eaglescout526

Sounds like the TB needs a bit of lubing. But glad its all normal.

How low is your idle? Mine sits between 900-1000 warm and AC on. So it probably would be best to have the AC off with the adjustment now that I think about it if both of your guy's trucks are equipped.

I have had good results using 50/50 of vinegar and water in a radiator to help clean out all the deposits and such. The factory radiator in mine is one I used the mixture on and the engine stays at 210*.

Yeah I think that is the absolute earliest I came across. Any others were august builds.

So to connect the tach, do you know the diagnostic ports on the pass fender? Covered by yellow covers? connect the tach wires to D1_(positive)1 and D1_3(negative). Once the tach is correctly wired in and reading the RPM, the truck will need to be at operating temp for best results. Once at temp stop the engine. Unplug the ISA as it should be fully extended after engine shut down. You will need some ear muffs for this as the engine screams. Watching your tach you will adjust the bolt on the ISA by the throttle plate. If I remember correctly, counter clock wise raises the idle and clock wise lowers it. Once at 3500 rpm + or - 200 you can shut off the engine and plug the ISA back in and then start it again to see if the idle has come down.

Chevy Avalanche much?

MS-1700!

I would do a voltage drop test. You said the battery is good and has 12v. I would test to see if the cable is sending 12V down the line to the starter relay.

My bad. Only the 2.5L’s got them. Since the 2.5L started out carbed they distinguished it by using the FI plate for those two years. 4.0 didn’t since it was released as MPFI.

Yes it was. 86 and 87 models got it and it was discontinued after that.

Lol no worries. Happy to have helped!

A lot of the trucks power comes originates at the starter relay with the fusible links. Has the battery cables been replaced?

How does the starter relay look? It is by the battery and relay center.

Well I would check the wires to each of the gauges prongs just in case someone over tightened the gauge if they got into it. I had a 3/4 fuel gauge go bad on me and I accidentally over tightened one of the screws and it broke a copper wire that connected the winding to the gauge. Just something to look for. I fixed it by soldering it back.

Desperation comes in many temps lol. But I haven't been to a junkyard out here in a few years. Only AMC salvage.

Have you removed the gas gauge from the cluster to see if theres any damage to any of the copper winding?

That's the hellwagon that Dennis and his blackmountain Jeep crew did.

Beautiful! Renix ECUs, never the first to go. Who would've thought that the injector Ωhmed to spec but still failed. Now we gotta see a build thread. I will admit, though a long brain teaser, it was fun to walk you through this. I myself learned a lot as well.

I know 500 MJ has some but they are in chrome. They are those pieces I mention every now and then for guys to save if they come across them.

Don't you mean 84-90? Also I did have some good luck with JB weld and some sanding with one of my markers. Still need to do the other.

So after about of month of rigorous research and diving into my vast library(more looking at the FSM) I found out that the clutch rebuild kits used to come with a grease for the rubber and outside shaft. The Crown rebuild kits fail to come with anything(shocker) because Crown auto. After searching for any properties between the grease and brake fluid I stumbled upon this: http://www.redrubbergrease.com/clutch-master-cylinder-repair-leak-or-failure-with-rebuild-kit.html I was skeptical of using this but figured, if it stops the leaking, I can live with it. So I got some and rebuilt the Nabco master I got and that one was in much better shape than my original master and the crown one was alright but it leaked ever slightly. So far so good, I can completely let up on the pedal and still have pressure behind the push of the pedal when shifting. Fluid still sits in the master and it isn't black from the rubber of the plunger, more of a red tint from the grease but it performs really well. So I think this mystery can be considered solved. Also performed an experiment with brake fluid and lithium grease and found the grease slows brake fluid travel when passing through it.

Does the CJ have an AMC 360?

Quick question. Does the truck shut off normally when you remove the key?

Hey, if I lived in the rust belt with yall, id be going to junkyards when I could. But all I got is AMC salvage and a lot of the good stuff is gone usually. And folks out here will drag a dead XJ from the junkyard and build it into something because rust free.

Wow. Two TD and one FI.