ghetdjc320

Is this your truck? Any pics? I can’t open the link

Have an odd little vacuum sound. I run a dual diaphragm 8” booster and an electric vacuum pump that runs fairly high vacuum (24in). Recently, when I let off the brake pedal their is a vacuum suction sound that lasts for just a second then sounds like a valve closes shut. Almost sounds like something is a bit sticky in the booster and needs some oil. The booster isn’t leaking at all while breaking and works fine otherwise. Any ideas what it could be?

i believe the “heavy duty” components they are talking about is just the standard upgrades found on new ax15’s. I went through two rebuilt units before I found a good used one that worked perfectly. A new tranny can be had cheap enough that I wouldn’t get a rebuilt one. I’d go with a good used or new

I tried that on mine and it worked somewhat. Definitely not as miraculous an effect as I was hoping. Not sure if the plastic is harder than a headlight but it was tough to polish

Depends on wether your a buyer or seller

Any chance they gave you the water pump for a wrangler? They spin in the opposite direction of XJ/MJs

Very odd. Will the snap ring stay in place and not spin at all in the housing? If not, use some green loctite to fix it in place and let it cure before reinstalling

This is where your mark should align:

That speedo gear is not clocked properly. Turn it until it fits correctly. The snap ring should never interfere with the speedo gear. That’s a strange tail housing that doesn’t have a fully machined groove for the snap ring all the way around! Do you know what kit that is?

FYI this problem was due to a burnt out fuse for the cooling fans.

Almost any auto parts store carries them in the hardware section. Auto glass shops also normally carry a huge selection of those clips since they deal with trim panels every day.

I’m running a Singer 230A. It’s a recent install though so it’s possible this was damaged before the alternator upgrade

Turns out it was the fuse for the cooling fans. I think the fan controller is not cutout for the current draw of the fans. Going to upgrade to a bigger controller.

As I write this, I’m sitting on the side of the road waiting for my MJ to cool down. It’s always 85 or so every day here on island. For those of you who know my MJ, the built engine is super clean and has no contaminants in the coolant. I run a flowkooler water pump with billet impeller, Hesco ported thermostat housing, aluminum dual core radiator and an oem 195 thermostat. The truck will run cool for a good long while after starting. Zero issues for probably 30 mins. After some stop and go traffic it starts. Long uphill pulls will also set it off. Once it climbs to 210 it will just keep on going. There are no coolant leaks that I can tell and I’ve done my absolute best to burp the air out of the system. Radiator cap is good and is a 13 or 16lb unit (can’t remember off the top of my head). Any ideas? I have no compression in the coolant or coolant in the oil. I know the oem design is very lacking but this is a bit ridiculous. By the way, running triple 10 fans with controller and optima yellow top battery with 230a Singer alternator so power is not an issue.

Just lookup an injector calculator. Remember that a 24lb Injector is rated at a higher fuel pressure that our systems are set for so you really aren’t getting 24lbs from it. I believe our actual fpr are set for 38lbs with no vacuum???

They’re not, I checked. Haven’t seen that MJ around for a while and it was rusting to death.

the long and short speed gears are actually both compatible with the tail housing. Only the sending units are different. Your sye tailshaft probably has a plastic gear held in with a couple of snap rings. Try removing that tail cone and inspecting that plastic gear up close. Also make sure the gear has both rings in place and can’t move around

No need to go that far into the system unless you want to replace the evaporator core. Just check for vacuum going through the firewall where the ac lines connect to the expansion valve. That vacuum line feeds the vacuum for the hvac switch panel.

It should be plenty smooth. Are you sure you have it aligned properly? It’s always a bit tricky since it does not align with the hold down bolt but rather with a ridge near the bottom of the tail cone. If you 100% sure there isn’t anything wrong with the alignment then take a picture of your tail shaft speedo splines and look for damage. Also check your speedo gear sending unit for runout when turning the speedo gear

Have you checked rock auto? They used to carry all the splash guards as recently as a year ago. They may still have them.

I would think tar paper would be pretty similar. It’s for roofing but it’s thick stuff about 1/8” - 3/16” or so

It’s in the help! Product aisle. It’s a standard Chrysler fuel injection quick connect. It will have a barb for a 5/16 or 3/8 hose so you’ll have to grab some fuel injection rates hose from the store also. There are also adapters for the quick connect to an fittings if you’d like to go that route but those are pricey. Dorman 800-120 and 800-121 are the two part numbers for the supply and return line fittings for the fuel rail. And both have hose barbs

There’s one other MJ here on Guam that is badly rusted. I have yet to meet the owner but from what I’ve heard, it was a military order vehicle. At the time, there was no Jeep dealership on island and it wasn’t a personal import

Nice find 👍

Does anyone not recall that MJs were also built as race trucks? The Eliminator was a sporty “track” version until they added the 4x4 option. If your truck feels unstable at 85 then you need some suspension/steering work. And before you say “where can you go 85?”, our speed limit was 85 on our toll roads in TX. Most did 90-100.