eaglescout526

Oh damn. How did this one slip by? I’ll work on them tonight.

Ya know, if ya think like AMC, you could probably use Jeep parts in the place of some Eagle parts.

Yes actually. I kinda forget how the slider assembly looks, it’s been a hot minute. Now let’s look at the big pic. Was the MJ running and driving prior to this? Has it sat for a while? Have you done any mods or improvements that would suddenly make the MJ not crank and run?

No problem. It does it to the gauges too but oddly enough I remember my idiot light cluster very well. Kinda miss it sometimes.

Actually it does come on during the “gauge test” when you crank the engine over. Not sure why it was done like this but when you crank the engine over the temp gauge/light circuit is grounded and serves as a test function for that and that alone. Battery nor oil get such a test.

Did we mention the possible misalignment of the ignition switch? IE you turn it to crank but instead it just turns everything in the cab on.

They’re just regular fuel injection hoses. You always could get one from your auto store and have them snip off a few inches of hose that fits either side.

Nope. Just classic ‘Jeep’ 5 spoke rims from the late 80’s-90’s. 15x7.

No problem Mitch! It looks like the tube is bent at what I can guess is a 3-5* angle

E2E Just shy of 60” T2B 22” from where it mounts to top bar. Bottom bar to top bar 13 3/4” It has a slight curve to it. About from end to middle of middle bar is about 30” on each side. Oh bottom of middle to top of middle is 14” so it comes up a little bit. from tip of actual hood to the end of the brush guard is 8 1/2”. Actual hood to guard itself is 7” TD looks about to be an 1 1/2”.

I’ll get you some measurements. I have a rear louver in the back to keep the sun off of me when driving home haha. Helps keep the cab cooler actually.

Just took an updated with a couple when I first installed the guard. I love this simple look. Is this the style you want measurements of though?

Probably should’ve tagged me in this to check the catalog. I’ll check in the morn at work.

Yeah make a post in the registry and I’ll try to get one today. If not I usually hit them all on the weekend now since I’m still technically down with my computer and have been using the wife’s.

Even 84-96 power 2-door is a rare combo too. Are you talking about the bezel on the door panel itself? If you are that part isn’t separately serviceable. You’d have to find a 2 door door panel to get the bezel from.

So lowering the column means removing the lower dash and the two retaining nuts that hold the supports for the column in place. And once the column is lowered you will see he switch is “on top” of the column. Those switches are notorious for having melted connectors and corrosion.

Ignition switch is actually on the top side of the column but you can only see it if you lower the column or crawl underneath and look up at the column. Does the starter relay have power anywhere?

I would suspect the fuse block suffered corrosion damage. You might have to pull the block out as far as you can and see what’s going on behind it. Or pull the suspected fuse out and see what the terminal looks like. It could be something simple that the terminal has fallen apart or no longer exists.

Is yours an automatic or a manual? If it’s a manual, suspect corrosion damage to some terminals or terminals that have failed. By chance, what other lights come on? Like cluster lights, side markers.

Yup. I’m gonna sell some more clocks off here soon.

Bump. Still after the older quartz clocks.

I can’t tell if this is a troll post or an actual plea for help…. Either way Jeeps from the AMC up until 96 just used a simple circuit for the indicator on the cluster. If the buckle wasn’t buckled the chime would go off until you either did so or about 10 seconds after putting the key in and into the run position. Now if you’re after the chime module it is either a black or blue box located on the left side of the fuse block closest to the e-brake lever.

I believe it. But this interior went straight from caramine red to crinkle chips. Luckily there’s two rear panels, not sure on the story on those sadly but I would bet my grandfather at least had some intentions to fix it. I told my wife the same thing. I knew exactly what I was getting in to with this car but she’s full on into getting this car on the road. And we went back to bandit today. I aired your the rear tires to a full 40psi, they’re holding for now. The car is also in the air as I wanted to get the front tires off. Also replaced the ignition cylinder with a GM one that came installed in Little Red back when I first got her, so it gets an OEM cylinder. Now I just have to reassemble the column. Engine still cranks good, makes good oil pressure too. About 50psi at cranking. That’s all we did today, slowly working on the barn to make it a good work space for both my car and my sisters.

What I want to know is what the hell is he already doing to his JT that requires him to swap out the rear axle? Did they(JT community)finally realize the JT isn’t that great and need something like a Dana 60?

Hahaha. I think there’s some in the brochures from 86 too. Honestly what’s odd is after having thin white walls on my tires, I kinda don’t like the all black look.