Smokeyyank

Due to the issues with the 4.7's to begin with rather not go used. If this was a flipper I'd go used but it will be getting turned into the family wheeler.

So I picked up a WJ cheap. 04 Columbia with the 4.7HO. Super clean low miles, but needs a new engine. The guy I've worked with in the past for rebuilds I can't get a hold of. Haven't had a lot of luck finding any local rebuilders that I feel good about or aren't charging a fortune. I've looked at a few long block places online but it really seems to be a mess in regards to reviews. Most of the time it seems the issue is in regards to warranties or dumb asses installing something wrong and blaming the builder. Just wondering about some opinions on what to do? So far the places I've narrowed it down to for a long block are..... XP $2495 and I have to ship my engine to them as they don't have long blocks ready. Below is the 2.7 285 that they do https://spprecision.com/products/47-285-long-block-crate-engine-sale.html S&J roughly $3000 https://www.sandjengines.com/search/rebuilt-auto-engines/2004-Jeep-Grand_Cherokee-- Any input is appreciated.

Awesome! Thanks for doing that. Updated mine for moving up the hill next month. Sitting all by my lonesome self

Hey work smarter not harder right?!

Colorado sucks....... Worst place ever

Really other than just making sure it starts, runs and drives there's not a lot of "problems". Make sure to test the basic daily functions wipers, heat, windows, lights. If it's rusted that's your call. Personally I've learned to walk away from rusted unibodys regardless of the mechanical shape.

98-99 are the best years for the XJ. I'd daily that. Headliner needs to be replaced but nothing else I'm seeing that super rough. Give it a scrub down and tune up and you're good to go.

Google. From there just chatting with people and seeing who you feel comfortable with. You can always post something on FB but tend to get a lot of garbage. Since it's such a small town your options might be limited but on the plus side the people that aren't good at business probably aren't doing it anymore. If you're planning to be somewhere more than 2 years own. Rent is easy and risk is low, but anything past a year is really just throwing money away.

I'll offer my advice as I'm going through this right now. This will be my 3rd home purchase in under 6 years so fairly abreast of things. Sorry it's a lot but should be some good tidbits in there that I only learned from going through it. Before anything don't take out any loans or make any job changes. This will completely derail everything. -First, as much as a dislike them find a realtor. It's your first home and trying to DIY will be a royal pain in the @$$. Don't just use a friend but try to find someone who is knowledgeable about your area and willing to be your advocate. Especially being the buyer there are a lot of realtors that are only looking out for there commission and not you. Remember if you don't like them kick them out and find a new one. Don't depend on your realtor to do it all make sure you are a part of the process. They are working for you. Make them earn their over inflated commissions. I was all over our last realtor and found stuff that she "missed". -Get pre-approved. I've always worked with a broker as they have access to multiple loan options and help in getting the best rate. Most of them will charge a "fee" it can either be a fixed fee or X% of your loan. It's a good idea to shop for lenders to get the best rate. Don't just work with the first person you talk to or who your realtor suggest. They will all have different everything. When you get pre-approved all you are doing is giving them the basics of your income so they can see "how" much you can afford. Every lender has to be able to provide you a Not to exceed estimate of all your cost prior to closing. -Start getting all of your financial documents in order. This was a major issue my first go around and my broker dropped the ball and delayed my closing. You need paystubs, taxes, bank statements, know your FICO, if you have a 401k how much is in there, know how much debt you have and any other weird things (I used to have a company credit card and they defaulted on their payment and it showed up on my credit report because my name was on it). The better prepped you are to give them those documents the easier it is. -For your mortgage, go with a 30 year fixed. There should not be a penalty for paying more than your mortgage amount. Yes a 15 year will get you a better rate but if you can't make a payment you're hosed. You can also set up payments to be bi-weekly that will help pay down your loan faster. If you can pay it off quickly go for it. No sense in paying interest and lining the banks pockets. There are a lot of programs for 1st time home buyers that can help especially with closing cost and if you can't put 20% down to avoid PMI. So after you've gotten those things lined up you can start looking at houses. From there things move fast once you put an offer in most times the process goes...... -Put in an offer on a house, either at asking, below or above. If you bid over you'll need to have that cash as the bank won't loan more. If they accept your offer it will go as below, if not you're back to square one. -You'll need to be able to put down earnest money within a few days of your offer being accepted. Most times it a % of the homes value. It's basically a good faith deposit that will go towards your closing cost. If you don't have the cash and someone "gifts" it to you make sure its traceable, so either check or cashier check, no cash. -You'll need to hire a home inspector. They will go through the house and make sure everything is working how it should. This is where you can submit contingencies back to the seller. They can either fix those items or not. The lender requires a PPI, no bank will loan you money without this being done. You should also be allowed to be there when your inspector is going through the house. -Have someone come out and scope the sewer line or check the septic if applicable. My first house the sewer line was cracked and had started to leak in the yard. Would have never known unless I hired someone to scope it. It's not required but good insurance. Seller had to replace it and cost 10k. Rather him pay and not me. -Once your contingencies are agreed on then it's getting your loan approved. Hands down the most stressful part. This is where it's good to have all your finances in order. Mae sure to not put any cash into your bank account. It becomes a headache because it's not traceable. -You'll have to have an appraiser come out. Your home has to appraises at or above your offer. If it's below you either need to pay the additional or the seller has to agree to the reduced price. -You'll need to get homeowners insurance in place. Talk with your current auto insurance and see what they offer. Again shop around, but you need this done before closing. -You will have closing date set and this is where you'll need to pay closing cost and sign your life away (seriously so many documents it's insane). Closing cost most times consist of how much you're putting down, taxes, escrow money, lenders fees, appraisal cost, credit report cost, title insurance and some other fees. I'd expect on a 70k house about 2-4k in closing cost not including your money down. All I can remember for now. Congrats and good luck!!

cruiser54 has all your answers..... http://cruiser54.com/ Really swapping from RENIX to OBDI isn't worth it. OBDII has some advantageous. HVAC will depend if it's a R12 system vs R34. Fuel pump might need to be swapped.

Pass, 8.25 is the best bet.

V8 ZJ tie rod as suggested is a great, easy upgrade or any solid tie rod. The stocker is as useful as a wiffle ball bat. Other than that Moog for the rest. They make decent stuff and have a fair warranty. don't bother with 1 ton stuff. If you really want to fix the geometry and improve everything go with a WJ swap. Not cheap but really a great upgrade. Better brakes better geometry. General idea of parts involed and some cost. http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-high-roller-wj-steering-brake-kit-xj-mj/

Right on, will be interested to hear how you like it once its good to go.

Similar to this. Just angled to fix the geometry. Thats the ironman4x4fab kit. I like their bellyskid but would dred having to drop it to service the tranny.

Is the upper link offset? Also just wondering why you went with dirtbound? Just curious, really had no idea about their kit. When I get to lifting the mine probably going Stinkyfab but curious about others.

It can buts its a PITA. The metal is thin and sucks to reweld. You can't really spot weld it back. The only way will have to tack, grind, repeat and finish. Just wondering why don't you want to cut and fold?

When I replaced mine I just measured of the old one, but that was without adding a lift. I would venture to guess where ever it lines up for the pitman arm to still be in the "normal" location. The only other thing I can think, and its a shot in the dark, of being the issue is something measurement wise with the arms/cross member is off. You mounted to upper link of the diff side correct? Naturally it would put more pressure over to the passenger side but shouldn't create a major bind. I'm trying to remember off the top of my head how many degrees of separation you need between the links. I believe its 5-10 but can't find my notes on it. I would just check you're somewhere in that ballpark and make sure nothing has been fully torqued down before everything is on.

Does it have any movement in the drag link when you recenter it? I don't think it would be that but it probably has some tension on it. Another random thought is there possibly a link or something new that got bent?

What track bar are you running? Did you adjust/need to adjust the drag link for the additional inch of lift? That little adjuster sleeve thingy. You're right that seems like too much bind. It might be that the extra inch and not adjusting for it is making things difficult.

9k is too much for what that is. I'd keep looking and you honestly might have to go outside statelines to find something. I was lucky enough to pick mine up from a fellow member. Really that would be the best option but not a lot of of members are selling off their rides.

Really! Didn't know that.....

Here's mine stock height before and after ACOS to adjust the front. Its on 29ish tires.

If you want easy and durable I would just go with http://www.monstaliner.com/ or this if you'd prefer a smoother texture https://www.durabakcompany.com/product/durabak-bed-liner-gallon-smooth/ All you'd need to spray is the bed liner gun. Super easy and is a little more forgiving than traditional paint. I'm hoping next summer I can paint my MJ. I'm considering single stage paint. Obviously will have to go through full prep but will be a solid paint job. https://www.eastwood.com/paints/automotive-finishes/colors/single-stage-urethane.html

I would check ebay when they offer X% off 1 item. I've used it a few times to pick up gears, a winch and other parts. I know summit is on there and should have a trutrac

So here's my thoughts. If your bed is decent honestly I wouldnt chop it up. Finding an unmolested bed is damn near impossible. If not or you DGAF the bushwakers will give you the closest fit. There is still a small gap but only if you look closely. Front doesn't matter same as an XJ.