Smokeyyank

fun times!

Been tinkering past few days after the gremlins go to sleep. Got more of the front end cleaned up and parts removed. Took the 242 out and chopped off the exhaust. Started taking off some of the suspension stuff. Mocked up the IRO sliders to get an idea on fit. Hoping to get the gas tank dropped this weekend and yanking and chopping more off. I desperately need to step up my jack game......

Ditto, BF friday deal was good, but not good enough to get parts. Was my first and probably last time ordering from RS.

I called again, took a while but finally got a hold of someone, stuff is still on back order, best part is its now different things than the last time I called. Told them to just cancel the order. Went and got what I need from Barnes.

IT HAS BEGUN! Moved stuff around, drove enough to get too empty and parked it in the garage to tear it apart. Started taking apart the front end. Also got the hydroboost, but unit is bad so need to wait for another. Accumulator is toast. At least I figured it out now versus later. On the plus side was able to figure out WTF I'm doing so next unit I'll just blaze through...... Went with this rebuild kit, hindsight could have gone with the basic one but what ever. https://piratejack.net/2771004-hydro-boost-repair-kit/?srsltid=AfmBOorqdA2pwI-hVgZAG0D_PRirl5OtP3iEpHZ768XpeIuxr4J0AQcC First, cleaned it up with purple power and brake cleaner Then removed the master cylinder, fittings and few other things. Split the unit in two, basic rebuild is just he part from the bracket out. Full rebuild consists of needing to cut to brake pedal rod to get out the piston, but I'm forgoing that one. Replaced the little nuclear symbol thingy. Moved on to the accumulator, it felt loose so figured I'd repalced the o ring and also check it. Clamped it and got the snap ring out. Then the disappointment. Piston should be at the top of the canister and this indicates a failed accumulator. Even when I was looking for a unit went with Grade 8 low mileage west coast, but no luck.

Dude, same.....going on two months almost. Then other places lost stuff in transit.

Hey Chat, give me a picture of a jeep on 40s.....

MOOG is good depending where its made. Like mentioned above a lot of these companies have tiers. Depends on what youre looking for.

Appreciate it, I'm excited to get it done. Should be a great rig once finished.

I vote sell and finish the others. Having two solids runners is better than three projects.

They are chunky, went with new cast ones that have the 4th hole and are beefed up versus stock. Took a bit of searching because the Reids are nice but $$$ and these are pretty much the same but half the cost. I called Crane as they had some knuckles but they said it's not theirs and just rebrands. So then poking around saw plenty of knuckles that all look the same and a lot less. Although the eBay ones are different. These came from Partsmike along with everything else for the front. Couldn't beat the price they gave me and didn't have to spend hours searching for parts.

Digging around some more found these guys. https://www.soundgermanautomotive.com/pcs They sell a standalone TCU.

Spent today getting the knuckles put together. Got the studs and ball joints pressed in put on the high steer arms, need to order 2 more studs and get bolts since no clue where tf they went. More goodies showed up, got mid frame stiffners and going to run hydro bump stops up front also going to use a coil relocation to help the triple rate springs and move the axle forward a bit.

Happy new year! Making this the year to get this thing done! 7 years of part gathering finally coming together. Got a shop press, needed a few things done and its either paying out to @$$ for a shop to do it or driving half way across town to my buddies. So instead got a 12 ton on sale and started pressing out the atlas stuff. New input shaft and seal is in. Will get it all buttoned up over the weekend. Also planning to run a hydroboost, will be running the astro unit. Based on my research should give me plenty of pedal power over stock and be a bit smaller than stock set up. Planning to rebuild it myself. Looked at vanco but would be over 1k and so far I'm $125 in it. Just need the master cylinder (astro unit), lines and a prop valve for the rear should be able t keep it under $500. Hoping this weekend I'll pull the WJ in the garage and start taking it apart. Will start stripping it down, then yhe fun begins.

Appreciate the insight and I agree. Would rather LS swap then deal with a tranny. Who knows maybe in a few years it comes along.

So was over on jeepforum and someone is trying to do things for 8 speed swaps. Wasn't sure if anyone has heard of them, but I had not. After going through the thread seems like a silly option versus whats out there but wondering what others thoughts are. https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/8hp-swap-kits-for-5-2-5-9-and-4-0-jeeps.4504490/

Just piggy backing off this. I did a bunch of research lately as I'm going to run hydroboost on my WJ build. I'm going to DIY my setup. Vanoc is nice but $$$, few other places offer "universal kits" but still a pretty penny. I just picked up a Astro booster, and a rebuild kit for about $120. I will be using the astro stock master cylinder with it and brake prop valve for the rear. Went with the Astro because of simplicity and size. Smaller than the 2500 units and little easier to mount. Pressure wise doesn't put as much as the 2500 units but still way more than stock. I kept the Astro master cylinder for it as I didn't want to have to modify the pushrod for the corvette one to work. Plus I'm going to quickly lose space under the hood so any space saving will be a plus. Downside of the astro booster is plastic reservoir, they sit a little higher and line ports are on the opposite side, but I want to be able to swap a unit if needed with minimal modifications. I will also be running a fluid cooler and dual return reservoir along with the A/N fittings for the high pressure line. I have to account for my hyrdo fan but figure as long as I keep fluid cool pump should stay happy.

Got some new rubbers. Going to be running Kenda Klever MTs. Did a bunch research trying to figure out tires and landed on these. Absolutely haved loved the falken wildpeak AT3ws Ive been running but the Kendas at the price point made it hard to pass up. Also decided to move over to a more aggressive tire versus a AT.

Started working on the shifter assembly for the atlas. I'll give credit to AA for this phenomenal piece of engineering but they can kiss the fattest part of my @$$ for installation instructions. Spent more time guessing where things should go than anything but keeps things interesting I guess. Put in the new rear flange as well. Once new input shaft is in will be a WJ happy swap. These are what I get, crap low res photos for an assembly that isn't the same. Not only for a single lever but the bushing isn't even there, some wonky washer that is supposed to be used. First try....nope not right After lot's of guessing and parts that are not listed in the instructions but needed I figured it out.

That's clucking nuts. Was listed on eBay for 50k last year. Not sure what the 35k price increase is for. Other than wheels, tires and a sticker looks the same.

Can confirm.....every freaking time. Becomes a code red when they start dosing.

More little things, add a drain plug to the 9. It has a full truss system that basically covers it all. So while it seems dumb that it would be exposed there's a 1/4 skid the goes below that is fully integrated with the rest if the truss. Added the bulkhead for ARB in the front. Gonna be tight with the jana54 but it'll fit. Fiddled with the atlas some more and got the old input shaft out. Now just need to press in the new stuff and put it back together.