Smokeyyank

Assuming you already have a deck that can support a system, if not you need to start there. You just need something that has RCA pre outs to run amps. I'd suggest getting a deck that can support subs and a speaker amp, but depends how loud you want it. Could get away with a sub amp only but will need to adjust your eq so you just don't hear bass. I have a 5ch amp with a 8" and it does well. Doesn't rattle any fillings loose but keeps enough for what I want. This is the deck I run. I like it, it's a BT only so enough space to run everything. https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/kmm-x704/ That alpine is a powered sub. Should just need power, ground, remote turn on and RCAs. Amp is built in. If it doesn't work than you can use one of those amps. looking at the kicker there is a 2 ch (sub) and 4 ch (speakers). Alpine looks to be a solo and others can't tell. As for the sub simple way to put it is if you want better sign go with a 4ohm louder 2 ohm. Obviously dual voice coils and others things can change a lot but that's the simple way. If space is your concern look at a 5ch amp I have this amp https://soundstream.com/product/pn5-640d/ Wiring is easy, not a lot to it. Just buy quality OFC wire. I used these guys. For the money great stuff https://www.knukonceptz.com/

Out in the beehive state (UT) for a football tournament. Stopped at the Beer bar, because why wouldn't you, sipped a few tasty brews. First was a New Zealand style pils from storm breaker, pretty good, not the best Ive had. Other was a czech style pilsner from bohemian which I thought was exceptional.

Good grief 181k?! F that. For that amount I'm saving 20k and getting this. https://expeditionmeister.com/expedition-trucks/stewart-and-stevenson/lmtv-m1079-fully-built-out-overland-truck-i321

I dig them. Saw one recently that someone lifted and did some work on. Used axles from a XJ and was running 33s.

eBay or online tire shops have been what I use. I either have the issue of the local places can't/won't get what I want or won't price match. Only issue I've run into is getting them mounted, some places flat out refuse to put on tire you don't purchase from them or charge a crazy amount. Les schwab once wanted to charge me 60 a tire to mount and balance because I didn't buy tires from them. Discount just charges more but they've been my goto for most things it a local tire shop if discount is being difficult.

Had saw that done before. This set I wasn't planning on spending a lot of coin on. Other than sanding paper and some of the special conditioning tools just been my time to clean these up. Mainly was just trying to bring these back to life either polishing or painting. The other set I have is in a lot better shape and those I'll probably powder coat.

Cool, thanks for the input. May just polish this set and powder coat the other set. This set is rough so they have to get sanded down.

Have a spare set of turbines that I'm messing around with. I decided to polish one of the wheels. This was the "test" wheel that's almost done but needs paint and to be redone to get the mirror finish. Wanted to do one quick and see if I like the look. Not sure if I'm sold on the polished look for them or not. Thoughts?

I know the gasket you are 100% at the mercy of used. No one makes them. Not sure on the felt. I feel like someone recently used a DIY type kit, but few beers deep rambling about jeep things so I might be making that up.

I used the Meguiars foam ball (same concept) and tossed to the side it after a wheel. All the little nocks and crannies tore it up on my wheels Ended up picking up this https://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-aluminum-polishing-kit-98707.html And it worked a lot better. You'd probably be good with that though.

Thanks, first set was a trial. I think they came out good. Excited to see the turbines done. Something like this might work. https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_402_16-Restorer-Protectant/dp/B00FALVXEQ/ref=asc_df_B00FALVXEQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312061076118&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5421729397483677360&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028756&hvtargid=pla-406164510953&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62430536632&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312061076118&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5421729397483677360&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028756&hvtargid=pla-406164510953

I'm definitely interested, need at least 4 possibly 8.

I think you're right, they look chrome verses a machined/painted face.

If you are talking about polishing wheels to a mirror type finish it's not too bad to do it your self. Lots of time and sandpaper but thats about it. I completely refinished a set of wheels for my daily and am polishing up some turbines as well. The turbine below are a comparison of just cleaned vs 280 grit IIRC. They'll eventually get worked to a mirror polish on top and wheel paint the rest. Just been lazy to finish. To get a mirror finish start with a low grit and build up to higher grit before polish. On the ones I finished 2000 was the last grit I used both dry and wet polish. If you just need to remove corrosion it will depend if the clear or whatever was used to seal it is peeling. If its not peeling bad you can use some of the wheel polish compunds to bring them back. If its bad and peeling no easy way other than stripping them down and polishing them back up.

Yep, only difference was variok or open. It was either swapped or a 4.0 with a 35.

Someone way smarter than me probably had a better answer, but basically yes. I know you'll want fine strand cable because it's a B to bend if not, proper connectors and that's basically it.

Aluminum housing. Mainly ZJ and WJ v8, and the vette as mentioned. My WJ has one, does fine for what I need. Eventually swapping in a 9.

You're right was thinking the WJ.

It's too wide and yes you have to cut off the brackets and weld new ones on.

Here ya go, let me know if you need something else.

You'll need to run longer wires obviously which can get expensive. If you don't need the space in the bay I'd just swap in a odyssey if you want a fancy battery. Probably cheaper than wire too.

Glad this got picked up by some one who appreciates the comanche. Going to be awesome.

Correct, sub is ran off the 5th 200w channel. Could do dual amps if you wanted but I didn't see a lot of need for the size of the cab to need that much power. I wanted more than what the head unit would pump out. When I crank it its noticeably loud. In my WJ I run one of these with speakers powered off the deck. https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Powered+Subwoofer/TS-WX120A I did not want to sacrifice space but wanted a little sub. It does OK, doesn't give you any bump but fills out the music nicely. Overall, not that loud even when full blast still way better than stock though.

I have this head unit. I don't listen to CDs to opted for the BT one to save space which was needed with running RCAs and limited space. Biggest reason for this was 5v preamp outputs along with robust features for a low price. https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/kmm-x704/ I run a 8" Kicker sub in a shallow box. I like it, gives a little bump to help round out the music. I initially wanted to go with a 10" but the 8 just fit better. A 12" is too big IMHO. Not enough cab space to need a 12". https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWCD84/Kicker-44CWCD84.html?tp=68848 Amp is this 5ch. Ran all the speaker through it and the 1 ch for the sub. Can crank some decent tunes. https://soundstream.com/product/pn5-640d/ I do have buckets and this is behind the driver seat. All fits nicely with minimal disruption to interior space.