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I've worked with Spencer on several projects and will recommend him to anyone. Spencer can be reached at 860-529-2384. http://www.mahardesign.com

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ath=93_173

Grand Cherokee (ZJ) will not fit without modification. Any XJ Cherokee (regular Cherokee) from 84-2001 will bolt right up.

Rock Krawler Bomb Proof - $179

I had this issue before I went to my AGR setup. Those caps are not the cheapest either. After the 4th one I ended up putting a little chain on it so I didn't loose the cap any longer. I just used a self tapping screw directly into the top of the cap and than hooked the other end of the chain around the line.

Maybe a OME Coil Lift (OME lifts are expensive anyways); but you can lift a JK 2" for less than $130 with high quality parts..

The adjustment in the door itself is done by the 3 bolts with a plate inside the door that moves once you loosen the bolts. There are also shims placed behind the bolts/hinge. If you loosen the bolts you'll never get the door aligned correctly again as it's a trial by error method. Do as you please, but I'm just trying to save you a lot of work and a major headache.... Good luck finding a bolt/pin that is the correct size as the factory. It's some crazy size and I've yet to fine something that fits tight without slop. I can honestly have the doors off in less than 2 minutes doing it the way I have posted above. Back on in less than 5. No need to worry about loosing a pin or anything...

The trick is to not unbolt ANYTHING. Leave the door bolted to the hinge and do not unbolt it! If you take a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to the lower part of the hinge, you can simply than just knock it off with a hammer once it's cut. It's a bit hard to get in there, but if you take your time you can get to it with the dremel tool. All '90 and older jeeps I've ever seen have the pins pressed on from the top. Our '93 has the pass. side pin pressed in from the bottom thus it'll need welded. But if you just cut the hinge on the door without unbolting it you won't have a single issue with fitment issues. On my XJ I've not had an issue and the doors seal just fine and they have been modded for over 5 years. Yes I know the following photo's show the hinge with the door off of it, but just use them for reference for where to make the cut at. And one last tip... I've also cut the pin down once the doors are off so it fits just past the hinge. I've also rounded it a bit and taken a decent amount of sandpaper to the pin to help with lifting them on/off. Oh and something else... Don't cut any wires! There is a quick-disconnect behind the side kick panel that will also you to just undo the wiring harness and feed it threw the hole.

I'm not running LED's in the MJ yet, but on my XJ I had a similar problem. I ended up needing a different flasher. The LED's didn't pull enough load to make the flasher work. Once I swapped in a different flasher (electronic) I've not had any problems to date (been running them for 3+ years now). Don't know if it'll help or even related, but I got mine from Autozone. Part number EL12 (2 prong).

D44 out of a FSJ Waggy w/TNT truss system is going to be about the "easiest". Though it will change your front bolt pattern. As stated above the TJ Rubi D44 is just a D44 center w/D30 outers. Not worth the $$/time in my opinion. A JK D44 can be made to work rather easy as well; however hard to find and bring big $$$ (plus a lot wider track width).

Personally I think it's easier to pull it all as one than to spend the time separating the tranny & TC. As Pat said, pull the header panel/support/rad and it makes it much easier.

I got right at 6.5" lift with a decent set of 4+1 4WD packs w/AMC20 axle w/Rockcrusher perches (sat identical with the D35 I had in prior). A 6.5" coil made the front sit the same.

Mean Green used to make a dual battery kit (however they have discontinued it in the last year or so). Here is a pic to give you an idea of what it looks like installed.

Mine is close (color not quite the same). I do have stars on the doors; though they haven't been on the MJ in like 3 years...

Your JF and CT link's don't work for me. Why not just run the Detour's Backbone System? http://www.detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php Yeah I know it's kinda expensive; you can almost buy a winch bumper that that $$...

I can't recommend one, but I can recommend one NOT to go with... I've not had good experience with DAS on 3 separate occasions...

Don't blame you on that. Just didn't realize you were wanting to spend that much $$ I guess. Hope you found someone who has them on the shelf as they are on nationwide backorder from Superior at the moment...

May be of help... http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/serpbelt.html

Not true. Alloy USA (Ultra Axle, LLC) was purchased by Omix-Ada and is still running to this day. Alloy USA is associated with Precision Gear. Ten Factory is associated with Motive Gear. Motive Gear and Precision Gear are/never were to the best of my knowledge ever associated. Now you are correct saying that the "former employee's" Ron Stobaugh, Jeff Belknap and Derrin Roe of Alloy USA did move to Ten Factory/Motive once they sold off all their assets to Omix-Ada. But Alloy USA is still selling/producing shafts to this day via Omix.

Alloy USA has about the best warranty anymore (10 year) over any other manufacture. Their kits also include the bearings/seals. They also have the dual bolt pattern on them (5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5) so if you ever wanted to upgrade for some crazy reason... ALY12135 can be had for $350...

Being someone who runs both the RK and the RE and being someone who sells both the RK and the RE I'd hands down pick the RK one's. Solid stock (no tubing) and best warranty in the industry. RK can be had for $385 for the full set. You can't even get the fixed length RE (non-adjustable's) for that price, let along the adjustable's...

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/injectors.html

Here is mine using a spray can. Still holding up like it was just done 3+ years later.

Specs - http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... &chapter=0