ghetdjc320

I did front and rear 5.25 Morel components & a sub

Negative. No plastic cut. Just had to mod the original bracket. The existing speaker grill is decent size and works well with 5.25 woofers

Everything is relative, but one must have some good tools and skill to accomplish this. The OP is new to the scene, learning very quickly, but let’s make sure to not oversimplify this rebuild. I’d do gear changes all day long before doing an ax15 rebuild. I’ve done one once and it was not a fun day. Ended up just getting another used tranny since I botched a synchro install on 2nd gear and didn’t realize it until I had it installed back in my Jeep. The OP hopefully won’t have the same issue. That was a painfully expensive effort lol. I’d prefer to setup gears all day long.

I did Morel 5.25 components in all 4 locations. The rears will take the 5.25 using the TJ 5.25 adapter from metra. You will about 1/4” of spacing to get them to fit just right and will need to modify the stock brackets a bit. Pretty easy to do. Add an amp and they will come alive. The tweeters should be mounted higher. I’m not going to get too specific with where I decided to put mine because it will spark an acoustic conversation that I don’t have time to discuss at the moment. Plus I’m about 8k miles away from my rig lol. All in all though, it’s one of the cleanest installs you can do using factory locations. Coaxial speakers behind the seat aren’t in a very good position. Components can be pretty decent though and of course, they can look like a factory install. Sound control is really key to getting the best performance out of a system like that.

An AX15 complete rebuild is quite a task. I’d recommend just doing the clutch and perhaps swapping to the 94+ bell-housing so you can use the external slave setup. If you do, use a Luk rep-set or HD clutch and a Timken throw out bearing. Rock auto carries the clutch and timken throw out bearing

I prefer just adding the check valve to the hvac line after the canister to eliminate other possible vacuum leak locations.

If it’s a 92 then it has an internal slave cylinder. Clutch change is in order. But try bleeding it first just to be sure

If it was driven that way before you bought it, it will likely need new synchros. A clutch going out will typically slip but won’t keep you from getting into gear. Getting into gear requires that the clutch fully engages. So checking the master and slave cylinder would be were i would start as suggested. They are directly responsible for getting the clutch engaged and disengaged. What year is the Jeep and does it only happen in 1-2?

So with that info the actual lift should be about 3” over stock.

I don’t believe it’s built into the canister. Even so though, that hvac line should have its own check valve. That’s absolutely true though. An engine under load will produce almost no vacuum and the default position on that vacuum motor is defrost.

The SURR kit is a top shelf quality kit by a reputable company that stands behind the product. To me its worth it. Plus, it really does come with a great assortment of fittings including some that are tough to find.

A PDC is the power distribution center. Not sure about renix years but they were standard starting in 91+. It houses most of the relays and high amp fuses for all the electrical. I repined my 91 pdc and have my sub amp, arb comp, aux lights, aux e-fans and more all running through it in addition to all the factory components (ac, fuse block, starter, fuel pump, headlights, alt power etc)

This was a wiring project but you can see the larger Wilwood valve mounted with the drop bracket onto an 01 XJ booster and master. Best non-hydroboost brakes I’ve had so far

Get this kit from summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/urr-br-ez316?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2ZaGBhBoEiwA8pfP_jl7-A7cMNJ7i74XoN6F3EDdn1ejZx-FK8gZGZeTg9kvIMZeFVOIjxoCJFEQAvD_BwE You’ll have everything you need to revamp your brakes and it’s a super quality kit with us made copper nickel line that has thicker walls than the Amazon stuff. Also, you can go with the Wilwood valve above or you can do the larger Wilwood valve which has the plumbing for bothe front and rear built in. Also has a nifty little bracket you can get for a clean install

Are you going to use a PDC?

You will likely just need to add a vacuum check valve on the vacuum line going through the firewall to the hvac panel. The vacuum motor that controls that hvac door is located on the drivers side at the plenum box. If the check valve doesn’t solve the problem, you can try using a vacuum pump (just a little minivan hand unit works fine) and test the vacuum motor to make sure it’s holding. You can backwards troubleshoot from there. It is also very common to have a vacuum leak in the hvac vacuum hose right near the firewall. Good thing to double check as well

This is great advice here and what I would also recommend. Re-purposing factory connections and the PDC is the cleanest way to go. I’ve done stand alone efi from Holley and it’s a great setup. That being said, a lot of you stock under hood wiring will remain. The ecu itself will be deleted but there are some basic things it provided that you’ll need to either get from the new ecu or will need to piece together like your 5v reference signals for map, tps, vss etc. Also, I use alldata for all the wiring diagrams and it has everything you will every need to trace down wiring and thin out what you don’t need.

4.10’s would be great with the aw4 and 31’s. I ran 3.55’s for several years on 31’s with a ba10/5 tranny and it was quite manageable. The d30 carrier break at 3.73 is what kept me from swapping gears earlier.

Yeah, don’t go with 3.73. 3.55’s or 4.10 depending on drivetrain and tire size

3.73 is an uncommon ratio to go with. If you must have it though grab an aftermarket set. Swapping in an lp axle is a step backwards

Why not go with a Holley terminator x system? Tunable to your hearts content but will get you going out of the box once you add the 4.2 hyperspark distributor

If your looking for aftermarket, I enjoyed the corbeau Baja XRS in my YJ. PRP seats are also highly regarded. For an MJ I might go with a corbeau trailcat or similar since the width is nice and thigh bolsters are easier to get in and out of.

Had that label on my 88 YJ