AZJeff

No, not yet. I have been debating this myself. Maybe when they "sniff" the unit (which is registered as a 1989), they will find it complies. The only thing stopping me right now is that the vehicle has no brakes, and I am waiting for parts to arrive to complete that task. Maybe I will take it to the emissions test station and see how it goes....

Thanks, "JeepDriver" and "Sinkrun" Those two details explain a lot that seemed a little unclear from the FSM. So it looks like I have all of the O2 sensors and wiring needed, along with the mini-cats. What I don't have is the "main" cat located downstream between the trans. mount and the muffler. I guess I have some shopping to do if I want to pass an emissions test.

A V6? A 2000 XJ never came with a V6, only the 4.0 in-line six. My FSM lists the following codes: P0143 (M) 1/3 O2 Sensor Shorted To Ground P0144 (M) 1/3 O2 Sensor Shorted To Voltage P0145 (M) 1/3 O2 Sensor Slow Response P0146 (M) 1/3 O2 Sensor Stays at Center Since they talk about O2 sensors 1/1 and 1/2, as well as 1/3, I thought it might be a sensor related to a third cat. I am still confused.

Nobody knows? Eagle, you are a wizard on XJ's as well as MJ's. Do you have any clue, or know anyone on other forums who would know?

My MJ has the engine from a 2000 XJ in it, and it has the California emissions system on it. I see two "mini-cats" just off the exhaust manifold, with pre and post cat O2 sensors. What I do not have is a second "main" cat converter further downstream. The FSM is contradictory here. It shows a main cat like all the "49 state Federal" in place along with the mini-cats, but the wiring diagrams do NOT show O2 sensors associated with the main cat., only with the mini-cats. So do the CA XJ's have three cats? If they do,does the main cat have any O2 sensors? i have to get the exhaust system right to pass emissions testing here in AZ.

Dumb idea---binding of slip yoke on the output shaft?

PERFECT. Thanks for the explanation.

Being a retired mechanical engineer, I found that little discussion really interesting, and it backs up the "rule of thumb" stuff we have all heard about U-bolts on leaf springs.

I am reading the interior on my MJ, and part of my planned improvements is the foil lined insulation matting glued to the inside of the roof above the headliner, and on the back wall of the cab behind the carpet panel. Most at of your added heat comes from solar input, and while tinting the windows helps, adding thermal insulation in the roof in particular is really key.

Thumbs up to Dzimm on this topic. He knows his stuff on this area, and helped sort out some fuel tank conversion issues for me.

I see listings for front calipers up to the 1989 model year, and another listing on parts sources for 1990 and beyond. what visual clues are there to ID the differences between the two variants of calipers, so I can know which version I need?

Here is a good way to check for throw-out bearing noise: when engine is running (and making the whirring noise you report), LIGHTLY apply force to the clutch pedal, just enough to load the throw-out beaing against the clutch pressure plate assembly. If the noise changes in tone or volume, then it's the throw-out bearing that is your problem.

Those cannot be legal for headlights in the US. Hasn't anyone pulled you over for that on the road?

+1000 If the crankcase vent system is restricted, the best gaskets and seals in the world won''t hold back the blowby pressure, even on a really good engine.

This is good suggestion if the engine isn't too sludgy from past maintenance negligence. In fact, if the driving is very light for those couple hundred miles, you might even bump the ratio up to 2 quarts of ATF to 4 quarts of new oil. Then drain the oil hot, and change the filter as well.

What brand of oil pressure sender did you use? Back when I haunted the XJ forums, it was the general consensus that certain sensors should ALWAYS be Chrysler OEM brand for the best results. (This was particularly true of the CPS.) I don't know if the oil pressure sender is that finicky, but some non-OEM sensors don't play well with the instrument panel, and maybe this is your problem.

First thing you need to do is download a Factory SErvice Manual for your MJ. It will help IMMENSELY with all the niggling issues that can be found on a 30 year old car. Several guys on the forum here have links to those manuals. That manual will help you track down the wiper issue. If it was my car, the first thing I would do is inspect and change ALL the fluids, unless they look brand new. Such a change will also give you ideas what other issues may be lurking when you inspect the old fluid during removal. A tune up would not be a bad idea either. New plugs, cap, wires, rotor, along with a new air filter (unless it's new) would be a good start for your new acquisition. Good luck, and fire away with questions. For the rust, the best long term fix is to cut out the bad part and weld in a repair. Lots of guys have to do this on floor pans, so a bed repair should be very similar.

Idle oil pressure of 60psi is pretty much impossible without some sort of non-OEM oil pump. What sort of oil pressure gauge is giving you those readings? You can run the engine with the valve cover off for a short time. It will splash oil around a bit (and need a pressure wash after the test), but you can also then use a stethescope to search for the noise more carefully.

That cylinder shaped thing below the relay---what is connected to it? I am betting some hoses, but where do they go?

Those connectors don't look to be Jeep OEM, so I am thinking it's some add on device. Where do the lines lead?

I would check to make sure you have good adapter fittings first of all, as others have suggested. About the only other way you could have high pressure is either a blockage or too much refrigerant oil. This may be important because evacuation does nothing to get rid of old refrigerant oil, and if you reused any old parts, who knows how much oil may be in those parts from the past. You said "brand new components", so I assume this means new condenser and accumulator. Those are important to a conversion, since the old R12 oil tends to settle in those two components. If you replaced those, then the R12 oil (no matter how much) isn't in the equation there.

DOH.....I HATE when I jump the gun and don't check which FSM I consult for the pic. Yup, I posted the pic from the 2000 XJ manual. Your pic is correct. Sorry.

Here is the belt diagram for the 4.0 with AC.

Do you have the factory wiring diagrams for your MJ? If not, that is probably the FIRST thing you need to get, as it will help you determine what is add-on versus what is stock (and possibly "repaired"). I hate digging into vehicles where people who don't know how to do proper wiring have been messing around.

The lowest pulley is the crankshaft. The one directly above it is the water pump. There is a weep hole on the bottom of the water pump "snout" that supports the shaft sticking out of the front of the pump. The weep hole allows leaking water to leave the pump and avoid instantaneous distruction of the shaft bearings. SIgns of weepage at that hole means it is new water pump time.