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Everything posted by jimoshel
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Generally once a JY gets a vehicle they can't sell it complete. Only parts from it. Won't hurt to try tho.
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Any time you find a discrepancy in a legal document, title, registration, deed, whatever, get it corrected ASAP. Sooner or later, somebody down the line is going to notice it and the longer time passes the harder it will be to correct. People move die etc, etc..
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You didn't purge the cooling system. It's full of air bubbles. Remove the temp sending unit, left rear on top of head. I loosen it, leaving about one thread holding it. Remove cap from pressure tank. Keep tank full. Start engine. Now remove or loosen sending unit wait till a steady flow of coolant comes out. No bubbles. Start unit back in hole. Shut off engine. Finish tightening sending unit. Hook wire back up. You did remove the wire before unscrewing unit didn't you? Should be ready to go.
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High Alt CPS.. question
jimoshel replied to Blue88Comanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
When I was a kid, Well,,,I was at one time,,one of the tricks we used to get that little extra was advance the timing and stretch the springs to get a earlier spark advance. My '38 Chevy running a 260 Jimmy called for 6 degrees at idle with 12 degrees at 3000RPM. Advancing the spark 1 1/2 degrees for every thousand feet in altitude came out to 14 degrees at idle and 20 degrees at 3K. Woe upon the guy driving down to the flatlands and forgot to retard the timing. With all the computer crap I wonder how many guys, and gals, even know how to set a set of points or check the timing any more. :wrench: -
An interesting example of the growth of technology and the necessity of constantly upgrading your skills. 1986 Comanche FSM and Electrical trouble shooting 1989 Comanche FSM, FSM supllement and wiring diagrams 1993 Grand Cherokee FSM and supplements.
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Another method I've used when all else didn't. Screw a nut onto the stud. Weld it. Wait for stud to cool. Now heat manifold while trying to remove stud.
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Had something like that a couple weeks ago. '87 MJ, 4.0L. Soaked with penetrating oil for a week before tried removing. Double nuts trick and stud removal tool. No work. Tried heating with torch. Nothing. Finally had the studs wore down till they were flush with the manifold. Removed manifold. Drilled out center of studs. Tried EZ Out. Ground hole out in one. Snapped EZ Out off in the other. Threw manifold into scrap and replaced with another one.
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The memory is kind a fuzzy, but that first tool looked like the cleaning-maintenance tool for the BAR. Could also be used on the M1 for removing the gas plug.
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If you've replaced the caliper more than once then you may have another problem. Bad brake pads, slave cyl. or just maybe a loose suspension part.Suggest you jack it up, front wheels hanging free, and give it a thorough eyeball , shake, pry inspection.Look at all mounting points for wear, rub marks. Wheel bearings for proper adjustment.
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If you want to do it, then it's worth it. Disc will help a little but in my opinion not enough to justify the cost or trouble. That's assuming your brakes are working OK now. If you need new brakes then do it.
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Try your dealer. I understand they quit ordering-getting them but he might have one on the shelf. OEM HiAltitude CPS PN#53005421. Otherwise try AutoZone.
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Your going to need a amp meter. A light bulb can be used but their harder to use and get results with. Remove one of the terminals from the battery, Insert the meter between the battery post and loose cable. Go to the power distribution center or main fuse block. Start pulling fuses.
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Swap ya a '88 XJ tail light straight across for what you got.
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Would the rear slave cylinders allow both sides of the master cylinder drain? No. There is a seal between the two master cylinders. Both seals would have to go bad. You will notice one of the master cylinders is larger than the other. That one is for the rear brakes. The smaller reservoir is for the front brakes. That is, if you have disc brakes in front and drum in back. Normal shoe wear will lower the fluid level. Not empty the reservoir.
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I thought I'd put all that behind me when i got rid of all my toys, RC planes and HO railroad. Looks like I'm gonna be heading to the Hobby shop today. Thanks a lot Rob, ol buddy. Hope I get a chance to do the same for you someday.
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It can drain back into the booster, both seals bad in MC but that is very improbable. Pull the vacuum line from the booster and see if there is any trace of fluid. Recheck your wheel cylinders. A leak that slow would get covered up with fresh brake dust and not show as a fresh leak.
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Good Deal? (again)
jimoshel replied to ftpiercecracker1's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Not great. Not bad. Just fair. -
axle shafts wont go in fully
jimoshel replied to MancheKid86's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Did you check the spiders- axles for fit before assembling? Is the Cavity for the bearing race clean? -
Those are maps specially made up by the US Army as information-souvenier items for military libraries. They were not meant for public disemination although there was no law or penalty for doing so. That was the site of one of the bloodiest and stupidest campaigns of the entire war. They would really be valuable if they showed the different units and their positions. It was also one of the last battles where French and American forces fought together. That particular area is a couple miles N of the 38th parallel in central Korea.
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Paint. Convert, Auto parts store.
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I'd settle for just a tailgate :oops: Come get it, it's yours.Red or White? Bingo! Actualy it's not completely empty. Still got 8 MJ'S and a bunch of XJ'S and and ZJ'S. Also found another MJ. Going down Sat and look at it. What in H*ll is it about collecting things?
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Or at least not as many as yesterday. Some of you might remember a couple months ago me worrying about what would happen to my MJ'S when I took the big one. GF plainly stated that she call a portable crusher in and clean the yard. Threats of coming back and haunting her didn't faze her. For the last month I've been negotiating with a auction outfit down near Phoenix. They specialize in collector car auctions and have a facility where they clean them up and do any repairs needed to bring a better price. Seems business has been a little slow and they were looking for some way to keep the guys in the shop busy. Long story short. Last night a mobile parking lot and a box truck showed up. About an hour ago they left, taking with them 8 MJ'S, 1 '46 CJ2, 2001WJ, '48 Triumph 650, '52 Ariel square 4 and a bunch of parts. Only been gone an hour and I miss them already. Wiping away a tear. Altho my pain is eased somewhat by a nice check. :cry:
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Inside measurements, taken at top of bed. In inches. Length=72,5 Width=55 height=16.5 Width of rail, side=2.75 Width of rail, front=1.75
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There is one aspect here no one has mentioned yet. Are you ready to take a life if necessary? There are many cases on record where someone pulled a gun on a mugger, rapist, home breaker what ever and didn't use it. They then had the gun taken away from and used on them. Just something to think about.
