Smokeyyank

On my 92 PO was trying to swap out the dummy cluster but was never completed. I got it installed but honestly not a fan of the cut up full cluster with the auto to make it work. I'd like to keep "stock" look on it but don't like idiot lights. Found this local (not cheap $200) and was thinking about it. This is a digital speedo for 91-96 Thoughts?

Yep, this. Regardless of brand tire date would be my main driver for used tires.

I'll be running custom rear shafts because of the 35 spline. It's the front that I'm trying to sort out. Since I have to get custom shafts regardless I wasn't trying to find a certain bolt pattern. Was more so seeing what wheels I could get the cheapest and go from there.

I found these and a few others. https://venumwheel.com/products/gm-6x5-5-6x139-7-mm-to-ford-6x135-mm-black-hub-centric-wheel-adapters I was dabbling around some more and found I could use later f150 rotors and calipers that are the 6x135. I would just have to redrill the hubs and then fab/find a caliper bracket. That wouldn't be my first choice but would be the smartest. I'm going to keep looking around and see.

I think I know the answer, but want to get some opinions. This is part of my builder HP44 front axle. I found a great deal on some new bead locks (~$200each) but they are 6x135 bolt pattern. I've gathered a few parts for the front to run the chevy 6 spindle but that stock bolt pattern is 6x139.7. I'm wondering if I can just redrill the hubs and rotors or do I need to something else? Other though it just an adapter but not as keen on those.

Looks too "peachy" to me. Think either more of a yellow to brighten it or more tan to darken it.

I like Haydens https://www.haydenauto.com/en/marketing/transmission-coolers

I've always bypassed the rad entirely. I've never had a issue with temps. On my WJ I have a cooler that bypasses the rad, just got through sub zero temps in CO and it still would get up to 150-160* on normal drives. If you want to keep it plumbed through the rad run it on the return line. I'd also forgo a old used one and just buy a new one. You can either use AN connectors or just worm gears.

Welcome! Add the VIN to the registry. 91-92 MJ are very rare and being a eliminator short bed even more so. As for rust, key parts makes new floorboards (if they are rusted that bad). These tend to rot from the inside out so there is probably a lot more rust lurking but you won't know until you start diving in. Post pics and ask away!

That listing is back. No pics though. https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/brighton-cherokee-xj-bug-deflector-ii/7706053581.html

40's on those dinky axles is just silly.

There is one there, just not in the pic. Got hasty with pics and posting.

Thanks! I'd keep it the original Colorado red and get the pioneer graphics.

Kind of, it's screwed "in" to the carpet. Didn't want to drill through the floor.

I used this one. It's small enough to go behind the driver seat. https://soundstream.com/product/pn5-640d/ If you want to mount to the back board you should reinforce it if you're putting a big amp. For a smaller one probably be fine.

Update! But nothing exciting. I was going to get my emission test done and radiator completely crapped out on me. It was the original so after 30 years it did its job. Decided to covert to a open system. All in all pretty easy. One thing I decided to do was to retain the factory pressure bottle as my overflow. I had replaced it recently and didn't see the point in trying to put in a new one. So far all good.

I liked the WJ pump and Durango box in my XJ that had 33s. Was a huge improvement vs the stock. But the stock one was on its way out. To answer your question nothing wrong with stock for what youre describing. Only suggestion is a quality rebuild. I have a redhead in my WJ and will probably do that in the MJ when the time comes.

WJ arms are all the same really. I run crown ones on my WJ. They've held up fine. Would suggest against MOOG arms. At 31s I'd look at some adjustable ones.

Went ahead and ordered a new rad and some other bits. Took out the old stuff today. I belive rad is the original. Has a American motor sticker on top. It's in rough shape.

No ac and this is my 5spd one. @jdog yes it was the fins.

No it's not. Maybe a few inches from there

Since you have a closed system you have to burp it properly. Look through this

No pic but it's in upper driver side. Figured it hasn't been done in my 6 years of ownership and might as well overhaul it all.

So yesterday I went to get emissions done and right as I pull into the bay smoke and fluid spewing. So I park it let it cool off and then drove home. Driving home never got above 190 (I have a REM) no fluid spewing out, smoke or issues. I'm not surprised because when I was doing the headlight relay saw a pin hole in the rad so knew it was only a matter of time. So I'm at this point where I need a quick fix to at least get emissions done and then will do a proper repair. My questions is..... For the quick fix can I just JB weld the hole to at least get emissions done? Need to be done before the end of the month and unlikely I'll get the entire system replaced by then. Worst case I don't and pay a late reg fee. So if it's not worth the band aid fix I'm fine with waiting. For the new system I'd like to convert to a open one and do some other little items. Here's my current part list but open to suggestions/corrections. Rad: SPECTRA PREMIUM CU1193 Rad cap: MOTORAD ST13 Thermostat housing: MOTORAD CH5180 Thermostat: MOTORAD 7200195 Water pump: DAYCO DP589 (Do I need one for a renix or? This is for a HO) Coolant overflow: DORMAN 603305 Belt: CONTINENTAL 4061025 Anything else?