eaglescout526

Don’t get rid of it if it is factory. The yellow box will say AMC on it

Few things. Post your VIN in the registry and I will decode it for you. Second. The speedo cable plug is what you need to worry about for the different year clusters. It’s not hard to look up from under the dash and see clip or plug type cable Three if you have cruise there should be a yellow box under the dash. That control looks like a YJ style or another GM style stalk. And your speedo cable will have a rev counter or speed controller in between the two cables to split it.

Depends on the year. All 84-90 are plug and play. But the speedo plugs are different for 84-early 87 model years and 87 late-90.

If you do delete the EGR and tube hang on to them. Someone might want them as Renix 2.5L stuff is getting harder to find amongst the 4.0’s.

Renix has no check engine lights. So you can do that if you want. Take a look at the Differentials pumpkin and look at the part number tag that is bolted to it. It should have the ratio. Or jack it up and count how many times the drive shaft spins to complete one full rotation of the tires. Chances are it could be 4.10 gear. Or 4.56 but that was on autos.

Ah yes a fine selection. Sponsored by four wheeling with a trailer with a Yamaha in Moab.

It was neat except the sun and heat here dried it up into a nasty pile of trash and leather. So I don’t feel that bad.

Oh my god did I throw away an accessory?! I had something like that and tossed it shortly after I got my truck. Nice truck though! Welcome to the addiction.

I got you. No problem.

Any chance the bumper can be saved?

Alright. I’m curious. Is that a vent relocation and well, I can’t tell. It’s an AC control deck but i don't know where from. Looks GM. Care to tell?

*C1 TRIM STYLE C1 - CLOTH &&&& VINYL BENCH SEAT -SA Charcoal 155 Zone 55-Milwaukee 1AA U.S. Dealer Retail 25C Customer Preferred Package 25C 2TC Customer Preferred Package 2TC 3VN Customer Preferred Discount ALA SE Decor Group APA Monotone Paint BAP 75 Amp Alternator BCC Dual 730 Amp Maint Free Batteries BGA Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CBA Straight Back Bench Seat CKA Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CUM Mini Floor Console DBB All Manual Transmissions DDQ 5-Speed Manual Transmission DHN Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJH 230MM Front Axle DMM 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio DRJ 175MM Rear Axle ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine GAC Tinted Glass Windows GBB Tinted Windshield Glass GCB Front Door Tinted Glass GEH Fixed Door Vent Glass GFD Rear Sliding Window GRZ Left Remote Mirror GSZ Right Remote Control Mirror GTZ Manual Remote Mirrors HCD Do Not Use - See HCA JAY DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JCA 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JHA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJA Cigar Lighter K3Z STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KER KWR STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR LAP Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBC Glove Box Lamp LMA Halogen Headlamps MB1 Black Front Bumper MBJ Black Powder Coated Front Bumper MDA Front License Plate Bracket MFF Black Grille MHA Black Windshield Moldings MMC Rear Door Solid Window Insert MMG Belt Moldings MMK Lower Grille Surround-Painted Silver NAA Federal Emissions NBK EVAP Control System NF5 Fuel Tank - 23 Gallon PE4 COLORADO RED CC PRI PNT - HE4 QE4 COLORADO RED CC SEC PNT - HE4 RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAF AM/FM Cassette Radio RCD 4 Speakers SBA Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCG Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SFA Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGA Rear Shock Absorbers TBB Full Size Spare Tire TBM Tire Carrier Winch TRN P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires TZA Goodyear Brand Tires WJN 15" Aluminum Wheels WLZ All Aluminum Wheels XBS Pickup Box YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications YGE 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01 Rear Spring Group I Z5A GVW/Payload Rating Z65 Left Front Group XIV Z84 Right Front Spring Group XIII Build Date:9/10/91 Body Code:JL62

Those vents on the side where the covers used to be are worth snagging.

*ZZ TRIM STYLE ZZ - PLASTIC BUCKET SEAT -ZZ BAC 75 AMP ALTERNATOR BCQ Battery - 750 Amp Maintenance Free CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR DCK 4SPD MANUAL TRANS - AISIN SEIKI EPD ENGINE - 2.5L I4 TBI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GSC MIRROR - RIGHT BLACK HC0 All Vehicles W/O Air Cond HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach JFH TACHOMETER - MECH JGB Clock - Digital JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NMB ENGINE COOLING - STANDARD DUTY Build Date:9/4/85 Body Code:JL62

Theres plenty of parts there that need to be saved. Like the front grill pieces and that license plate bracket.

That’s awesome. This kit is missing it’s air lines but I’m sure those are just any off the shelf air line for air bags and such.

Chrysler still has a lot of the front end pieces still around if you want quality.

Honestly. I don't know how these would compare to the JK shocks I have. Definitely a neat kit.

Neat!

Depends on what you need. I recently listed some NOS MoPar front suspension parts that are available still.

Ok so that thermistor won’t work for you. You can splice it in. Course do you currently have an empty plug on the harness?

So. You want to add AC to an engine that is a raft in an ocean of 4.0's. Good on you. Found the parts? Lucky you. First you will need these parts: AC control deck w/ wiring harness(84-86 have a different style connector that plugs into the dash harness than the 87-90 harness. Getting the years the same is important here.) and vacuum harness, engine side wiring harness, condenser, compressor(make sure the pulley lines up and the wiring is right!), lines, alt/compressor mounting bracket(four metal pieces), new alt pulley(less that small gap), dryer and low pressure switch, R134A retrofit, serp/drive belt, coolant hoses, air box w/core, expansion valve(R134A kit), O-ring hose kit for R134a, time, patience and money.(This whole addon cost me the same amount as it did to buy the kit in 1988) Optional: Factory radiator and refresh of coolant. Once your pieces have been gathered you are ready! I could go into detail on tearing out your dash, but there is plenty of info on how to remove it. Just be aware of those pesky defrost vent screws(be prepared to spend some time on those). Defrost vent screw:(I did a rant on this) This is important, Renix guys, if you grab a 91+ box, you will need to modify it to accept the old style thermistor switch and will need to route the probe to the core. Feel free to use the old core. Engine side:(unplug the power!!) On the drivers side by the coolant reservoir or washer bottle will be this plug: This plug will be plugged off by a cap. Remove it to gain access to the harness. Your new relay and compressor harness should plug in like so: I mounted my relay by the air box/rad support like so (NOS dealer installed AC harness. These harnesses are too short to go across the engine bay to seat in the relay center, feel free to put it where ever) Brackets. Brackets will mount in old location like so:(You can reuse some bolts but not all. The back needs a long bolt and a washer to space the bracket, at least that's what I had to do. Parts diagram isn't clear on that.)Note; you will have to remove the compressor to check spark plug one, do any thing there first if you need to. Once that is set up you can then proceed to installing the compressor and alt. If you go reman for the compressor, be aware that you may have to splice in the clutch wiring to the harness. I recommend grabbing the old compressor if you can. At some point you will want to have your radiator pulled to attach the condenser to.(do not attach dryer!) You should then hit this point in your install:(pretty) Hopefully you have finished everything on the dash side at this point to have vacuum lines routed and are ready to route some hoses. Make sure you have replaced all the O-rings on your hoses with the R134a O-rings or at the very least replaced 30 year old O-rings(need to be AC approved). Now you can do two things here. One route your small constricting hose like such: Pass side of the rad and condenser is where this hose routes.(at least I found this to be the best work around for lack of stock images) This hose goes up and over to the top of the condenser but under the rad support and connects to the top of the dryer. Then it does down and clear of the belt up to the expansion valve Or you can pull a me and install the rad and condenser to set up all your other hoses like so:(by this point I was complete) Once you get this all set up and ready, this is where you will attach the dryer to the condenser and thread it into its appropriate hose on the condenser itself. Remove your grill and you will have all the free room to work at that level to install the dryer. Make sure you have installed the low pressure switch onto the dryer. Once that is done and your hoses are routed(Condenser to discharge(labeled on the compressor) and expansion valve to suction) and installed like such above, you are ready to wrap this project up! Took me a day to do. You will not be able to test it until the system is charged. With new hose and belt routing, make sure the belt is very tight(if it is loose it will make a pigs squeal seem calming) and that nothing will be in the way for the belt to destroy or itself on. Pass basic engine test with no leaks or hiccups move on to get it charged. Once you are ready to charge it, make sure all your connections are good and tight and have the system vac tested at your local dealer or a TRUSTED, lot of emphasis on trusted, AC shop. Make sure your compressor is filled with the required oil and proper amount and tell who ever does your charge to fill it with 2lbs of R134a.(Currently running such and is doing fine) Side note; if you go to a dealer, ask about Arctic Blast if they have it. It is supposed to help the system run colder. Its like an oil based substance. If I am forgetting something, which I am sure, let me know!

Ok. I did respond to your post in the DIY thread a while back. Do you happen to know the year that box came from? Do you also have the correct year harness for the AC head and all that? https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/thermostat-switch-xj-factory-ac-56002688 I would go check this switch out. It is for the 84-90 model years. If your harness has the same two prong as this, you will need that switch and youll have to modify the box like I did to route the switch's probe through the core.

Add the fred flintstone floor to your build sheet.

Sun roofs are not a factory option for the MJ's. Possible dealer option but no documentation. No problem. But a lot of pre 89 sheets are slightly inaccurate and reuse some newer codes