eaglescout526

Year would help us but if youre MJ has Renix, an idiot light cluster or a gauge cluster is all you get. HO its "digital" but only the speedo and tach are. HO XJ Gen II swap would yield you the cluster you want but you have to do a whole interior swap to 97-01. Both HO swaps require you to change the engine management. As far as the clusters being "good", clean the grounds and all the connections at both the sensors and cluster and it should read pretty accurately. Aftermarket sensors are known to be off about 10-20% in accuracy. Mopar still makes the oil sensor but not the temp.

2.5L just has a bottom bar support that holds the radiator from moving back and forth at the bottom.

I remember when I found a NOS radio delete plate. I think I sold it to someone on here.

I see it now haha. It’s camouflaged in. Oh I know what I’m thinking of for the logos, on the SJ, they got the full AMC Jeep. I think the XJ did not at all.

Wow. That’s a price for something you can get repop. Like I’d understand if it had the old Jeep logo in the mat but I don’t see that.

Ok just making sure. Didn’t know if you gave it the whole works while you were in there.

Ok. Now what about the clutch disc? Do you remember having the word “flywheel” face the flywheel when you were installing it?

Now when you swapped, you got all the parts for the HO right? Clutch disc is mounted correctly too right?

And now to rake in the dough. I mean give everyone good seals on hvac

Yes it was an 86 only thing along with the special winch adaptor that later was just the flat end of a tire iron. but this would do away with my ratchet strap on my MJ and be a bit more reliable.

I feel almost any bar will do. I believe 80’s and 90’s ford trucks had just a bar and that bar could be easy enough to use instead of making one but it’s also just a flat bar with some j-bolts. I’d love to find those wing nuts though. edit: found them. Lol.

Now with two more lights off!

The holes are still present on the long bed for the full size spare tire bar? I got a new piece of literature breaking down the MJ and stumbled upon this: Now understanding where and how it’s supposed to go on….I see a future where I’m putting this on my MJ.

Yes. It should jump the system regardless. If it does not, something else is preventing the system from working but it sounds like you have everything else but the pressure switch figured.

Always take it with you when ever you go to a car show and put it on your dash.

There should be a relay as well that could have failed. I once had an intermittent relay in my system that would go on like normal and fail when really hot.

Well damn. Ok I think I have a general idea as I had to make 86 vac set up with 87-90 set up minus the 2 ports on the TBI as two of them go to the crank case if I remember correctly.

Does your firewall still have the tag on it that shows the vac diagram?

Wild thought. Every vacuum line is routed correctly right? I can’t remember if the MAP is routed to the base of the throttle body or the port at cylinder 3/4 on the manifold. Nevermind it’s an 86. It’s obvious where it goes.

Lol that’s not terrible at all. I think we all shun but encourage everyone to hang on to parts. I took on the 2.5L parts roll and that’s what I mostly have. But I’m as stumped as you are with this issue. Now you said the ISA does work as in you have seen it move or heard it?

Hahahahaha I’ve already done that to myself. I think I’ve got two or three throttle bodies, I had 5 intake manifolds at one point and I believe I’m down to one or two now.

I have two spare ECUs if you want to test and see what’s going on.

Nope. That’s mostly why AMC preached that it should be the last thing to be replaced as it’s built pretty well and reliable. I have one ECU in my possession where the fuel circuit doesn’t work. I need to do more component testing as to why that is. The voltage regulator was replaced on it and it didn’t make a difference other than it could crank again.

Oh and im not asking you to test the sensors again, I’m just asking if they all got 5V when you did test them. If they didn’t then the ECU is at fault. I’m going off what AMC said in the books that the ECU should be the absolute last thing to replace when having these issues.

No that’s correct. I have seen the both as US and France manufacture. That ECU looks like it was made in 85. There should be a date code where it says made in USA. And yes it’s gonna be clean haha. It’s in the cab.