carnuck

I agree on the balancer. When I did my homemade front shock extenders on my Comanche (shocks were brand new so I threaded 2 pieces of pipe to screw on and an exhaust stud for the bushings on top), I undid the 2 bolts holding the master to the booster and lifted it slightly (gently bending the brakelines) The pull and wobble means it's time for a wheel alignment. I wonder if the original balljoint was bent or possibly a camber adjusting version?

This past month my 4.0L auto 87 Comanche has been running about 12 mpg, but since more than 1/2 the time it's had a motor (plus my toolbox and helper) and I've been dragging other cars around at the same time. (It would be better if I had the 4.10s instead of the current 3.73s with automatic, 5 1/2" lift and 33" tires) Last night I worked on putting the rear axle in my '82 Eagle wagon and found out the XJ 8.25 I put in was longer at the pinion and the 2" (really, just return to stock height without the factory air shocks) "lift" I put in wasn't enough to use the original driveshaft anymore. The ujoint was different too. I couldn't tie up the shop's rack any longer, so I towed it home. Since it was raining, I'm glad I had the 440/727 in the back (they are for sale!) for ballast (plus my toolbox, towbar and helper as usual) The AW4 protested a little bit on the 20% grade hill, but only from a standstill.

I have 2 things against the current bunch of Jeeps. A: They are butt ugly. B: They are outrageously expensive. The reason the early Cherokees and Wranglers sold so good was that they were affordable without a million bells and whistles to go wrong. What happened to this vision? Soccer moms don't have a ton of money to spend with the economy going the way it is and neither do I. I bought my wife a Kia Soul that gets 35 mpg average. It doesn't have 4x4, but it almost feels like it is.

My general rule of thumb on the front driveshaft is that when your rig is sitting with the driveshaft level, you should still have 1" of compression left (so it can go shorter) to allow for the possibility of a bent control arm or other front end issues at a later date. I use an engine hoist to lift the front of the truck and remove the coil springs so I can lower it back down and see how much clearance everything has.

Just an FYI, but hotter plugs tend to make ping worse. I'm running NGK BKR6EK plugs which run clean AND no ping monster without an EGR valve.

If the axle is engaged and the vehicle is rolling, the driveshaft has no option but to turn unless something is wrong inside. Tcase in 4x4 should be making it spin as well.

The brakes changed in '91 (at least the rears) but the axles still bolted the same in till the end of production AFAIK. ABS makes for fun and around '99 I think they went to low pinion like the TJ and ZJ. Too bad you aren't close to Seattle. I have one ready to go from a '90 XJ for $200 less the brakes.

It's almost the only front ratio with 4.0L and automatic.

It's available through Napa and auto parts stores here within 24 hours usually. Part numbers change but function doesn't.

They aren't "legally" available as such, but a Chev Fuel pump block off plate needs only minor mods to fit the 2.5L TBI's EGR opening.

Did you read that he has head lamps when he hits "Flash-to-Pass"? That means he has power to the dimmer switch. The both of you fail at diagram reading then. There is another contact inside the signal switch that bypasses the high beam switch. It's there in case the HB switch blows so you can see to get to the shoulder of the road.

lock plate tool http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w80649 pin tool http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25135 http://www.harborfreight.com/19-piece-38-drive-e-socket-set-67992.html

What does that have to do with whether power is getting to the switch?

Way more technical than you need for sure. MY point is that without an EGR there with a pintle on it to stop the flow of exhaust into the intake manifold is only half the equation. What's happening with the exhaust that's travelling into the intake manifold with the EGR absent? If you put a flat plate over the 2 holes, preferably with a gasket to seal it, there is no exhaust flow.

alcohol of 10% minimum here in WA. http://pure-gas.org/ Try filling at one of the stations on this list. Don't forget that outside temps affect fuel as well. Cold fuel doesn't atomize as easily.

You throw out crap that most times doesn't apply and is off the subject matter. You're back-pedalling now, you know. I feel we are here to help others, not lead them astray with off the cuff crap that wastes their time. Where am I backpedaling? I read he altered the TVS which was fine before it started acting up. He re-checked and it made no difference. On to the next thing. PS: Mine was recently shifting weird because the TVS cable was frayed at the throttle and sticking in the sleeve. Not that this is the OP's issue.

You can test the old TPS with a VOM meter first.

Unlike water in electronics, you can usually dry off the dist cap, wires and some water remover in the carb bowl plus all the connectors under the hood cleaned and you're good to go.

Yes, but the first time takes awhile. If you know the special tools in advance, it's easier. I did mine just a couple weeks ago. Steering wheel puller lockplate tool (to remove and re-install the snap ring) Pin puller (unless you can cheat and just tighten the 2 that are visible. NOT the proper way) e drive socket and 1/4 drive extension (I forget the size. E7?) Follow the directions on the link above.

I put 7" TJ springs in my Comanche. Settled down to 5 1/2" or just enough to clear my 33/9.50/15 tires with extended lower arms and adjustable tracbar.

Do they switch to "winter" fuel out there? They did here recently and I dropped from 17 to 14 mpg the last 3 tanks.

Check for power at the dimmer switch if that fails

If you re-check the axle is properly engaged, then pull the front diff cover and see if the spider gears are busted. There is no other way (other than stripped pinion) that the driveshaft won't turn with the wheels.

I got 14-18 with my '86 2wd 5 speed (4.10 axle) When I lifted 3 inches and converted it to 4x4 in '02 and drove to Ouray, CO it was getting about the same mileage until I filled up with a tank of 85 octane. Power went up and it went up to 25 mpg until the second tank after I got back to where 87 is minimum octane. I was worried about the mountains so I put in a tank of premium. Big mistake! Power went down and economy dropped too. I rolled over the scale at 6,000 lbs just as we were leaving WA state. 3 adults, a tool box, 3 spare tires (2 stacked on the cable under the back), camping gear, spare parts, 5 gallons of water. Only 1 gallon spare gas (outside the canopy on the bumper) 235/75/15 BFG tires. They all wore out on the way back because I was hit on the left front by a delivery truck and I kept switching tires about every 100 miles (cords were showing on them all when I got back)

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