retractor will allow belt extension/retraction no matter how fast one pulls on the belt. 2. TYPE TWO retractors lock when the belt is pulled rapidly from the spool on the retractor. These types of retractors will function independent of vehicle acceleration/deceleration. I "think" (but cannot be sure) that the Type Two retractors are considered obsolete, as they do not provide belt locking protection in anything but a forward collision deceleration. Recent production vehicles are all equipped with Type One retractors. I don't know when AMC/Chrysler started using Type One retractors on the XJ/MJ family.

Yes, it does stay tacky, at least for a few months. I purchased real body shop seam sealer and I paid about $12 for a standard sized caulk tube, as a point of reference.

How about some of that asphaltic stuff that comes in caulk tubes and is used to seal asphalt shingles on roofs? It tends to stay pliable for a fairly long time....

On my XJ, I welded the last 1" of the Ebrake lever from the drum brakes to the disc parking brake lever. This allows the drum brake cables to interface to the new brakes.

I purchased a set of bushings for a Ford pickup, and am modifying them to fit the MJ. We can compare notes when I am done.

Your oil pressure sender is defective, for sure. You might want to rent/borrow a real oil pressure gauge from th parts store to confirm actual pressures as a next step.

I would LOVE a set of bushings. My tailgate rattles like hell. I cannot believe there were no bushings from the factory. The metal on metal squeaks like all get out, and is constantly rusty. Also, the "double D" shaped lug on the bed suggests that something filled the space on the flats, and I am betting its some plastic piece.

I remember this sort of discussion on the XJ forums, with the same predictable schools of thought: Those who understand the purpose of anti-sway bars keep them installed and add disconnects if they see fit. Those who are ignorant of the devices' purpose rip them off, and claim they can compensate by driving differently. This group rarely will admit their mistake when calamity strikes. As others noted, If anti-sway bars were not a benefit, AMC/Chrysler would not have made them standard on all XJ/MJ front ends. Consider that before you join the second group I cited above.

The scoring in the cylindrical area inboard of the threads is where the inner race of the outer (smaller) wheel bearing would ride. If that area is chewed up enough to no longer align the bearing to be concentric with the centerline of the spindle, you are going to see shortened wheel bearing life and/or bearing overheating. THere is also a slim possibility that this spindle might suffer a catastrophic failure in this area due to uneven stresses being imposed on the part. That would make life real exciting if you were on the highway when it happened. (Please note--I am NOT saying this failure is probable, only that is POSSIBLE.) If it was my vehicle, I would be seeking a new spindle.

Wow. This is becoming a tough crowd here. I am waiting for the OP to explain, in more detail, exactly what he means and/or what really happened. Right now, we are all just yuking it up as to possible issues.

There are companies out there that will restore your dash padding and it's vinyl cover, but you must ship them the dash to have the work done. I don't know this for a fact, but I would bet it's not an inexpensive proposition, either. I guess it depends on how close to OEM you want the dash to appear when done. Do a search for "dash panel restoration" and you will find some links to such companies. As an alternative, if you are willing to practice on your dash, they make kits of materials that can repair/restore what you have. The key to the sucess will be in the guy doing the work, which I assume would be you. Here is one source of kits: https://www.polyvance.com/Repair-Cracked-Dashboard/

So the main issue is that most of the pumps people have chosen are of marginal quality/longevity. I am familiar with the old Ford scheme of two pumps in series, and that may be a factor in why that Ford external pump works well when used the way Ford intended, but not in other applilcations. I am sure there is a pump out there somewhere, but I would bet to be reliable, they are probably expensive.

Although not direcly part of the OP's issue and solution, I am curious why you made this statement. Are you suggesting that there are no suitable remotely mounted pumps that can do the job and survive?

I prefer the Hella "E code" headlamp housings with the H4 bulb in them. They feature a reflector pattern that has a low-beam cut-off angle to keep from blinding oncoming motorists. If your state isn't too picky about what headlight you run, you can upgrade from the "normal" 60/55watt halogen bulbs to the 100/90watt halogen bulbs. This setup is noticeably better than any stock headlamp, and yet isn't too pricey. You should be able to get a pair of these with the lower wattage bulbs for under $100. (LED lights are still too pricey for me.) I had these in my XJ, and am putting them in my MJ (with the appropriate wiring upgrades others have noted.)

Synthetic 10W30. Change oil and filter every 4500 miles. I live in an even HOTTER part of AZ, near Phoenix. The synthetics tolerate heat MUCH better than conventional oils, which is the main reason I use them.

I just learned a new term--"U-Nut" I always called them "Tinnerman nuts" or "clip nuts" When I was a design engineer working for a living, we used them all the time, and we bought a lot from the Tinnerman company. I guess it's a bit like Kleenex versus "tissues"

You can purchase a sealant specifically made for automotive body seams from Amazon or a larger auto parts store.

Amen to all of this. I bought a Comanche as a "project vehicle" for my retirement. I had owned several XJ's, but I always wanted a Comanche. Because of my XJ experience, I realized that a 30 year old vehicle is going to be in need of more than "just a little work" and I was mentally prepared in advance. I paid $6k for my MJ, which had new paint, a new(er) engine, a well-done lift, bed liner, and other well-done stuff. It was a pretty nice vehicle for being a 1989 model. In spite of that, I have dumped several thousand bucks into the machine redoing the brakes, redoing some electrical stuff, fixing some lubricant leaks, etc. And I have yet to tackle the need for new seats, carpet, and headliner. Now I am kind of picky about how my vehicle looks and operates, so my costs to repair/upgrade my MJ are probably higher than most owners would see, and I willing admit that others could be happy spending less to fix some issues I have enountered. The point is that any MJ that has been sitting around unused (off the road) for any length of time will need a thorough inspection and test drive(s) before taking the plunge to accomplish a long road trip. Nothing would suck more than to be 500 miles from home, on the side of the road, with a vehicle that needs a major repair to continue the journey.

Actually, my question is more about how the spare tire winch is actually operated. I don't have an original Owner's Manual for my MJ, so I am guessing on some of this stuff. There is some sort of handle that goes into the winch to raise/lower the spare. What does it look like, and where and how is it stored on the vehicle. I am guessing it's different that what was used on an XJ, correct?

My MJ is missing the sheet metal cover that goes over the lower front part of the bellhousing on the AW-4. I assume the part is called a "flywheel cover", but I cannot find any references to it when I search the internet by that term. Am I using the correct term? (And does anyone know where I can get one of these covers?)

If you are sleeving the frame rails already, then I think you will be good to go.