carnuck

Seattle isn't that close I guess. Last time I drove to SLC was 2002 on my way to Ouray

Cherokee harness is the same

are you tired of what the government is doing to us? (Both sides) On Oct 13th at noon, let them know you are mad as hell and not going to take it anymore! Honk for freedom at noon on Sunday Oct 13th to support the Million Truckers roll on DC for freedom. They got the Mainstream Media to ignore the million bikers on 9/11 but we can't let them ignore this! https://www.facebook.com/groups/197571583749334/ https://www.facebook.com/events/622033431151094/ Don't post your anger here. Let them know that when it comes to politics you think they blow!

'91 rad and all heater hoses works fine. I put a "universal" vacuum heater switch on. Aside from taking a few minutes running to engage, it's fine.

I have the matching box to that for sale in Seattle (no frame under it) Take off the rear bumper and the front should drop down. Is the spare still under the back as well?

spring pad thickness x 2 (you are moving it from the bottom of one to the top of the other), thickness of the axle tube plus the thickness of the spring pack. This is metric tonne pack on a shortbox with 2200lbs of wet gravel. and empty (below)

The return line from the rear gets air in it and has to be loosened to get it out or swap to a 2 line valve from an XJ

Wait a sec! Do NOT put the gear oil in the master cyl! It needs Castrol GTLMA or synthetic brake fluid. Regular brake fluid eats up the REAL rubber seals in these master and slave cyls! You need to change the oil in the trans to Redline MTL 75-140 or thinner to make it shift when it starts freezing out. The wrong oil makes it hard to shift when cold and beats the snot out of your synchros!

oh yuck! I guess I'll pass!

Agreed on that. The Kia Soul is almost less aerodynamic than the Comanches. I've even been looking for an early one with a blown motor to make a mini pickup out of.

I'd sooner put a Kia Soul direct injected motor in. One in my wife's car gets almost as loaded as my truck (5 adults and luggage) and still gets 30 mpg and flies down the highway!

I took a 60 gallon plastic barrel and put it in the back of my truck. Filled it with water from a local well and used the tap on the side to hook to my pressure washer with my power inverter at my cabin. I need to do that again to get the green stuff off the walls. My well is almost done now so I'll have my own water.

My '87 had the clutch safety switch. First wiring "fix" I did when I got the truck was bypass that. (my slave cylinder had gone out and I was synchro driving to and from work in Bellevue, WA till I remembered my Uncle Red telling me that Crisco cooking oil or similar was thicker and didn't leak. I filled it only 3 times then didn't need to do it again until after the pilot bearing seized itself to the trans input shaft making my truck jump forward and nearly plow into the new Mercedes that was in front of me. That said, $60 gets the known good Renix engine harness for manual trans delivered in the US (complete up to the C101 connector) Not sure where I put the other part but I plan to make a quick connect for HO wiring swap from it.

I found one in a shortbox MJ in Olympic 4x4 for $130. Turned out it was a modded CJ bar and the truck was a bobbed longbed! :doh: I'll make it fit soon enough. Making it removable too so the canopy can still go on.

I picked up a rollbar and push bar.

I have the mounting kit for that (I already dinged my new black bumper dang it)

clean all your connections and spray them with contact cleaner now and avoid trouble later!

I swapped mine out to put in the AW4 (90 harness with no C101 connector problem child)

Wait what? AMC V8 has the same pattern as '72 up AMC 6 cyls, not any Chrysler motor. I'm bolting an AW4 to my 401 I just got yesterday (wrapped up in an '82 Wagoneer body I gave my buddy for the paperwork cost. It's getting a carbed 4.0L and AW4 with NV242 and the 727 is going behind my 304 in my '68 Travelall with a Dodge NP208, but I digress) The 401 is going into my '83 Honcho stepside. '96 is the WORST year for wiring problems due to Chrysler playing mixnmatch with sensors for OBDII

'91+ XJs had lots of them too. I scored the chrome grill and extended bumper from the '86 I parted (wish I'd kept the 4.10 front/rear diff!) and I have spare red doors with chrome handles and mirrors from a '91 XJ I parted.

J20 would barely handle the extra weight. I almost bought a Dodge LCF (low cab forward) 5 ton with one. VERY low revving, slow and not very powerful compared to modern engines.

I grew up on a farm and synchro driving is just second nature. When the slave blew out on my '86 while on the way to Ouray, CO in 2002, no-one had the part or kit to overhaul it so I synchro drove the rest of the way there and back to Seattle. Adding fluid only for in town (max 5 de-clutches before it was gone) and the mountains while wheeling. Top that with death wobble and you can see we had a fun trip. (a CSK delivery truck hit us while I was finding out about the slave kit. I worked for the company at the time)

I found a Nissan SD33 (wish it was T for turbo) for $2500 with the 727 I considered for a micro second along with the O/D you can bolt between the trans and tcase (by moving everything back 12") They also used 4 cyl diesels in Datsun pickups, most have fallen from the frame of rot. Then I considered a Volvo turbo diesel with the AW4 version automatic bell grafted to a Jeep AW4. Lots in boat yards with rotten hulls but engine mods needed for non-stationary use. Audi diesel RWD engines (5 and 6 cyl) came with a variety of transmissions. Toyota 2LT and bigger were used with AX-15 and AW4 variants.

swaybar frame bracket idle air controller The last coil looks like a dead Honda or Toyota one.

I'd probably be getting 17 mpg with the load but it really needs 4.10s to get there.