LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

Make sure you get it all, as the headlight buckets (and even the side indicator lights by the headlight bezel) are all different and do not interchange with the XJ/MJ. Your best bet is to take the entire thing (including cutting the wiring harness). Yes it bolts right upto the support.

When I swapped in a NP242 into my old MJ I used the ENTIRE 242 assembly (linkage, mount, etc) out of the XJ. I "think" I had to even trim some of the sheetmetal for clearance when mounting the new one up. I do recall that I couldn't get the 231 assembly to work correctly. It's been several years ago and that MJ is in a new owners hands so I can't get you a pic, but I do remember that I had to use the entire thing from the XJ for it to work properly.

It makes a HUGE difference. This is what happens due to tightening bolts with the Jeep still in the air (bushings go bad in about 6 months)

The 8.25" came in 2 versions based on the year of the XJ. Chrysler 8.25 - 27 spline, 1.17" diameter shafts, C-Clip, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube - used 1991-1996 Chrysler 8.25 - 29 spline, 1.21" diameter shafts, C-Clip, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube - used 1997-2001 Housings are identical among both versions. The shafts, and carrier (along with internals of carrier) are different. As to the 8.25" being better than the D35, it also depends on what D35 (2 versions came in the XJ's as well) they are referring to. The early models are non c-clip, where the later models are c-clip axles. I'd take an early non c-clip D35 over a 27 spline 8.25" any day. Here's the specs on the D35's in the XJ's. Dana 35 non c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 1984-1989 Dana 35 c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 1990-2001

Last I checked the bypass pulley is NLA from the dealer. They used to be worth their weight in gold for guys wanting to do the conversion and not having to "fix" the ac pump. Within the last 2 years aftermarket support has stepped up and you can now buy them new for about $25. eBay Link

I used it in all my road course track cars and swear by it. I'm a HUGE Redline fan. Water Wetter is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (read combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. An additional benefit of using Water Wetter (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from you engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages. Water Wetter does NOT increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling like in your pressure bottle on the Renix era 4.0L's). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in normal applications is primarily a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over stressed (climbing a hill on a hot day while on the trails), it will not boil over. On performance cars the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat. I just recently added it to the trail rigs but have not been out in them on the trails yet with the Water Wetter in it yet to give results from that. We'll see if running 100% water in addition to all the other cooling system mods I've done helps or hinders on the trails...

Microsoft Streets & Trips on the Laptop. We've got a handheld Garmin Extrex Legend and have been happy with it for Geocaching.

$25 in spray paint and 3 years later still looks great. It's all in how you prep and how you shoot it. I'll probably be doing it to my YJ here soon as well.

Went from OME's to them on the wife's XJ and love them. Worth the money spent on them.

Yes it is. I agree it looks good, but sometimes on the trails it plays with your eyes and you think your going crazy. :hmm: And Pete, Bob's got a few big dings in the bed now. I'll let him tell ya how he did it. :rotfl2:

Not mine, a local club members. He goes by rjontzen on here... More pics can be found here; http://greatlakesxj.com/photos.html He's been to almost every event, so you should be able to see pics of his rig in each section.

RE 5.5" on 33" tires. Same white one, next to green one on Motion 6.5" w/35's, red one is 6.5" w/33's, and blue on is I think 5" on 33's. I've got tons of pics of the white MJ with the RE 5.5" on 33's if you want more...

Yes the 8.25" was available with a factory LSD (called a Track-Lok). Also for the record Trac-Lok is a limited slip clutch driven, True-Lok is a limited slip gear driven. From the factory on the XJ it came with a Track-Lok if it has the limited slip option. Extra friction modifier should not be added if the oil already has it in it; as that can cause the gears to run hotter and the LSD to chatter. The exact viscosity of the GL-5 gear lube is not as important as it being rated GL-5 or GL-6. If you live in a colder climate, choose a lower viscosity like 70W-80, 75W-90, 90, etc. If you tow, wheel in very tough environments or it gets very hot, a higher viscosity like 80W-120, 80W-140 etc. is recommended. Personally, I now believe in using a non-synthetic gear lube for my axles with recent revelations that the gears run cooler in a non-synthetic gear lube than the do in a synthetic gear lube. That's probably not a big deal if you don't wheel in tough conditions but if you do... Some gear oils have the friction additive already in it, some do not. If it does not you'll need to add 4 oz. of friction modifier separately. Only way to tell is to read the bottle. EDIT: Per your request here is a pic of an 8.25" Track-Loc in my wife's XJ.

What you gain in length you loose in spline engagement. So it's really a wash and not worth it as it actually does not do anything to make it longer.

The gear ratio for the rear end is also stamped on the passengers side axle tube (cause the tag on the cover isn't always there, or if it is it's hard to read). I have yet to get my hands on a MJ/XJ D44 with 4.10's in it, so I do not have those numbers (nor do I know if they were even offered from the factory that way). MJ: 3.07 Gear Ratio = 605325-12 3.54 Gear Ratio = 605325-10 XJ: 3.07 Gear Ratio = 605342-1 3.54 Gear Ratio = 605342-3 Hope it helps for future reference.

Those are the front's and we do not have the rears on our website.

Yes they are, just not heavy duty one's (aka a new shaft) like for the NP231. Their are several "hack-n-tap" NP242 SYE setups on the market.

Those "crappy brackets" are control arm drop brackets. Why do you want them gone? They lower the mounting location of the control arm, thus decreasing the angle that your control arms are at. This in return makes it ride much better in the front. Many will gladly loose a bit of ground clearance with control arm drop brackets to get the better ride. If you take them off and move your control arms back up you'll notice a big difference in ride quality. Personally I'd leave them but that's just me...

21 and 23 spline has nothing to do with 4cyl vs. 6cyl. It has to do with the year. Mid 1990 was the change over year to the larger spline.

Doing SOA in the rear isn't gonna give you 3" of lift, your gonna get more like 6" of lift...

Found some time today to install the rear shocks. I had to get creative with the mounting of the resivours. Ended up making a truss that went off the gas tank mount to mount them up and out of the way. Now I also have a place to mount some rock lights for night crawling down the road at somepoint. Not the best pics, but at least shows what I did.

That switch is only for the AW4 tranny/TCU. If your going to a manual it won't work anyways...

I'm running AutoPals and love them. My write-up and review can be found here; http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/for ... D=15250394

My XJ: My MJ: