ghetdjc320

That’s the one

I may pull the trigger and go with the 3.4 1st gear set as I will be towing occasionally. I do believe though that I’ll grab at least the marlin parts and will post up what I find in my build thread. Also need to source a good quality rebuild kit. I plan on keeping my engine fairly stock aside from headers and intake along with some reliability items. I’m guessing somewhere right around 400 at the crank. I feel like axle gearing also plays quite a role in how the tranny holds up in real life situations.

The speedtek gearset should have higher torque handling than the tremec and they’ll mix ratios at your request. Combine that with the marlin mods and you’d have quite gearbox for a jeep. Someone has to be willing to try it… maybe that will be me

Any pics of how your hinges turned out using the hardware mentioned in this thread?

Possible distributor is 180* out of phase? If it doesn’t run and backfires, timing is suspect.

BFG AT for me

If you’re looking at the TR6060, checkout what speedtech engineering has been doing with the ax and r series with their gearsets. You can run custom ratios and have a 750ftlb+ rated tranny with custom ratio’s. Add that to the marlin upgrades and you easily have the ultimate r/ax series tranny that should outperform the tremec

Have you checked your codes? Key on-off three times. The cel will flash with the codes. Keep in mind that HO MJ’s aren’t very common here. You may want to also reference XJ/YJ threads for comparison

Interesting. If it starts fine while cold but dies when warm, CPS is definitely up there on the list.

Have you replaced the CPS?

Please do! Since JCR discontinued their rear bumper (even the DIY one), there aren’t any other good alternatives. Dirtbound doesn’t use all the frame bolt holes, then they decide to mount their hitch to the brackets themselves and not to the frame. All the other options look like 2x4 bumpers that someone wants several hundred for.

I really do hope it works for you. If not, well at least you can check that one off the list

Oh boy, could you also shoot some detailed pics of the cuts you’re making for the rear notch fenders? It has been very difficult to find any decent pictures.

If you’re selling it due to issues, you will get low balled. I’d still strongly suggest that, if you haven’t done so yet, put a NEW fully charged battery in it and see if that solves things. If it doesn’t, you can always return the battery. Just ignore the fact that it will crank and shows good voltage. In looking at your various posts regarding the different issues you’ve had, I still am strongly suspicious of that battery being the underlying culprit. If you can get it fixed and decide to sell, at least it will be worth more

I feel compelled to repeat myself here: have you tried a NEW battery? . Don’t assume it works because it cranks or shows voltage with a meter. You keep having issues and have tried all sorts of diagnostics. The fuel pump prime comes from the ecu and not directly from the ignition switch.

Just don’t get the “mass backing” as it will crumble and outgas in the heat.

You’re skill at cutting out all the spot welds is epically impressive

They carry almost every option available. Keep in mind that most any contura styles switch will fit so there are truly tons of options out there.

Bumping this question once again. Anyone know if we can get a hitch mounted in conjunction with this bumper using @krustyballer16 or an oem receiver hitch?

The grip locks are good alternatives to truetracs. All the Detroit products went through the roof with pricing sometime during covid. Used to be able to pick them up for around the price of the grip locks just a few years ago

I agree, looks like a vacuum harness of some sort. I’m really not familiar with the 2.8 but I have run a few Weber carbs in the old 258 engines. Not sure how much fuel pressure you are providing, but the Weber likes a fairly low pressure (somewhere around 3.5-4psi iirc).

The dash cutouts accommodate most standard Contura style switches. I went with OTRATTW switches. I believe the X series. I have a picture somewhere in my build thread of what they look like. They have a more retro look to them that felt period correct to me. Here is a link. Lots of options so you can get exactly what you want. They can also provide harnesses to keep everything clean. https://www.otrattw.net/Contura-V-Series-Contura-X-and-XI/

Tom Woods makes great driveshafts as does Adams (I’ve run several of both with zero issues but slightly better service with Tom Woods). Both specialize in a lot of Jeep applications. A local driveline shop may also be an option if you have one close by

Black magic pads are the hands down best I’ve run. For an off the shelf setup, Centric posi-quiet work good as well. Just keep the pad material on the softer side. The hard pads last a long time but tend to not “bite” as well. And keep in mind that any new brake pads need to embed into the rotor. If your hydraulics all checkout and you’re sure they are good, I’d turn the rotors at your local auto parts store, grab some soft organic brake pads or maybe semi metallics but stay away from ceramics. Follow the break in instructions from the manufacturer to get the pad material properly bedded into the rotor. It really can make a huge difference