ghetdjc320

I don’t see why not. The additional reinforcement was added to stabilize the unibody area to accommodate the bed frame. I have deleted a portion of mine as many others have but I have yet to come across one structural part of an MJ I would say can be deleted because it was “over built” lol.

The glue for the lenses tends to get very brittle. Plus the majority of the lights that need new lenses also need new mounting tabs. Not sure what key parts was thinking here but they came out with only half a product. Should be good for those who jump in to reproducing the rest of the housing so we can have a complete drop in tail.

Only real advantage to running the engine on a stand is if you are planning to dyno tune it and swap/mod internals before installing. I suppose if you were doing some experimental engine work it also makes sense to run it on a stand. As was mentioned though, you would need harness, ecu, fuel, radiator etc.

We need some new tail light housings now. Preferably in ABS or some sort of similar, tough housing. @Dzimm

Personally I’ve shot both many times. I would recommend single stage if it’s a trail vehicle as you won’t be scratching through the clear coat. Otherwise, base clear is what I’d use in a street rig. On a show rig I’d use a tricoat.

X3 on the Key Parts. Spot weld cutter bits were also very handy

I’ve been running stainless steel spun cats for a few years now. Under $100 all day long. I assume they aren’t carb compliant but I wonder what the actual efficiency difference is. Personally, I appreciate less fumes especially when I’m wheeling.

Very cool part. Gives me some ideas lol

Sounds like a possible coil issue or cam sensor but id have a few more questions. Have you replaced the distributor at all recently? A failing cam sensor also causes very similar issues as it triggers and times your fueling sequence. As for the FP, it’s 39psi without vacuum attached. Check the pressure without vacuum attached and see what you have. Have you checked engine vacuum as well? There are several more possibilities of issues here but let’s narrow some things down a bit and see what’s left

That damage actually doesn’t look too bad to me since it’s on the “back” side of the ring gear and not really even in the contact area. I might just lightly file off anything that ay come loose, clean it up and run it. 4.56 and 33’s in a Dana 35 will almost require some chrome shafts. Fortunately, you have a non c-clip version so you can go with full 4140 chromo shafts vs the 1541 we have to use on the 90 and later 35’s

I knew all the people from my old oreillys and they were willing to go the extra mile to find parts. here we have Napa on island and it’s brutal. Even walking in with a part number they still want the make and model. Sometimes I have no idea what make and mode the part number I need comes from. An 88 chief, that has been my unicorn truck for a while now. All black interior with power everything

I think @acfortier picked that up

DA sanders are great for general cleanup, rust removal, and polishing but as was mentioned, you’ll need to block sand to get things flat. You could also use a good pneumatic straight line sander. Ive also used epoxy primer as a sealer by just diluting it with reducer about 25%. Just make sure to use the appropriate sized tip (1.4 for me). Works surprisingly well as a sealer in a pinch.

You mentioned your working on a 90 but the bulkhead connector diagram you posted is for the HO style 91+. Are you running HO wiring?

I just made my own using the ruff stuff heim steering kit with 7/8” heims. This requires a 3/4” through hole on the knuckles

Just tagging those who were looking for a rebuilt deck earlier: @All around mj @ValpoManche @Torq_Shep @derf May also be interested in a few extra cores if anyone has some they'd like to get rid of. Shoot me a PM

Here is also another member who has good experience with body work as well as some diy info @89 MJ

You need to remove any and all oxidation so you’ll have to see how much sanding is required to remove that. You also don’t want to paint over any existing clear. The factory base coat is very thin and will likely sand right off after you get through the clear. Other than that it’s all about good surface prep. I’d recommend a good epoxy primer over any bare metal. Make sure to apply a good sealer over all your body work and any existin base coats you intend to paint over. The sealer gives you a nice uniform substrate and seals out any previous work. You also need a decent sprayer and compressor to get the right finish. Here is my personal preference and setup. PPG Epoxy, Sealer, Base and Clear Devilbiss sprayer with 1.8 tip for epoxy, 1.4 for sealer and base and 1.2 for clear. i always shoot 4 coats of base and 6 of clear so I can cut and polish off a couple of coats for a perfect finish.

It could also be they jacked up the price because they are out of stock and don’t want any orders they can’t fill. I see that on eBay sometimes.

Do both the bezels line up on the deck the same? Same spacing between the blower switch and slider controls?

Sounds good, and you wanted to see about using the old style bezel on a new style deck correct?

Somehow it will have to be rehydrated as suggested. The thermal printing type may be another story. First and foremost though, it needs to be flattened.

I’ve used them for the tailgate letter a couple of times now too. Good quality

If anyone is following this, I may be interested in a few more used control decks if you want to snag some from your next junkyard run.