Smokeyyank

Scope creep sucks. It's hard to get around especially on things that aren't really "needed". Tough to find the motivation sometimes to accomplish things and if you got a pile of parts and project even tougher. For me personally I'm a huge fan of list and laying out all the main categories, then putting in subsets for those. From there dabble in finding things that might relate or kind of go together. So it keeps projects kind of together and a little less daunting. When you write down all the things you start to see how much has to be done and it gets discouraging, but putting those in subcategory's make it look like les . I've also learned that it's best to have all your parts prior to tearing stuff apart because that is how projects stay unfinished. Nothing worse than just kamikazeing into a project only to realize it's more work than you where ready for or not enough money to finish. Try to focus on some smaller projects to build some motivation, than maybe another project that's more fun but not needed, like new stereo versus replacing a brake booster.

Just WTF...

He's a little "high" on that price. Probably closer to 10-12k IMHO. Nice truck but just not a 25k nice one.

It should work, only other thing to consider is making sure what ever it's mounted to is secure so it doesn't rattle.

I won't ever do anything to my mj engine wise other than a rebuild when it comes, but I am building my WJ. It already has the 4.7HO V8 and I'll be running 37s with 4.88. I didn't want to go deeper because I still want to drive it on the road with out rapping at 2500 doing 70. Plus it has plenty of power to start. If I had the 4.0 Id either sell it for a v8 to LS swap. 4.0s just a turd in a WJ. Great in a XJ/MJ though. IMHO I'd go off tire size. If you're staying 35s max, I'd go with deeper gearing with a 4.0 rebuild (money aside LS without a doubt). I wouldn't do a stroker or boosted. If you're 37s+ LS swap.

Made it to CO to be flipped for 4200...... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/391640483455208/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A5c3e79e7-6a6e-48cb-8e58-4e3b4afa1208

Thank everyone!

Good to know. Any ones that are more difficult to install?

Bringing this back up. Need to replace all the seals on my 92. Saw a few things in searching. Would the precision kit above be the go to or?

Great, thanks for the info everyone!

My mistake this is a digital one.

On my 92 PO was trying to swap out the dummy cluster but was never completed. I got it installed but honestly not a fan of the cut up full cluster with the auto to make it work. I'd like to keep "stock" look on it but don't like idiot lights. Found this local (not cheap $200) and was thinking about it. This is a digital speedo for 91-96 Thoughts?

Yep, this. Regardless of brand tire date would be my main driver for used tires.

I'll be running custom rear shafts because of the 35 spline. It's the front that I'm trying to sort out. Since I have to get custom shafts regardless I wasn't trying to find a certain bolt pattern. Was more so seeing what wheels I could get the cheapest and go from there.

I found these and a few others. https://venumwheel.com/products/gm-6x5-5-6x139-7-mm-to-ford-6x135-mm-black-hub-centric-wheel-adapters I was dabbling around some more and found I could use later f150 rotors and calipers that are the 6x135. I would just have to redrill the hubs and then fab/find a caliper bracket. That wouldn't be my first choice but would be the smartest. I'm going to keep looking around and see.

I think I know the answer, but want to get some opinions. This is part of my builder HP44 front axle. I found a great deal on some new bead locks (~$200each) but they are 6x135 bolt pattern. I've gathered a few parts for the front to run the chevy 6 spindle but that stock bolt pattern is 6x139.7. I'm wondering if I can just redrill the hubs and rotors or do I need to something else? Other though it just an adapter but not as keen on those.

Looks too "peachy" to me. Think either more of a yellow to brighten it or more tan to darken it.

I like Haydens https://www.haydenauto.com/en/marketing/transmission-coolers

I've always bypassed the rad entirely. I've never had a issue with temps. On my WJ I have a cooler that bypasses the rad, just got through sub zero temps in CO and it still would get up to 150-160* on normal drives. If you want to keep it plumbed through the rad run it on the return line. I'd also forgo a old used one and just buy a new one. You can either use AN connectors or just worm gears.

Welcome! Add the VIN to the registry. 91-92 MJ are very rare and being a eliminator short bed even more so. As for rust, key parts makes new floorboards (if they are rusted that bad). These tend to rot from the inside out so there is probably a lot more rust lurking but you won't know until you start diving in. Post pics and ask away!

That listing is back. No pics though. https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/brighton-cherokee-xj-bug-deflector-ii/7706053581.html

40's on those dinky axles is just silly.