Smokeyyank

Guilty......

Good wire is expensive but install kits are a money maker, hence why they are expensive. Low R&D cost big mark up. Sell speakers and amps cheap up charge the install. Unless you're doing a competition system or a huge audiophile head some of the things get to be a waste IMHO. I used these guys after a few recommendations for speakers wire and install stuff. Good price great product. https://www.knukonceptz.com/product/kolossus-complete-4-gauge-4-channel-amplifier-installation-kit/

In my MJ I have kenwood excellon BT deck, 5 ch amp 8" sub and kicker speakers. Sounds good for what I want. Desperately need to sound deaden it. This amp, https://soundstream.com/products/pn5-640d Speakers front, 6.5 rears but same series. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC54/Kicker-46CSC54.html

Thing is sweet! https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1000239435279041/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A2db30ff7-3ef8-4af5-87df-c1de77ff19a6

Been busy with summer stuff so haven't done a lot. Slow work but got lots to learn. Been grinding the housing for the jana kit. I'll be having some else do the gears but figured I can at least grind the housing. There's three main parts to grind. The opening needs two small notches to fit the ring gear in, it's tight. Then have to grind the pinon bearning area for the special bearing that has a step to allow the new pinion depth. Lastly, have to grind around the bearing for the slinger. New slinger has a slight concave so have to grind some more to allow it to spin freely. Still got a ways to go.

2.5 2wd isn't desirable so at that price you'll be waiting especially if you aren't in a populous area. Probably closer to 3-4 IMHO

Just WTF.....

Just checked this out and realized it's my old co worker.

Dig it, first Jeep I had was a 75 CJ7 my dad and I built.

Got the other inner C out today. Worked on the rear some more and cleaned it up and tacked the backtruss on to look at some fitment things. Pulled out the dana 50 ring. Will start working g on getting that fitted here soon.

More little things. Barely tacked the front truss together to work on fitment. Needs some small tweaks but its just about done cutting and fitting. I was working on the other inner C but broke my BFH. Last prep part after the C and truss will be the pinion bearning. Need to make it slighty bigger for the jana54 bearings.

Got one of the Cs off and tested fitted the new one. Still need to get the other off and grind the housing for the Jana54 kit. Then front will at least be prepped. Rear is cleaned up and ready. Will work on fitting the truss and test fit the brakes, etc then more waiting.

Solved! Kind of, found out Currie has blank explorer rotors drilled to the bolt pattern so now all pretty. Will keep the redrilled rotors as back ups.

Brown santa dropping off more fun. Got the axle shafts from dutchman, 35 spline 4130, also found out Currie has explorer brake rotors drilled to 6x5.5 from blanks. Perfect fit! Old vs new

Cleaned up the axles some more and test fitted the rear truss.

Starting to make moves on this thing. Spending waaaayyyy too much money and one thing lead to another. At the point now I'm about ready to throw in on jack stands on let the mayhem begin very soon. Started cleaning up axles chopping old stuff on to test fit trusses and rotate the inner cs. Prayed to the jeep gods in a multitude of swear words and was rewarded. Got a brand new atlas albeit set up for a XJ, I know I'll need to swap out the input shaft, shifters and yokes but couldn't pass it up for the price. Really wanted to keep the 242HD but with tom woods no longer making a SYE for only option was a built 242j and cost was more than than the atlas was. Never done a build of this magnitude. Done basic stuff but this is a whole new world.

Diesel https://www.facebook.com/groups/ColoradoJeepPartsTrader/permalink/3948469272061253/?sale_post_id=3948469272061253&mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v 1986 Jeep Comanche Turbo Diesel $13K OBO Manual Transmission 4 Wheel Drive Insured with Hagerty via appraisal for $15K. (See Pics in comments). I am the 4th owner of this vehicle (Carfax in pics in comments) It was a municipality vehicle out east and never got used much. Sold in 2001 from state at auction, Mileage 80K in 2000, Sold in 2006 to the old man I bought it from, who put 2K on it and parked it. ODO is NOT accurate and shows under 1000 miles. Knowing that the years 2000-2006 are really unknown, I believe this truck has “approx.” 120k-140K on the clock. Sold to me in 2022, and been working on it ever since. CLEANEST ROCKERS/BED/ I’VE EVER SEEN!!!!! They had several, and the “better” doors and bed from this one were swapped to another truck. Brand new BFG AT/KO’s (all 5). JEEP OE Bed Liner Rubber Mat. Slider Works WITH LATCH. Still has front plastic under the bumper! Bed undamaged! Has factory tow wire kit never installed Great Bench Seat/slides well/ Vinyl visors are perfect/ Headliner is damn good. Eventually it was auctioned, and sold locally once, then an old mountain man in Colorado bought it, drove it back to CO, and the engine locked up/seized 50 miles from home on the 2000 mi journey. It sat in his barn for 20 years until I drove by and saw it sitting there while it was open and rolled out for spring cleaning and stopped by. My wife let me buy it ! 2.1 Turbo Diesel. Rebuilt Engine, Injection Pump, and Turbocharger. No Leaks. New fuel filter heater (big deal/ LAST NEW ONE from France! Not cheap!) Finding the engine was difficult. The Winnebago Lesharo RV’s used this engine (with a K04) as well and eastern Canada is popular with them (French… go figure). I found someone who had the engine/injection pump/ turbo on theirs rebuilt. Spend $13K. And then.. They wrecked it. It still ran and drove fine, but the RV body was damaged. I purchased the entire drivetrain. (Drove 44 hours each way to go get it (great wife) I own Saul’s Autotek in Denver (22 bay shop 365 service), and had my ASE master techs do the engine R&R in house. Uses K04 instead of factory K03. I had China custom make me a boost hose specifically to do this. The truck comes with all 10 of them I had made (minimum order/ $1000). TOOK A YEAR! (And a spare starter, radiator, and 2 timing belts, oil filter, fuel filter. (hard to find stateside)) Mechanically sound. New Clutch and Hydraulics. Rebuilt OE Metal Radiator. Transmission and Transfercase seals. Pinion and Wheel/Axle Seals front and rear. The interior needs a few pieces. Have a detailed list for those curious. NO chassis rust. Colorado High Alpine Desert for most of its life. Some surface rust from time/exposure. See pictures. Has new aftermarket tail lamps. Runs/ Drives/ Starts/ Steers/ Stops/ Etc. Perfect. I tried to get the best pictures possible. If you have any questions please reach out. The wife spent lots of time detailing inside! It’s nice! Originally planned to do body work/ interior details/ as I was prepping it for a friend who’s a collector. Unfortunately he recently found out he is ill, and he isn’t taking on more vehicles (he has 800! Seriously!). I have my own (2) comanches, and (1) XJ, and I can’t afford to keep this one in the stable. I have more pics! The BAD The alternator is binding right now/ needs replaced or overhauled. Runs/ drives great just not charging. But it's a mechanical diesel! So you can drive it anyway! Gauges currently not working ^see above line ^ No radio, No rear bumper., Passenger door has needs door pins Some small damages (see pics) (Fender/pass door contact, dash crunchy spot, column small broken spot, etc) Like any vehicle if this ago would have.

I did do a bunch of research after your first comment and you're right. A lot of it is just my perception along with parts availability. These axles are going in my WJ as an family adventure build. So trying to build it as something that is overbuilt (in some regards) but also able to drop in to to a parts store when on the road and grab what I need if needed. I didn't know these would be redrilled when I got them should have done more research. Thought they had a OEM option that supported a 6x5.5. Found this article that provided some good info. https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/safety-redrilled-lug-pattern-brake-rotors-3044626/ Really my biggest worry is the wheel falling off or losing brakes on a downhill. Which probably less than a 0% chance of ever happening because of two rear rotors, but always the inherent rish Appreciate the input.

New rotors came in with the correct size but still have the one overlap. I called quickperformance and they are stating they run these rotors on 2000hp Mud trucks with no issues. Of the places I've worked with so far, they've been the least helpful, cheap but kind of useless. I'm still not convinced this is the best solution. I did reach out to moser and they can do a fill and drill for about 100 for both rotors but they need their machinist to confirm they could. I was also looking at Curries website and they say they have explorer rotors that can be drilled to 6x5.5 but they are closed so can't confirm if it's a blank that's drilled or a redrill like above. Did some snooping around stock parts to see if anything would work and closest I came was a rear rotor from a 90-95 pathfinder. Everything is super close with the biggest discrepancy being the parking brake shows are about 10mm difference. So would have to grind down brake show to make it fit which I'm not a fan of. So will see if moser or currie can work otherwise just take the L and go with a weld on kit and chevy calipers and rotors.

Stock refresh and a regear. More umph and reliable.

I'd keep it stock.

I'll take a look and see. Appreciate the info.

Appreciate the info. Tricky part is these are the explorer rotors with an internal parking brake so the hat is the issue. After looking at them more they have to go back regardless because the new lug size is wrong. Ordered 1/2 and got 5/8. Played around with a wheel spacer I randomly had and there is going to be one that overlaps. So may just go with Eldorado calipers and 6x5.5 rotors.

Cool, appreciate the info. Yes it's for a 5x5.5 and 6x5.5.