ParadiseMJ

OP, what do you mean it won't engage? Is the transfer case in Neutral? What is the fluid level/color/condition? Those would be the only two reasons the tranny would not ENGAGE, that I can think of, other than a bad torque converter or an all over toasted tranny. Wouldn't have any thing to do with the electrics.

OP, what do you mean it won't engage? Is the transfer case in Neutral?

Call me crazy...I didn't want any roll-on OUT side the bed at all. I have diamond plate bed rails and tailgate now.

I am asked all the time where I found such a RARE truck. I don't believe my MJ is RARE considering there are about 4 or 5 of them in the small town I live in. I suppose nationally they may be rare since 25 year old vehicles don't usually last that long in the rust belt. I wanted an MJ pretty bad and passed on 3 of them before I found mine...for $400...rust free, with 160K on the clock. Guy said it wouldn't start, he'd tried everything. I put a CPS in it. Started right up. I have put some money and time into it and it runs great but I think I'd be really hard pressed to get 3k for it, essentially breaking even.

There's a guy here in town with dual 4" chrome stacks (with the little flaps on top) on his jacked up camo Chevy LUV who sports a purple & yellow Mohawk. If I was smart enough to own a smart phone I'd get a picture. I believe he may be single!!! :dunno:

What is this rust everyone keeps talking about?

I have a HD flasher that I put in for towing load. I didn't do it because it was too quiet but it's a positive side effect. It's louder than the stock one I took out. I can hear it when driving, and I can't hear at all out of my left ear.

When I first got my truck one of the supports was toast. I put cables on and never looked back. Much better.

Has nothing to do with California

Comanches and Cherokees are ALMOST identical. Drive line lengths and short bed vs. long bed also makes a difference in the length of the shaft. Other wise: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

No, what you read has to do with pressure flushing the transmission. The AW4 is NOT that sensitive. Check your fluid level and condition again, you might want to do a drain and fill again, especially if the fluid was brown-ish. There are ~8 qts. total in the AW4, most of which are captive in the torque converter. Drain and fill a series of 3 to get the majority of the old fluid out and new fluid in. 3.75 qts out, 3.75 qts. back in.

If you're buying O-rings from the hardware/auto parts store you'll need 2 per connector PLUS the little plastic spacer. That's what the connector seal pictured above is...just 2 O-rings and a spacer and the clip*. The center white part is just packaging. The little spacer is necessary ! So if you take the connector apart and DIY, save the spacer. I've never been able to find the spacers anywhere but the junkyard. Then it just goes together like so...o-ring, spacer, o-ring. Total cost = $1 *Edit: I edited this because I forgot about the actual clip. The clip is also available at the parts store in the HELP! section. They come in a pack of 4 or 5 for $3.99. If you go that way buy extra O-rings and do the other fuel connector.

Stock length shocks are fine.

Did you make absolutely sure it was seated on the locating dowels? It can be not seated...and still bolt up. That would cause a high idle and noise, ticking etc.

My 88 and 90 both have studs & nuts on the ends.

I don't have fantastic fab skills either but I was able to re-construct the rear fenderwells on my XJ. It was not bad. After cutting through the pinch there was about a 2" gap. I was able to weave it back together, with some scrap steel I had around, then welded, then covered the whole mess with poly caulk. It's not pretty, but since you can't see it, I don't care. It's solid.

1.) Lost the brakes in my 59 Mercedes 220S due to a hose/line leak. I could fill the master and I'd be good for about 3 "braking incidents". I drove it home from the east side of Yosemite N.P. to San Jose just using gears (about 200-250 miles), down & up shifting, the e-brake and dumb luck. I also made the trip at 1:00 am thru 5:30 am. No traffic. Fixed the brake line...actually ALL the lines...and drove it for another 4-5 years. 2.) Engine seized in my VW squareback. Looked like a James Bond smokescreen. I junked that car. 3.) 1990 Jeep XJ...popped a tranny cooler hose on a trail about 25-30 miles from the nearest paved road...about 50 miles from any town. I did not know about it until the Jeep just stopped moving. Under hood looked like a murder scene. After 5 hours I was lucky enough to reach a friend on my cell after hiking up to the top of the hill. A friend showed up with a case of Dex III. It took 8 quarts, so it was empty before it actually stopped. That tranny is still in service and doing great over 100K miles later.

I live 8 miles from the Sierra Nevada brewery in Chico...don't like much of their stuff, Porter, IPA and Stout...but usually Tequila or Brandy. Have guns, shoot them, but don't hunt. This guy comes to the front porch, lives in my backyard with his "family(s)"

Cruise control : How is the HVAC working? Do you have air blowing out all vents? Any vac leaks? Is the throttle control from the cruise servo attached? Power/Comfort : Do you have back-up lights?

We have the usual local parts stores, AZone, O'Reilly, NAPA etc. in town and good support from sister stores within 30 miles. However, When I go to AZone to get a part and compare it with Rock Auto and it's CHEAPER and BETTER with better service I'll use RA. If I find the same part at RA for the same price at NAPA I'll usually go NAPA, but that is very rare. If I want/need it NOW I will pass on RA.

1. When the truck is cold, put a wrench on your manifold bolts and try to cinch them up . 2. Other than a very careful visual of the vac system or spraying carb cleaner etc. you might want to have it smoke tested. 3. Check the other connections at the manifold. 4. Double check brake booster hose.

This is what we have to deal with: http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-92-JEEP-COMANCHE-LEFT-HAND-LH-TAIL-LIGHT-TAILLIGHT-STOP-SIGNAL-LAMP-LENS-/181183228435?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2f5caa13&vxp=mtr If you EVER see an MJ tail light in the junk yard that is not broken, buy it!

Some great info there...thanks all!

I've never done ball joints. My son was told he needs passenger side upper & lower. They quoted him $475 for one side. I know I can get decent parts are less than $100...although the shop told him they are $140 per side. This a highway driver, not much off-road if any, so I don't need any super duper performance or adjustable ones. Just quality OEM replacements So...this'll be a teaching moment, for both of us...anyone got a good comprehensive How-To write-up with photos, tips & tricks? I would appreciate it. His truck is an XJ, a 90, 4WD, 4.0 etc.

Dawn dish soap, Simple Green or Purple Power, IMHO I think any one of them work better than anything petroleum based. I would do the carwash thing but the carwash people won't let us do that anymore...OUR local one...your results may vary. I just use one of these products and a garden hose...with a nozzle. Cover up your sensitive areas (TPS, distributor, MAP) etc.!