LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

Talk with Spencer at JeepSticker.com. Great guy to work with and can do just about anything you want/need.

Pics/Vids can be seen here; http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/ind ... D=25651715

Nothing special but I made one to attach the tow bar to for when I flat tow. I'm using C4x4 Tow Hooks/Brackets than just added a cross brace to attach the tow bar brackets. I just used flat stock and than added a few bolts/spacers to tie it into the factory front cross-rail.

Got a few things done over the past few days trying to get it ready to go wheeling this weekend. AMC 20 swap is done and in. Found a slight leak with the new hard brake lines that I need to fix yet, but other than that it's in. Also got the Rockcrusher D30 cover painted and installed. Also got the new crossover steering finished and installed. Loaded and ready to go!

The "banjo" I'm referring to is the side that goes into the drum. The other end that attaches to the soft line at the "T" is just a normal flare fitting.

Pretty sure they are banjo's. It's on an AMC 20. The flare has 2 holes in the end (aka banjo in my book).

It's an AMC 20 out of another MJ (1986). So it's got the same WMS needed to match the built D30 I have in the front. And it's got 4.10's already installed to boot (matches my D30). The MJ AMC 20 is unique in the fact that it was offered as a 1 piece shaft unlike the CJ AMC 20's. Stronger than a D44. And I like to be different; not a lot of guys building the 20's anymore...

Does anyone know where to get them? AKA I'm looking for a pre-bent set with the banjo's already on them. Do any local auto parts store (Napa, AutoZone, etc) carry them? I'd make them myself but I don't have the time as I'm trying to get an axle swap done prior to Friday so I can go wheeling this weekend...

Out with the Turdy5 and time for a real rear axle. Waiting on some parts for the AMC20 but hope to try to have it mocked up by tomorrow. Gonna try to get it in and done so I can go wheeling this weekend!

Uhm... they are already tilted "in" on your XJ... It's much easier to do on the MJ's since it's a rear frame. On the XJ's you need something that ties into the factory mounting location or the rear seatbelt bolts like the Cross Enterprises one does.

I have not confirmed every one listed, but I did this awhile ago based on the Monroe parts book. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/MJRearShock.htm

TJ Moabs will bolt up, JK Moabs will not. They are a 16" rim (thus making the rubber a bit more expensive). Depending on the wide of tire you run, you may need spacers. As long as you keep it under a 12.5" wide tire you should be fine.

All D30's in the Cherokee XJ's will bolt into your MJ; regardless of year. If your buying a D30 though I'd try to find one with the larger u-joints in it (aka typically '97+).

No. I've done it to all my CAD D30's without issues. It'll just make your front d-shaft spin while driving down the road (all '91+ XJ's and pre '91 with the 242TC do this anyways).

It doesn't, it's just 1997 and up (to 2001).

35's under Motion's 6.5" lift.

It typically not an issue of the coil spacer falling out as the factory snubber (aka upper bumpstop) will hold them in. It's more of an issue of the coil itself falling out as it has very little room up top.

Some new goodies (diff covers).

Here are MJ interior cages available. CLICK HERE

We've had a few Kodak's and they eat the batteries up FAST. Can't say I'm unhappy with them besides that though. EDIT: Yes we using the expensive Kodak brand rechargeable's (Ni-Mh).

http://jeeptv.com/video/8112 Available here

They have already got the JT, no need to design something new. Just ad the J8 (actually now being produced in Egypt by Chrysler) rear leaf sprung suspension to it and you'll be set. How about an email stating your interest for them to actually produce it. I hate to say it but sending emails with photo's of 18 year old plus Jeeps isn't going to do anything but annoy them.

If you broke the yoke on your axle input, than I'm assuming you dropped (or dragged) your d-shaft as well when you had that happen. With that being said I'd check your d-shaft as you could of damaged it at the joint, and/or trashed a u-joint that is causing the growling. I'd inspect the d-shaft first, than if that is fine pull the cover on the diff and inspect inside of it.

I feel like it was money well spent. I'd also recommend if you do the Hesco WP than also go with the Hesco Hi-Flow T-Stat housing as it's not much more...