omega_rugal

it is plastic, can be easily fixed

no lift, the suspension is all stock, too stock if you ask me, need to change those bushings ASAP, caster is a little off because my MJ was in a crash, the front is slighty bent to the passenger side...

the death wobble happens at 45 mph or more and when hitting large bumps, or several small bumps in succesion, i lifted the front axle this afternoon and everything looks solid except when i push the wheel hard i notice that the steering box rocks a little, not the pitman arm, the entire box, i´ll do more tests tomorrow, until i find the culprit, back to 3rd gear only ...

something is wrong, again, the dreaded death wobble is back... it went away when i tightened the steering box but now it feels loose again, i don't know if i should tight it, i´m afraid that i´m only masking the real cause

does the XJ/MJ front geometry change when you turn the steering wheel? i lately noticed that when i turn the wheel all the way the front leans to that side, is this normal o something is wrong?

just being near salt water is enough to rust a car...

AW4 if you want automatic, AX15 if you want manual are the best options also, you didn´t mention how you plan to use: on road, off road, light towing, heavy towing... for light duty on road even a BA10/5 will do, if you happend to find one that is not shot and cheap...a Chrysler 32RE/32RH with the right rear axle ratio will work fine in the city but it won´t be fast enough in the highway, also your mileage will suck, avoid the 42RE, it has a lot of issues, the older 32RE/32RH is actually stronger and more reliable all the others are too old, have very wide ratios and no overdrive, heavier, etc... useful only for heady duty tasks or extreme offroading

why not mix them BEFORE you put them in the engine and see what happens...?

like i said in my example, that GM engine has been running 30+ with plain water and still has the same pump it came from the factory my moms 2000 Nissan has always used antifreeze, last time i flushed it a lot of rust came out so i have my doubts... again, it has aluminum heads...

that the manual valve is broken, but sounds like the cable is detached

all-iron engines seem to not care, unless you put hard water in them. use destilated

does the color has anything to do with the properties? also brands use diferent colors in any way they like... besides, i´m beginning to believe that "using only water damages the engine" is a myth, the father of a friend bought a GM C-10 brand new in 1988, with the 250 inline-6 mated to s SM460, shortly after it converted it to propane and has been running on it ever since, also since he worked as a trucker, always put oil designed for diesel engines and filled it with tap water as coolant, it drove it like that for the past 30+ years, has tons of miles on it, the odometer gave up at 250, 000 long ago and i[m ashamed to say it runs BETTER than my 4.0, it doesn´t burn a drop of oil, not a single coolant leak, never being repaired, the truck has seen better dyas but the engine still pulls as if was new... there must be something in the antifreeze that works as a catalyst and eventually eats the engine from inside, specially the ones with aluminum heads, iron block + aluminum heads + antifreeze means failure... my only guess is that the ethylenglycol breaks the oxide layer that protects the AL from rusting...

yes, swap both axles, more work and time but it´ll save you a headache

keep that metric ton package at all costs...

very true, real head turners...

unless you do it yourself... i´m training to perform engine swaps, gathering the tools and the skill what about the buick 3800? those are plenty, some come supercharged, have power and torque, bulletproof some say and bolt to the GM 60 deg bellhousing, you have to make your own engine mounts but they looks rather easy to make a supercharged, LPG breathing Buick 3800 serie III will be my next favorite engine when the 4.0 becomes extinct...

oh that feeling when you see an MJ waiting to be modded...

check the IAC, the ECU controls cold idle with it, unplug it and see if it does the same or rpms drop...

whoaa i knew mexican gasoline sucks but come one, it literaly ruined your MJ......

just keep that in mind if it ever happens again...

a heat-soaked CPS will not start again until it cools.... heat doesn´t go away THAT fast...

840 pounds is like giving my fat cousins a ride... i have loaded mine with 1000 with no problems, if i only had the metric ton springs...

if you have spark, fuel and timing is right, something is wrong with the valve train...

because it´s a bad choice for a vehicle that is 99.99% likely to be abused with big tires and heavy off roading... as for the OP question, try swaping a later 88-91 renix ECU, some say the have a better fuel curve that will give a few more horses...

save the BA10/5 for some poor ZJ with a bad 42RE, i have seen many ZJs in good shape being thrown to the trash because the transmision suddenly loses 4th gear and Reverse...