Smokeyyank

It's funny but it's not becasue it's true....... https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/denver-transplant-starter-packages/7652902350.html

Seems right

Yep, know a few people that get stuck fighting soap scum. When I redid my master we put in all new glass. I applied a hydrophobic coating to it and we squeegee it after and it's been fine. Have to reapply the coating about once a year but way better than the chemicals.

And done! Now a very needed hiatus from large home improvement projects for a bit. Next up are a overland trailer and a RV remodel. After that maybe I can finally have time to build the WJ.

I have mine for sale for 200 and better shape than those. I'm in CO, PM me if you're interested.

Saw this beaut driving, pic sucks, but it's a grand caravan running some mudders. Thing could barley keep 40 going up the hill.

Went to discount, it's a odd size, almost 11" wide, so definite no go and I don't want to put bigger tires on. Found some cheap steelies so will wait for those and try to get this thing built. Thanks again for the feedback.

Thanks for the info. I looked for some used tires but was almost as expensive as buying new tires, I got 3 new tires for about $350. My problem with wheels was the offset. The trailer axles are narrow and if I don't have a deep offset it will put the track very narrow. I would use some XJ wheels but I'm pretty sure the bolt pattern is 5x5.5. Trailer was a homemade one and I think the guy used to tow in behind a CJ.

Appreciate the info. Going to discount tomorrow to find out.

It can't be moved, the old tires no longer hold air and it's buried on my dad's property so not easy to pull out unless tires are on. I guess worst case I throw some basic steelies on it.

I have a trailer project I picked up a bit ago and finally getting around to getting it going. It badly needs new tires so I got some 31x10.5r15, current ones are a 33x12.5r15. I got the old tires pulled off and looking at the rim they are wide af. Look like a 10-12" wide wheel. Tried to measure but wasn't able to get a solid measurement. My question is can I put the 10.5 tire on a 10" wheel? This is a fix and flip I'm not going to keep it. In reading some things it shouldn't be an issue but was just wondering. Trailer it self isn't huge or heavy, came with a MJ bed (the main reason I bought it) and it's main purpose is a overland trailer. Thoughts? This is the best pic I have of it but it's stripped to the frame.

Saw this driving. I have so many questions. Like why not just close the tailgate.

More tile

Water pump might as well especially if you don't know when it was replaced last. Fan clutch if it wiggles otherwise leave it. Also good time to consider a open system vs closed depending on year

My current home project is redoing the basement bathroom. Been slow moving but coming along. Currently tiling. Hoping to be done by end of july with it all. Told the wife this is the last remodel project for a while need to work on the jeeps!

Paint it

Now I know how the "People of Walmart" get their content.

I used both the mothers ball and the hobo freight kit. Harbor freight kit works a lot better. Polish ball was fine for basic maintenance/clean up but wasn't able to give me the shine like the actual polish kit.

I used these and sand paper by block/hand. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-400-grit-abrasive-ball-61183.html

You might have to sand it down with a 1000 grit or so and build it back up. Looks like it's oxidized a lot and polishing alone won't get it there. Below is a turbine I polished. I started with 120 to 400 to 600 to 1000 to 2000 then used a good polish on them. The pic of both is untouched and 600

You could get away with bridging the speaker outputs for the front and running just an amp for the rear speakers but would still recommend another deck if you plan to ran an amp that has both front and rear. Yes, the deck is enough to drive those speakers. I run those same speakers in both my WJ and MJ. WJ doesn't have an amp and is fine but after being in the MJ leaves a lot to be desired, WJ is a lot bigger so again should be enough for that cab. Purpose of tweeters/components is to carve out the high frequencies and position them else where so they can be separated from the mids/lows to be more clear. Without having something for the lows it can make for a very tinny sound, so you'll just end up adjusting your treble down to compensate which defeats the purpose of tweeters/component speakers. Well rounded mids are more important. This is my preference but if I was just running speakers id get some well rounded mids and forgo subs or tweeters.

You need to look for another deck if you want to run a Amp. That one doesnt look to have pre Amp outputs. I know some amps let you connect the speaker wire to them but sound quality sucks. You don't need a Amp for speakers if you're not looking for it to be loud. Also MJ cab is small so a little goes a long way in terms of power and speaker size/placement. I'd forgo tweeters or component speakers unless you run a sub. I have a 8" sub with 6.5 rear and 5.25 door speakers going through a 5ch amp, extremely happy with it. Loud enough that I can party but not so loud I'm rattling fillings loose.

I'd say 35s on a open diff 33s with varilok.

In my WJ I have one. I'm on 32s, with a lunchbox and the HO V8. I haven't had any problems and I've smoked the tires on a few occasions. While I don't think it's the "best" axle I don't think it's crap. Definitely a step up from a turdy5 which still isn't saying a lot.