eaglescout526

No problem. In my sig is the body style decode pdf if you are curious as to what the letters mean.

VIN decodes it as a short bed as JMO posted. the body code would be JL62 if it was a long bed. Short beds are denoted by 61. Looks good!

Well yes. Those years are plug and play, there’s just the speedo discrepancy to be mindful of. And the tach for the earlier years isn’t adjustable so if you have the 2.5L and the cluster came from a 2.8 you can’t adjust it. I just don’t want anyone going and plugging and playing cluster swap and not having things work like they want it to. That’s all.

That's ok, if you guys think the ZJ pioneer thing is bad get a load of this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/91-92-93-94-95-AMC-JEEP-CHEROKEE-COMANCHE-XJ-MJ-TACHOMETER-DASH-GAUGE-CLUSTER/254532387907?hash=item3b43500443:g:k~AAAOSwLrNeYYCV Listed as 91-95 XJ but yet it has a analog speedo connection and it is for the 84-86 years.

Thank you Eagle!

Neat, could've swore in the catalog it said Canada only right off to the side. Course I don't have access to it so I can't confirm it. Still nonetheless neat and obviously a rare ZJ.

I don't know, kinda like it. Looks cleaner and less likely to tear and its readily available.

It is an exhaust hose. There is a vac switch right at the intake of the air box that shuts a door and allows the exhaust to send warm air into the intake rather than draw from the freezing cold air upon initial startup and warming of the engine.

You can add 84-90 clusters. From 84- early 87 they used the type one speedo connection that consisted of a clip on the speedo. Then there's the type two speedo from late 87-90 that only consisted of clipping on and being pinched for removal. XJ's and MJ's used the same style cluster. 84-86 had a type I tach that you can't adjust and the 87-90 had a type II adjustable tach. You will need to add oil and coolant sensors not sending units. Sending units is for what you have now dubbed the idiot light cluster.

No problem. I was about to post my thoughts on there but I only have what I said, just heat up the outside where the bushing sits and give em hell. There is a special tool designed to remove those bushings but they are stupid expensive.

Also looks like that dealer did their homework on the MJ. One thing from what they said bother me like "incorporating a bed onto the Cherokees unibody design was no easy feat". Yes that is true but it got its own special "Uniframe". Any ways here's their description. I will leave it to you guys to be the judge. RARE CLASSIC! This Comanche XLS is newly refinished in its original Medium Red Metallic color ZERO rust -solid panels. The special XLS cloth bucket seat interior has been restored to its original condition including carpeting and headliner. A tubular roll bar with off road lights has been added to the truck as well as custom alloy wheels and off road tires. Custom bumpers front and rear add to the appearance. The 1986 Jeep Comanche 4X4 was a pickup truck spinoff of AMC's popular Jeep Cherokee compact SUV. Impressive as an engineering achievement (incorporating a cargo bed into the Cherokee's unibody construction was no small feat). This Comanche has the 2.8 liter GM 60-Degree V6., 5-speed transmission with a shift on the fly Command Trac 4X4 set up. This truck has a CLEAN CARFAX 3 OWNER HISTORY.

I don't see anything wrong with the seats. I am pretty sure that's how some of the early bucket covers used to be.

I would be careful and only heat up the surrounding area and hammer out the whole bushing. If you plan to use poly bushings(not a smooth ride) then you will need to burn out the old rubber and slip in the poly. If you want to use OE style rubber bushings in the future, you'll have hell of a time fighting trying to get the old metal sleeves out that sat and seized in place for 30+ years.

No, later models might have that but the Renix era does not. The only idler pulley is the one right by the Alt. I remember going through something like this once, except I wasn't driving I was at home still. But my issue ended up being that nut at the bottom. If the whole pump assembly isn't free moving right now, then something still isn't loose. In order to tension the belt, all the bolts have to be loose and then the tensioner(the long bolt underneath the pump closest to the air box) can be tightened to increase tension on the belt. If still no movement you can always give the pump a love tap with a mallet(rubber).

Ok, so that is the typical AC-less set up for the 2.5L. Now you have three bolts for the PS pump loosened right? Two right behind the pulley and the other on the back? Then there should be the two down below the pump. One secures the adjuster in place and the other tighten or loosens the belt. If that bolt that secures the tensioner is still secured the pump won't move with it.

Nice score! Have fun with the clock, looks like someone butchered the harness. @Minuit, he is the one who does all the work with the Factory radios.

I see you found the post, I forgot it did get answered, but that's funny. If you do one of those plates, let me know cause that would be pretty cool to prance around with as the front plate, or even just a rear window sticker.

I thought it was a Canada only package? Couldve swore I read that somewhere. Alright.

Lol I like the Canadian only Grand Wagoneer ZJ that existed.

Couple questions. First is what are those things off to the side on the grill aimed at the head lights? There was a thread a while ago on talking about an old picture of a MJ in Europe and we all were curious on what those are. Second, did you MS paint "Renix" to cover your plate? Because it looks fitting.

Where he is going is the ZJ never had a "Pioneer" package or trim level.

Judging by his build date with the 4.0L he probably has the BA10/5. As far as gear ratio, there should be a metal tag on the diff cover with a PN and the ratio.

Recently I learned that I don't need to change the bell house to swap from an internal to external slave set up for the AX5. So I am in search of all the pieces related to the external clutch. I am not to sure if the newer stuff will work, I am just goin off of what the catalog showed me for the bell house I have. 25, 22, 24, 18, 19 are the pieces I am in search of. here's the coveted Clutch throwout lever:

Found it

I had some skyjacker shocks on and swapped those out. I used the bushings from those. There is a write up on using JK shocks in the DIY section. Let me go find it real quick.