cruiser54

Have you verified voltage at the orange wire for the oxygen sensor and good ground at the black wire? Also, on your O2 sensors, while unplugged, get the ohms reading from orange to black wires.

I haven't a clue why.

Bad oxygen sensor or no power/ground to its heating circuit.

www.cruiser54.com

That was a common practice years ago. Epoxy has sometimes been used to fill that hole also. Watch carefully when turning that air screw in that it doesn't hit the butterfly.

Tips 1 through 5, in that order for your issue.

Go to my website and complete Tips 1 through 5 before doing anything else.

I'm suspicious of that posi lock not engaging all the way.....

Check this fuse.

Too technical for me........the terminology is over my head....

I have Nick's REM and the factory DRB tool. Kinda prefer Nick's.......

The monitor is a great tool to have.

Intake manifold bolts can be loose enough to allow a vacuum leak. Always a good idea to put a tool on them at least once in a 4.0's lifetime. We did that as part of the 30.000 mile tune-up it was so common. Carb cleaner is a great tool in finding vacuum leaks as stated previously. If vacuum is verified all good, the MAP sensor could be faulty.

I'm gonna bet the hose from the throttle body to MAP sensor is compromised. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS THROTTLE BODY TO MAP SENSOR HOSE FIX JANUARY 23, 2016 CRUISER54 29 COMMENTS The Renix throttle bodies have a strange and failure prone connector on the side where the MAP supply originates and then runs up to the MAP sensor located on the firewall. This hose/pipe assembly is no longer available for purchase. The real kicker here is how critical this line is in supplying the correct vacuum signal to the MAP, the most relied upon sensor for the ECU to read regarding air/fuel ratio. Any cracks, melted spots, or loose rubber connectors can cause major starting and driveability issues. There’s a simple fix though. All that’s required is a 1/8” NPT tap, a new throttle body gasket ( Napa FPG 60742 ), a vacuum fitting (Napa 05703-B102), two vacuum elbows (Napa CRB2670), and a length of new plastic piping (Napa CRB2672). Remove the throttle body and take it to the workbench. Using an oiled tap along with a driver, carefully thread the lower of the 2 holes of the throttle body where the old fitting was plugged in. Don’t go too deep. These are pipe threads. Flush the hole with carb cleaner and inspect for any left over cuttings. This is an excellent time to do a complete throttle body and IAC cleaning. See Tip 11. Take the vacuum fitting (05703-B102 ) and apply a LITTLE bit of thread sealer on the threads only. I prefer Permatex #2 but almost anything is fine. . Carefully screw the fitting in until snug. Install one of the vacuum elbows on the MAP sensor so it points toward the throttle body, and the other vacuum elbow on your new throttle body fitting so it points up to the MAP sensor. Cut a length of the new plastic tubing (approximately 13 inches) to fit between the vacuum elbows and install it making sure there is enough slack for some engine movement. Route it according to the photo. We don’t want any rubbing or chafing with engine movement. Not a bad idea to use some contact cement or Gasga-Cinch sparingly on the tubing to elbow connectors.

Have you ever gone to my website and just scanned the list of write-ups? Might save you some time.

Yup.

I'm doomed...........

Uh-oh, on my 4" lifted MJ, I used the ZJ pitman arm.........

Well, if I have any they're technically from part out Arizona Jeeps.

If you see no leaks, make sure fluid is full and fresh. Pump the clutch pedal 50 times and then walk away. That will get any trapped air out of the system. You guys ever change brake fluid? Bare minimum, once a year suck the fluid out of the reservoir with a clean turkey baster. Refill with fresh fluid. Brakes and clutch. Full bleed on brakes is best, but this is better than nothing. Also take a gander at the top of the pedal where the clutch master attaches. Torn weld?