eaglescout526

You know, of all the battles I have fought with Chunk, it deiced to give me a break. I did the shackles and was surprised with how easy it was. I did both in less than an hour, found the bolts less than rusted and am happy with the bushings in the leafs enough to not change them right now. At some point I will but not now. Oh and the hood latch is failing, the tension spring for the actual latching mechanism disappeared again...so I made a new one for the time being. Since I have the week off, I will be attempting the power antenna install. Hopefully I dont run into a whole lot of issues, but it should be fun and absolutely be a rare option and will finish off the whole power package, minus the windows. Havent brought myself to change those out yet...

Just remove the lower dash to see everything is what I would to. The rod should be there. It’s held captive in the column by the lever attached to the stalk. So he couldn’t have thrown it out unless he tore the column apart that far to change the turn signal switch which he really shouldn’t have had to but it’s possible. Chances are it’s still there and just needs to be put back into the switch like in the pic. However you should be able to force the rod back a little to sneak it back into the switch. If you have to you can try pushing on the switch to help get the rod back into place.

@jdog

Check the rod on the left side of the column. There’s a rod that goes from the turn signal stalk down to the switch and that can come out of the switch when working on the console. I can’t believe I snapped this pic. But that rust colored rod is what pushes on your switch to engage the high beams

So the only unique thing to an 86 MJ sending unit is the size of the pump it can accept. Otherwise 86-92 long before fuel tanks are all the same. Now internally there is a baffle that separates the 16 and 23.5 gallon tank. Oh and the sending units is different but not my much. The length of the float arm is different. Somewhere around here I made a post about the fuel tanks and the sending units. Also the 18 and 23.5 gallon sending units are interchangeable between the two tank sizes but are completely different tanks. Hopefully that answers some questions.

Theyre pretty good actually. I didn’t have an issue with them. I’ve learned that working on the Eagle made me actually use SAE sockets and wrenches vs the metric when I’m working on the Jeeps. From what I remember, new hardware can be had. I know if you get bolts for a Dakota or possibly a wrangler that has the 2.5L, the washers are RTV or siliconed to the bolt which is pretty damn smart. I wish I saved the part number for them. I might have thinking about it.

Well what I was working on was the 258 4.2L which is carbureted, it was pretty easy to get off and was suspiciously easy to get back on too. If you can get all the bolts out, you can move it far enough back to clear the alignment dowels and remove the gasket and put a new one on if youre looking to do that easily.

Are ya looking for an opinion on the radio or how to put it in? i mean if it works, toss it in for that 80’s/90’s aftermarket goodness and look. Though if I was swapping that in I would look to make an adapter harness so I wouldn’t lose the original wiring. 84-86ish is packard connectors 87-89ish uses metri packs 89-96 uses the Jeep/Eagle/Chrysler connector.

Yeahhhh it can be. Well that sucks that you have to do a lot of work to convert it to a serp set up.

What’s weird is I ran into an issue similar on my XJ where the belt would squeal, loosen it, stopped but became too loose when it was hot. Then I learned I had to get strong and really make the belt tight to not squeal and be an issue. Sometimes you just gotta really crank down on those tensioners.

Not sure if many on here have done such. I know the 2.5L can be converted by simply changing all the pulleys. Maybe the S10 guys had better luck, if they kept the engine…

It’s officially ours!! Let the fun begin!

I’ve been hoarding them. I have a goal to learn how to rebuild them, such just happened yet.

These clocks are starting to get old. I’d suspect failures internally. Either the Crystal or a capacitor or resistor.

Hahaha I know. I knew Carter was gonna cause chaos and expect you to chime in. Though I suppose if I wait and build up some money I could just buy those wheels.

Huh. Interesting. You don’t really need the ballast resistor. It was put in place shortly in 88 to quiet down the fuel pump. But you can put it back if you’d like. Though since it’s running, I guess I wouldn’t question it. If you wanted you could always take a VOM and do a continuity test on the wires and see if they go to the fuel pump like I think.

Does the Jeep currently run? Looks like it’s for the fuel pump power and something happened between the ballast resistor and the fuel pump.

Covers first. Then those wheels haha. Baby steps.

i can’t see how many posts you have done but a minimum of 10 and the classifieds will open up. @Pete M, or I will look into why you can’t send messages.

Looking for a set of these: Condition isn’t a factor. Typically found on AMC and Jeeps from the 80’s.

I actually got it all buttoned up last night, did the finishing touches this morning and able to drive it to my folks for thanks giving. I appreciate the input yall! Now go spend time with your loved ones. Weather it’s a Jeep or family, go spend it!

Happy thanksgiving yall! Eagle is up and running so its gonna be a good one today.

I agree. Although what’s incredibly odd is I usually have to fight the lower bolts, but this time I didn’t. All threaded in just fine. Either this car likes me or I just got lucky.

actually I only sweared maybe twice. I was able to jam a big flat head in between 6 and it moved the space enough for me to get 5 bolt in. And then I was able to get 6 in. Time to eat and do the lowers…yay.

That’s what I thought. I didn’t know if anyone had a trick for doing this. I know it’s the same situation with the 2.5L. Patience and prying.