carnuck

I would have gone to a TBI from an S10 while you’re at it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right above the gas pedal is a heater vacuum control that gets the hose knocked off easily and then it won’t switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My SOA rear kept the original shock position but I went slightly longer shocks at first and just welded on shock mounts. I had planned to use the anti-swaybar plates that I saved from the front of a Jtruck to put between the bottom of the spring pack and top of the axle mount but since my axle doesn’t have mounts yet, I’m going to make some with the mounting hole already in it. Front antisway bar plates. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would hook the 727 I have to my 304 to put in one but I already went with AW4 trying this a few years ago. 904 is pretty weak unless it’s really a 999 updated setup. Unless this is for a Chevy swap with 80-82 AMC Eagle or CJ 4 cyl 904 (Chevy small block pattern bell) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would go with propane for carbed off-roading but the AX15 will handle the 283 easy enough. Much as I dislike integral slaves, this would be where I’d put one but run only the good fluid in it. Keeping the V8 motor cool has been the hardest problem to deal with in the past. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine still does. 220,000 on the truck (towed by a motorhome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To avoid copycats. The sliders I have for my J10 were like that too. Killer32 (taken over by bjsoffroad but good quality custom made for the full size Jeeps) no close up pics before I got them but perfect fit and I considered some for my Comanche before Scottie got sick (Don’t weld galvanized without proper ventilation! And protection ) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It will partially depend on your own ability and what you can do of the lift yourself. I started mine before getting my cabin but after I already had a longbox ‘86 2wd with a home made spring lift converted to 4x4. I used the “booster” leaf from my Jeep J10 in the rear (thicker with built in curve) to get 3” of lift out of the factory leaf sags, I mean springs. It rode like a rock but cleared 235/75R/15s no problem and the TBI 2.5 with 5 speed and 4.10s cruised with 3” ZJ coils in front but it rode like a rock. Doing an SOA in the rear with 33/9.50/15s was good with 4.0L and 5 speed with 3.73s but I lost power and fuel economy when I went to automatic until I dropped to 235/75R/15s to tow an Eagle SX4 back from near the CA border. The end plan was 4.10s but then I became too sick to work on it. The front was lifted with 7” TJ coils (unsure what brand but they weren’t as stiff as the ZJ 6” ones I swapped them for), an adjustable tracbar, extended lower arms, shock extensions, YJ brake hoses and a late 90s XJ booster with new master cylinder. I removed the load sensor and went directly to the axle hose. The type of brake materials you use will affect your overall braking ability as well. I ended up with just enough lift that the 235s looked too small for the truck unless it was loaded. Later I added rear Metric tonne springs to calm the towing wigwag and a 2” receiver hitch. My icon photo above is that truck in 2003 or so with LT255/85R/16s on ZJ alloys. The metric equivalent to 33/10.50/15s but it touched the lower arms on full turns and hitting bumps. I didn’t know about the WJ curved lower arms at the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How about a ‘79 4 eye Mustang with roller cam 5.0L and T5 (was a turbo 4 cyl) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One of the “nice” things about this group is Tapatalk let’s you post with the permissions set up by Alexia and our fearless leaders. Mucho appreciado. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For mine I will eventually use a PTO cable or similar in the tcase because the factory shifter sits under my left knee with the seat all the way back and gives me leg pains. The mini console is even a pain ita and when I got my parts rig (Floor so rusty that the tcase shifter and what was left of the floor moved together and the left rear spring eye rotted off the pack) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The CJ7s were the ones with 904 and D300 tcase after ‘80 till ‘86 when they were done and the YJs came out but the 904s, like the 4x4 Jeep 727s were all 23 and not 21 spline. YJs were too short to run the AW4 and the same with TJs till after ‘99. The same with 42RE (904 with overdrive and electronic controlled valvebody) AW4 has 21 spline from ‘87 til 08/90 with all Jeep motors. The 904 (or 909 if it’s a lockup) was on the 4 cyl till MPFI in the MJs and XJs. Possibly a little earlier on the 2.5L but those AW4s were 21 spline with a .70 O/D and 4.10 gears. I’ve been looking for the 4 cyl AW4 for my Comanche so I could rebuild my 2.5L motor and have automatic O/D since driving a stick still hurts my previously broken tailbone. The AW4 on HO 4.0L (09/‘90 and up) had a .75 O/D and 23 spline but around ‘96 (OBDII) they added a centering pilot shaft to the output of the Grand Cherokee and some XJs transmissions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Editing to fix my timeline mistake: The YJ 3 speed auto 904 is a backwards move for a 4.0L because they suck up power and have no overdrive. The only reason I wanted one for my MJ with 2.5L is because it’s easier to bolt up since I already have the flex plate for 904 with Renix TBI. I looked up the info on YJs because I was told the first ones had Dana 300s with passenger side drop and wrong spline count, but that was wrong info. It was ‘80+ CJ7s with 904/D300 combo. The ‘91 up 32RE (904 or 909) in 4 cyl YJs has a different sensor than Renix years and the sensor hole changed again for OBDII. I have a 999 (32RE) bare case from a ‘99 TJ with 4.0L with valvebody in my for sale stuff. I used the internals to build the 998 in my AMC Eagle 15 years ago. It has the pill bottle style HO sensor and hole. The alignment of the early HO flexplate to the OBDII pill bottle style tone ring is offset different. You can’t use an HO sensor with Renix flexplate or vice versa. I built a 998 (32RH) into a 999 for my Eagle wagon before 1999 (when I found frame rot in both the Eagle wagon and then the ‘83 full size Cherokee a year later after I put in the Eagle’s Mexican 282 with the beefed up 998) The 999 had the better, stronger torque converter and front pump design with bolt in rear sprague but the valvebody was Computer controlled, so I still have the bare 4.0L 32RE case and valvebody from the ‘99 TJ. The lockup converter was the only thing Computer controlled, but I wanted that hooked to a manual switch so it wouldn’t engage while towing or on steep hills on the highway while loaded. The later TJ and Mopar 32RE valvebodies had an issue with clogging up and either not engaging O/D at all or staying engaged and stalling when you came to a stop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the Utilitech LED 12vdc with 110 work lamp. We used it with my almost 20 year old jumper pack to light up under the house and at my cabin to light the yard to do work for almost an hour. I have a bracket to mount it inside the cab with a flip down to shine into the bed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depends how crazy you want to get. I picked up a 110vac/12vdc shop light from Lowe’s. It has a built in transformer from 110 to 12V and it’s 10 watts with a pigtail that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I recently used it at my cabin to empty a bunch of stuff before the tweakers tried to move in again. I got my generator and some other goodies away then found it broken into when I went back a couple days later. They didn’t get much other than my O2 bottle (and left the full one behind) and the upright part of my manual tire machine. (I have the rest of the parts needed for it so it’s useless to them) They got a dying 700 watt inverter (I got a 1400 watt replacement for $35) They didn’t get the dvr but I had to reposition the cameras to catch better video for proof to the police about who’s doing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

100% agree on that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check across the elements for 220 from one element to the other. If no go then the neutral may be missing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The picture is just small enough to not tell if it’s rodent damage or melting or a combo. It looks like there was something hot on top or maybe they had a halogen light sitting there too long. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do we get around this message? Okay, so quoting it shows in Tapatalk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think Faux Doh Buggit may be coming around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My ‘86s bench was comfy to CO and back but none since then. Most sit too low for me at 6 feet tall so I plan a taller setup soon for mine. If I’m lucky I’ll find a low rust longbed soon so I can eventually make an extended cab. Buckets are fine for my Jtruck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isn’t there a sticky that discusses the needed stuff for 2wd to 4wd? Things like changing a 2wd trans into a 4wd trans requires total dismantling of the trans to swap the output shaft to a 4x4 one. Tcases from 86 to 08/90 build date MJs are 21 spline except 4x4 (904 based are the same as 727 on V8) 3 speed automatics which kept to 23 spline short output to the tcase. ‘86 MJs (and prior XJs) with 3 speed auto ran NP229 or NP228 selectrac tcases. Full size Jeeps used the same cases plus a NP208AM which was 5” shorter and fixed yoke front and rear. All 3 of those cases were built to handle AMC V8s in Grand Wagoneers. 4x4 transmission info: ‘87 to 08/90 AW4s are 21 spline, as are BA10/5 used till mid ‘89. The AX-4 and AX-5 are 21 spline all years. 904 auto (or 909 if it’s lockup) is 23 spline short output. AW4 in the HO years is 23 spline. AX-15 is 23 spline all years afaik. Okay. I wandered from the original thought again. I think my mind is too small to go out by itself these days. **sigh** SQUIRREL! Wiring systems are considerably different from Renix to HO. As for fuel, even the 4 cyl TBI pump won’t deliver enough pressure to run the 4.0L Renix system and the HO is slightly higher pressure than Renix MPFI which can cause running issues with some conversions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Driveshaft shop here in Seattle called it a tube inside a tube with a condom between and the petroleum based lube destroys the rubber over time. (However accidentally it gets lubed, time and wear affect it too ) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the bigger one with shorter cable. I tossed the package but it was originally listed for a GM G body car. I’ll see if the Motormite number is still on it. (I was still working for Schucks CSK in ‘03 when I bought it) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn’t suggest doing it, but a Caddy 4.1, 4.5 or 4.9 Northstar will bolt up to the 60 degree bell (trans won’t last long either) I saw a couple of the early XJs with T4 or T5s in them but those weren’t World Class either. (I know where there is a 2wd WC X tagged T5 but it has a Ford Roller 5.0 in front of it with a carb in a ‘79 Mustang 4 eye. The 80 to Early ‘83 AMC Eagles and some CJs came with 2.5 Iron Duke which had SBC 90 degree pattern bolted to T4/5 or 904 automatics. It’s the simplest way to go for a 283 V8 or 4.3L V6 swap. Chev ran 700R4s and T5s behind the 2.8 in early S10 and T10 Blazers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk