jimoshel

He left out the part where I walked across water to greet them. :rotf: Always enjoy meeting folks and saying HI!. :thumbsup: And I am tiffed about the CC TShirt. Looked right at it when I was getting dressed and didn't put it on. :cheers:

It bolts to the frame. The track bar mounts to the bottom of it.

I recently purchased a 1986 XJ with the sole purpose of flipping it for a quick buck. Took it out for a test drive, after buying it, and experienced the worst case of DW I have ever come across. Tearing into it I came across what the following pics show. Several of the nuts were so loose I was able to remove them just using my fingers. Apparently the PO was aware of it as indicated by the half assed welds and no attempt to replace the missing pieces. Thinking about taking it out and wrecking it and then suing the PO for deliberately and knowingly selling a defective and dangerous auto. I would also like to find a good pic host site. I tried for over a half hour to use PhotoBucket with no success, as usual. Finally created a Craigslist ad and copied the photos from it. Gotta go delete it now.

Never mind the models. Where can I get a set of those tracks at? :yes:

I've heard of dyes but never used any so can't vouch or recommend them. First eyeball it. One of the reasons for a baby butt clean surface. Then magna-flux.

ads not by this site Click to view larger image Have one to sell? Sell it yourself Pro-Line Jeep Comanche Clear Full Bed Pickup Body for Rock Crawlers PRO336200 | Add to Watch list Seller information rcboyz (419798 ) 100% Positive feedback Save this seller See other items Visit store: RCBoyz AdChoice - opens in a new window or tab Item condition: New Time left: 12d 02h (Apr 07, 2013 20:37:26 PDT) Price: US $43.95 Buy It Now Add to cart Add to Watch list Join eBay Bucks and earn 2% back on this item. See conditionsfor eBay Bucks - opens in a new window or tab Shipping: $8.95 Standard Shipping | See details Item location: Salt Lake City, Utah, United States Ships to: Worldwide See exclusions Delivery: Estimated on or before Mon. Apr. 01 to 81004 Payments: | See details Returns: 14 days money back or item exchange, buyer pays return shipping | Read details Learn moreabout eBay Buyer Protection - opens in a new window or tab People who viewed this item also viewed Feedback on our suggestions Pro-Line 336000 Ford F-150 Svt Raptor Cle... $19.45 Free shipping Pro-Line 323831 Vw Clear Body 1/16 E-Revo $19.29 Free shipping Pro-Line 336200 3362-00 Jeep... $42.89 Free shipping Pro-Line 339500 Bulldog Clear Body B44.2 $21.22 Free shipping Print - opens in a new window or tab | Report item - opens in a new window or tab Description Shipping and payments 230942992854 Item number: Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Item specifics Condition: New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item (including handmade items). See the seller's listing ... Read moreabout the condition Combined Shipping: Available - See Below Fuel Source: Electric Part: Bodies For Vehicle Brand: Any Brand For Vehicle Type: Truck MPN: PRO336200 Scale: 1:10 Brand: Pro-Line UPC: 675118157108 RCBoyz Visit my eBay store Sign up for newsletter REVO/T-Maxx/E-Maxx Parts HPI Car/Truck Parts Associated Car/Truck Parts

There was a recent discussion on available model MJ'S. I couldn't find it so will just start a new thread. Found on ebay. g-code:1.5:1:1:1 Pro-Line Jeep Comanche Clear Full Bed Pickup Body for Rock Crawlers *NEW* PRO336200 This is the Pro-Line PRO336200 Jeep Comanche Full Bed 12.3" Clear Body for the Axial SCX10 and other scale crawlers with a 12.3" (313mm) wheelbase. Jeep fans rejoice! Pro-Line is pleased to announce the release of the 1982-1992 Jeep Comanche one-piece body for 1:10 Scale and Crawler rigs (12.3" wheel base). Again, with over the top detail, Pro-Line brings another iconic crawler back to life for the 1:10 Scale Builders. This Jeep Comanche body is constructed out of a single piece of high quality Lexan, so you don’t have to mess with multiple body pieces. This gets you out crawling faster!!!! **The body is supplied unpainted (the picture of the painted body is only shown to give you an idea of the shape of the body) and include decals, window masks, and protective overspray film.**

Very first thing to do is check compression.Even reading between cylinders is more important than high-low readings. A far out reading is a clue as to what and where to look for, Remove the head. On the '92 sometimes one of the back bolts won't come out. Not enough clearance between it a nd firewall. Pull it up as high as it will go and hold it with a clothes pin. Clean the top of the block and mating surface of the head. Important that it be clean. Inspect for cracks and indications of coolant leaking into a cylinder. Use a straight edge to measure if block or head is warped. Any gap between straight edge and block, head surface should be less than .003 inch.

How tall is the wife? I have a '99XJ that's been rolled. If she's 5ft or less, no problem. If taller than 5ft, may have to take a jack and push the roof up a little. Run's good. :thumbsup: :yes:

Out of 12 MJ'S only 3 is 4WD. If I ever get the conversion I started last fall finished it will be 4. Out of 16 XJ,WJ and ZJ only 1 is 2WD, 1 J10 and 2 J20'S all 4WD. 5 S10'S, all 4WD. I just thought it was interesting.

Back up light switch?

One engine I've always thought was under rated was the 230 OHC made back in the early 60's. Was originally designed for A/C use as well as automobile, Was primarily meant for the home built air craft movement with hopes of eventually selling it to commercial airplane builders. Unfortunately never panned out.

I don't even go to a regular JY any more. One of the reasons i started my own, plus I just enjoy tearing things apart. At the P&P a engine is $249. No difference if it's a 4-6 or 8 cylinder, Ford,GM or Toyota. At the JY it's depends on year, make, engine with prices running from $400 to $1200. At the P&P you're free to roam the whole yard. At a JY you don't go past the counter. At the P&P it's "hey Jim, How ya doin"? At the JY it's "What do you want"?

THIS!! My 90 nearly got me killed on several occasions because of a bad ground. For me it was very intermittent, but when it had its little fits it would buck, kick, snort, backfire (literally blew apart my muffler) and just about every other god awful thing. Turned out to be the ground at the bottom of the dipstick, nut was three turns from falling completely off and was covered in oil and grime. After thoroughly cleaning said stud and connectors and retighting ALL symptoms went away and never have returned. This was after spending nearly a grand on other sensors and shop labor. :wall: Long story short CHECK YOUR GROUNDS! I wouldn't bother checking any grounds. Just disassemble, clean, reassemble.All of them.

Offer him $200. Pointing out ALL the faults youve posted here. From your description of the truck I would offer $150-$200 as is but would go as high as $400. Knowing the location would help. A $200 rust free junker in Colorado would be worth $600-800 in the rust belt. Screw, bolt holes are a pain in the butt but they can be repaired a darn sight easier than rust holes.

They didn't design it as a slant 6. It was so unbalanced it kept leaning over.

We all get heavier as we get older, because there's a lot more information in our heads. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Tnx Guys. Just what I was lookin' for. :thumbsup:

After trying for an hour and coming up with nada using the search function, I'll try this. Does anyone have a link to adding hydraulic cylinders to the MJ hood? I've already got a dozen cylinders out ready to see what I can come up with. Just don't want to re invent the wheel if it's already been done. One thing I'm worried about is using a too strong cylinder and buckling the hood. I will be experimenting on a wrecked XJ before I actually try a MJ. :dunno: :hmm:

What cylinders are used for a hydraulic hood conversion? I've thought about this using the cylinders from a XJ tail hatch. Since the hood is lighter than the tail gate, could using just one work? Curious minds, and folks to lazy to find out for themselves want to know.

Very enjoyable reading. However I feel I must point out that despite it's greatness, I don't believe just one 4.0 could have powered the Titanic. Would have took at least two.

Pee on any and everything that can be rusted, eroded, corroded or just plain jambed up.

Remove all the paint first. Get down to bare metal. The welds will show up easier.

Don't knock it. It works.

I can't believe this weather. 6 inches of snow, 3 foot drifts, 20 knot wind gusting to 45. -6 below. Makes me wonder what it's like outdoors.