triple4x4

Thanks I have looked there, and they do have a bulk head pin out but it only tells me the colors not what they go to. Thanks again.

I know this is not a Comanche wiring question, but I have a 1995 cherokee and I'm swaping a 5.7 engine into my cherokee. What I was wondering if any of you had a good source for the wiring diagrams for the engine bulk head connector. All i need are the gauge wires and the head light panal plug. I know one side controls the head lights but I'm not sure what side. Any help or advise wold be great. Thanks, Holden

Ya we could. I don't have my comanche up here yet, I have to go home and trailor it up here. I do have a red cherokee that runs around every now and then. Just let me know.

That I am. for 6 more weeks. Good old Laramie.

thank you for all the info. I think I will run 1.75 dom. sounds like the only way to go. thank you for all the advise. I still am looking for ideas on a cage. so If anyone out there has pictures or advise speak up. I will be sure and post pictures in the creation and the after math. Wyotech is not a bad school, I'm glad I came here and I do think if you want a good education , this is the place. but be prepared not to learn the advanced side of working on rigs, this school will teach you the basics. they have to think that everyone has not been around a tool in there life. to be hosest there a guys up here that don't know what an open wrench is. If you want a good eduaction and are smart not to come here and dick around this is a good school. but please don't come here as a jackass and destroy the name of wyotech.

That a good looking cage, but in my situation I can't buy a cage I have to make one from scratch. I am a student at wyotech and for a project I'm going to build a cage and try the 4 link idea, on my 88 comanche. I like the idea of 1.75 DOM, the instructors tell me I can use 1 5/8 EW tube. But from what I have see and read on here I'm thinking that 1.75 DOM is the way to go. How many feet are in that cage that you have posted if you know?

Hey thanks for the link. Would you mind if I used your bed cage to start a design for mine? What about any ideas for an interior cage. I would like to have something like a main hoop, a-piller runners, windshild bar, and some x bracing. Have you seen or done anything like that. I want this to be over built. Also what size tube and what kind would be better?

ya yours. I see you have a cage but did you buy it or build it where does it go in your cab?

Ya i saw your jeep and thats one bad comanche. I do like your spare tire rake and the back part of your cage. Is it very hard to get gear in and out of that box? Would you do anything dirrerent? Do you have an interior cage?

who is pete and how can I talk to him

I need some help. I'm looking for ideas on putting roll cage inside the cab and spare tire carrier in the bed, short bed, at an angle like a baja truck. Also any information on maybe a tri-four link in the front. any advise or input would be great. Thanks Holden

Would like to thank those who answered my question on the hard to start 88 mj. I changed the CPS and believe it took care of the problem. Thanks

It turns over just fine. It is a 4.0, put a fuel presure gage on the fuel rail turn the key presure comes up to 40psi, what the manual says it should be. After trying to start it, & then when I pull a plug it is dry. By primming, I put alittle gas down the intake, & she fires right up????????????

been a member for along time and enjoy it very much. The little mj is a sickness! & i got 3 !!!! anyhow this 88, aw4 has one hell of a time starting, if I prime it she fires up. fuel presure gage reads 39-40 psi, it is like the injectors are not openning. used injector cleaner, same thing. but when she get's going it runs like a raped ape, any info???????? thanks rick

If you get a good tech he can do it. when I pull windows that where already broke beyond repair I use to breack them and destroy the window to get them out. But if the tech takes their time and works slowly and smartly they can't take them out without breaking it. Some glass shops have a sawzall tool thing with a 3 or 4 inch blad the will cut the window form the urthane works slick as hell. If you you where close I would do it for you.