phatton

You can also buy a prepunched circler strip of leather on eBay and amazon and lace it over your existing wheel for about $10. I put one on my Comanche. It works well and looks good.

I switched to an open system and the truck runs cooler than it use to. It could be that the new radiator plays a big part, but I prefer the open system.

Where are you located? I'm in North East PA and have a pair of vent wing doors.

claytonoffroad.com offers a track bar repair kit with a larger bushing, bolt and nut for about $50. Ebay has listings for track bar repair kits that have a bolt and replacement nut for around $20. If you drill out your existing nut, you will also need a way to enlarge the bushing hole and a way hold the new nut in place while tightening the new bolt. I believe the torque spec it around 135 ft/lbs. If I had this problem, I would go with Clayton Offroads kit.

I have had this experience with my Comanche before and just recently had it happen a bout a week ago. In my case it always seems to be a tire issue. When I had the wobble last week, I rotated the tires (8000 miles on them). The truck still wobbled. I checked all the front suspension components and everything was tight and in spec. I rebalanced the front tires had to remove a very small amount off weight from one and add a small amount to the other. Road tested the rig and am problem free. When I said a small amount of weight I'm talking about 3 ounces. In addressing death wobble the first thing to check is tire wear and balance, next would be alignment, Then front suspension parts within spec. Hope this helps.

If your axles just have surface rust - card them with a wire wheel to get the light stuff off - then apply 2 coats of Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator. I prefer the quart can over the spray can. You can use a brush, roller or sprayer to apply. This is a quality product which is very durable, blocks out the rust and can be painted over or left as is.

I replaced my worn meteoric ton spring with a new set and gained1" in height

Remove the bumper and put the face of the bumper down on cement floor. Heat the back of the dent with torch until it's cherry red then smack it with a good size hammer. You might have to do this more than once. You should be able to get most of the dent out this way; then you can use body filler to address any small imperfections.

Acetone is very flammable . I would not use any open flame around it.

I wouldn't worry about it - oil pressure fluctuation with a mechanical gauge is pretty common. I'd worry if it started showing extremely low or no oil pressure.

I used GCI 595 series military coatings. This is an alkyd enamel designed to be sprayed on. I got it from Gillespie Coatings, Inc., 211 Gum Springs Rd, Longview, Texas 75602. Their phone number is 903 753 0393. I got a gallon of their Sand color which is a flat paint that sticks well and is pretty forgiving to spray. They recommend using up to 20% Xylene to thin this paint if you are using conventional spray equipment. I ordered mine a couple of years ago. I believe it cost me around $120 a gallon delivered to PA. The company also makes spray cans of the same paint which matches nicely. I like it.

The air vent system is vac. controlled - if the system looses vac. - air only comes out of the defrost. If you pull the radio, you can see if the vac. line to the switch is attached .

Is the rubber handle on the 4 wheel drive selector handle removable? If so how?? Thanks

What part of the truck is the picture showing? The metal under the hole is a big concern - you're pic shows it to be very rusty. That area needs to be addressed before you patch the hole. I would cut a strip off the top piece of sheetmetal wide and long enough to expose the rusty section underneath, patch that section first and the fab a top patch. This repair work requires a welder and metal shaping skills.

I have a 4x4 90 lwb 4.0 with metric ton springs and a dana 44 rear with aw4 trans and np231 t case. It is not lifted. I just swapped in a ax15 and and 231 t case from a 94 cherokee. Can I run my original auto trans rear driveshaft? It fits but sticks out of the transfer case 1.5 inches more than it did when the auto trans was in it. How much of the drive shaft needs to be in the transfer case ? Thanks

How do you remove the plastic knob on the seat back tilt lever? It looks like there is a roll pin in there, but there is no hole on the other side to push the pin out. Thanks

Is this what you are looking for?

Rockauto carries the same carpet - I believe theirs is a little cheaper

Just to be safe count the splines. It will be either 21 or 23. The transfer case you get must have the same number has the trans output shaft.

Has anyone tried Auto Customs Interior molded vinyl flooring? I'm considering switching from carpet to molded vinyl in my 90 Comanche and ACI is the only scoured I've found - would like some real world experience with their product - Thanks

I'm in the process of doing this swap . I got a 1996 Cherokee with a 4.0 engine and 5speed manual. I pulled the pedals, trans, and transfer case from the 96 and will put them in my 90 Comanche which also has a 4.0 engine. The 90 Comanche is a Renix controlled system which is different from the 96 Cherokee. I had to get a manual flywheel for a 90 jeep to ensure the magnet for the crank position sensor was in the right spot. While I was at it I got a new crank position sensor. The 96 manual trans has a 23 spline output shaft. the 90 Comanche uses a 21 spline shaft. I could have used the 96 transfer case which mates up to the 96 trans but the 96 Cherokee uses a solid axel front drive shaft and the 90 has our beloved split front axel shaft controlled by a vacuum system. I took the main shaft and gears from the 96 transfer case and put them in the 90 case. Now I have a vacuum controlled transfer case with a 23 spline main shaft that will bolt to the 96 trans. You will also need a pilot bearing that will fit your Comanche engine and your Ax15 - there was a recent post giving the part number of this bearing. I'm not certain if the transmission cross member for the Comanche will fit the new trans - I pulled the crossmember from the Cherokee just in case. I got my flywheel, clutch kit, trans mount, pilot bearing and clutch master and slave from Rock Auto. One other point jeep recommended and used 70w-90 gl-5 gear oil in their ax15 trans. The high sulfur content of this gear oil can eat the ax15 trans brass synchronizers. I have my trans at the shop being checked out right now. Hope this helps

I feel your pain. It seems like every time I think a project will take about an hour or 2, I end up spending about 2 days working on it.

My shop manual says the recommended gear oil for the ax15 trans is 75w90 gl-5. The tranny holds about 3.5 quarts.

Where are you located? I'm in northeast PA and have a reproduction drivers side long bed side that I could part with. Local pick up only too big to ship.

Thanks