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Hello all, As you all know, there is really no official guidance on the value of a used MJ. I remember when I was a kid flipping through old car value books for antiques. We’ve seen everything from $500 barn finds to 25K+ builds. KBB or Nada does not work at all with MJs for the most parts. I was thinking about putting something together which would help us to get an idea what a fair market price is for both buying and selling our MJs. Was thinking along the lines of a “comparable sales” approach. We’re all on the look out for a good deal but it’s also laughable when projects are listed for outrageous amounts. What are your thoughts on trying to establish some baseline number or ranges of values based on: trim level, condition and finally restorations/modifications? With enough data and input from club members, I think we could get a respectable general guide to pricing. Obviously there will be regional price differences but I’m not thinking of going that detailed *****Updated info***** Creating a list of different models base Custom X XLS SporTruck Chief Pioneer Eliminator Laredo street comanche Here are the six rating criteria: Excellent: A perfect show vehicle with components that either look like new or operate like new or a perfectly restored vehicle in the same condition. This is a show truck that's rarely driven. Fine: An original that is considered to be in 'excellent' condition or well-restored though not quite at the level of a classic vehicle rated at number one. The vehicle should be well cared for and displays minimal wear and tear. Very Good: A vehicle that shows a good bit of wear, yet still operable. The vehicle is presentable for an amateur restoration though it wouldn't quite meet professional standards. Good: A vehicle that can still be driven though it likely needs minor work (such as a brake job). The vehicle is likely a poor amateur restoration or a restoration that has deteriorated over time. The car is still usable 'as is' but it certainly needs work. Restorable: The vehicle is in need of a complete restoration regarding the interior, chassis, and body. The truck may or may not run. Despite this, it's still in good enough condition that it can be restored. Parts Car: As the name implies, the vehicle is in a state where it's only useful for parts and nothing else.

Unknown, we will have to find a place once we arrive. I will have a good cover though

the one I have is a trimmed xj version but I does not fit well. I’d like to get the mj specific one still

i actually need the panel that goes where the parking brake is. It’s a sort of triangle shaped piece. You can see the passenger one under the dash. The sill piece you highlighted runs right into it and they overlap a bit

Grey would be preferable. I have a modified xj kick panel currently but need to get the mj specific one. Send me pics of what you have for mud flaps. The fronts can be trimmed to look like oem rears easier than the xj rears. Thanks!

Looking for a few final touches for my MJ: Rear mud flaps (all black Jeep logo style or would also consider a set of fronts I can trim to fit the rear) Drivers side kick panel (any color since I have the interior dye already) Dash clock for my 91 (my original wiring is still there and ready to plug in) Thanks!

I only use Swepco ps fluid in my PSC pumps

Agreed lol, why not just use a sticker?

yep I saw your write up. I’m thinking about just getting another set of fronts and the scarfab brackets to install in the original location. I’ll just trim them to match the original rears if I can’t find any. Need to find another set of fronts now

That could be. It quite a bit wider than the 4.0 emblem and the holes look like factory and are very clean.

Looks to me like where a metric ton badge would go but I don’t know if they actually had “alignment pins” that fit these holes.

I’ve had these small holes on my tailgate where it looks like an emblem goes. It’s a 91 so the 4.0 badge goes on the other side.

Have any more for sale? Need a set

FYI 4.56 drum brake axles are still Dana 44’s. I just copied the article I wrote on these axle over on Jeep Forum here to CC for reference.

When I had a carbed YJ I used the edelbrock quiet flow with great results. Problem with other units is how loud they are

@fiatslug87 Thanks a ton! Just picked those up. Now just need to find some rears. These will help so much to keep the truck in good shape

Well, after 20+ tire kickers and ridiculous low ball offers I’m keeping it and shipping it to Micronesia with us. One guy offered 15k some offered 10 or less. Some guys said they would only go off of kbb value which just shows how ignorant people really are. One guy said he didn’t like it modified and asked if I would return it all to stock and he would offer me 10k lol. What a joke. Anyways, I just don’t have the ambition to keep dealing with these ridiculous offers. Before I set off for Micronesia I’m really trying to dig up some parts that I’m hoping someone will be generous enough to part with. I really need a set of mud flaps for this truck. Where we’re moving to is one of the wettest places on earth so trying to keep everything in as good of shape as possible. Going to be going over everything at least once every couple of weeks and making sure no rust tries to form. If anyone has a set of mud flaps they’d be willing to part with please let me know. And yes, I know it’s a big ask 😆

That’s a good question but I’d think not. The axle bearings and axle flange offset would all likely be off.

done

@Pete M Has asked me to post this here for reference. I wrote a thread several years back on Jeep Forum regarding the Dana 44 axles from Isuzu Rodeos and Honda Passports. I picked up several of these axles as well as a new JK Dana 44 and a few Ford 8.8’s. I was building and selling these axles at the time and there was a lot of confusion regarding these axles. Most think of the Dana 44’s that were in XJs and TJs which were not the strongest iterations of this axle. The JK debuted a Dana 44 HD with stronger internals, axle tubes and brakes. Although I don’t have one of these axles in my MJ I ran them for several years in my YJ with a stroker and 35’s. Took it to Moab and anywhere ese I could wheel. These axles are extremely stout for their size. Several other run them on Jeep forum now and use them easily with 37’s with zero mods and zero problems. These are a great alternative to the 8.8 for many reasons which can be saved for future discussion. Anyways here is the information I wrote on JF: I have been doing a lot of research on the Dana 44 from the rodeos/passports. They seem to be a good swap candidate for CJ's and wranglers. The 4wd models mostly came with factory disks but the 2wd models still have Dana 44's but typically use drum brakes. There are two different models of this axle available depending on the year. Here are some of the specs below:UPDATE: The bolt pattern can be changed to a 5 on 4.5 by a reputable machine shop but the hub size of the axle shaft/rotor center bore is 3.75" so there is not much room to drill this pattern. The next issue would be the center bore of your wheels fitting. 93-95 Rodeo/Passport Dana 44 93-94 only had dana 44 with the v6 95.5 may have a different axle 58" WMS to WMS 4.10, 4.30 & ??? Available (all use thick cut gear sets with 3.73 and down carriers) 12.3" Disk brakes standard on all 4x4's Leaf sprung SUA No shock mounts welded to axle Standard d44 pinion yoke can be used 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern (not safe to redrill due to hub size) 3" .25 axle tubes that do not appear to neck down at all.Set10 Bearings used on axle shafts 96-97 Passport/Rodeo Dana 44 60.5 WMS Perfect YJ/TJ Swap No 4.10 gears available in these two years 4.30 for 6Cyl and 4.56 for most 2wd 4cyl applications (Rare) All 4.30 Ratio rears had Disk Brakes. Only the 4.56 came with drums 2.75 Axle Tubes that neck up to 3.25 just before the brake backing plates to accommodate the bearings Set10 Bearing All use Standard size Dana 44 gears that are thick cut on a 3.73 and down carrier 30 Spline Axle shafts 98+ Passport/Rodeo Dana 44 63" WMS Coil Sprung Available in 4.10, 4.30 & 4.56 (Rare) Uses JK style HD Dana 44 R&P 3.73 and numerically lower carrier for all gear ratios Thick cut Ring and oversized pinion8.9" Ring Gear Dana 60 Yoke fits on stock pinion JK Wheel bearings and seals are the same part# as rodeo/passport and fit 6 on 5.5 pattern Will try to pull pics from my research in a bit. Please feel free to reach out for any question regarding this swap or more axle details. Thanks!

I also work a lot on jet skis and we use a small catch can with a tiny air filter on it. Those are only on supercharged skis though. In a stock or even stroker 4.0 I’d just reconnect the vent system back to factory specs. It works well that way. Just make sure the baffles in your valve cover don’t get plugged up with junk.

Sure thing! And if anyone needs more info, just let me know

Don’t mean to promote any other forum but here is the thread I wrote over there: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/definitive-info-passport-rodeo-dana-44-a-3006465/?amp=1 The first post was edited to reflect all the current info. I had a D44 from a JK, 95 rodeo/passport, 97 rodeo/ passport and 2000 rodeo/passport. Also had 4 exploder 8.8’s when going through the comparisons. I was building and selling most of these axles and had the option to keep any of them. The rodeo d44 is what I chose after working on them all. Lighter center section with much better clearance, thicker and stronger axle tubes, set 10 bearings upgradeable to set 20, 12.3” brake rotors, larger and stronger ring and pinion. Oh, and about 1/3 the price of the 8.8 at our local yards back stateside. The only down side you have to sort out is the wheel pattern.

The Dana 44 comes in multiple varieties and that article only shows the TJ/XJ Dana 44. First off the ZJ V8 d44 is an aluminum housing setup similar to the corvette version. The 98+ rodeo/passport d44 has d60 size pinion and an 8.9” ring gear. Quite a bit beefier than the 8.8. Thicker axle tubes as well. I think a lot of people think that Dana made a whole new axle for the JK but the HD gear set came out in 98 or maybe even earlier. The rodeo/passport axles also have disk brake options and most are 4.10 and 4.88 but you find plenty of different ratios depending on the vehicle. The Dana 44 was even used with 2wd 4cyl rodeo/passports. By the way, the dana 35 is still in use today in the JT and JL. The 07 JK also had a d35 depending on the build date. However the new d35’s are quite a bit stronger than the old ones in our trucks. The d44 in the rodeo/passport is a super good option and the only major drawback is the whee bolt pattern which can be addressed a number of ways. They are very cheap to pickup and super abundant in most places. Very stout axles that have been good on even 37’s without any major upgrades.

No crush sleeve in the high pinion dana 30’s. There are pinion depth shims and pinion preload shims.