AMCJeepMJ

COFFMAN, would an ARB front bumper not work? They're locals to you as well, no?

There's a lot of factors which will affect your top speed... larger or heavier tires... tuning/upkeep of the rig... added items which create drag [light bar, brush guard, ladder rack, etc.]... with a 2.5, driving into the wind or with the wind... Having a dirty rig will also increase drag and reduce top speed and fuel economy. Keep it clean and waxed smooth.

The key word is 'custom'.

In lieu of the Rangers, I fully support Detroit's march to the WS.

Thanks guys. :)

So I picked up a set of powder coated Gamblers at a very reasonable price, but have a few questions regarding powder coated wheels as I am not very familiar with powder coating: 1- Will the powder coating on the contact areas of the rim affect how the tire seals against the rim, or the valve stem against the rim? 2- Will having powder coating where the lug nut holds the wheel cause the lug nut to loosen after time? 3- Are there anything particular cons involved with powder coated wheels? My intention is to use these Gamblers as winter wheels for studded tires. Any advice is appreciated.

The short answer is: yes. The long answer is: yeeeeesssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss. The alternate answer is: I don't know, can you? :)

The decimal should be one place further to the left.

I want my $2! :)

What a Hutchinson Rock Monster looks like: Silver. Black is too high school-ish for my tastes and argent is too boy-racery (same thing?). As an aside, $399/wheel is a lot to spend for wheels that ugly.

Well, allrighty then.

Looks like a late model GranTurismo. Nice! Which reminds me, I was behind a Carrera GT last week but had a flat battery on my phone. No pic. :(

Yup, the bar to chassis bushings are the correct ones and lubed with lithium soap/grease.

Headliner, control arms, track bar, and shocks. Everything is just sitting in the garage waiting for me to have time to do it.

Follow up: After driving it for a few days, the Moog bushings seem much softer than the old [and dried out/hardened] bushings they replaced; the new bushings are giving much more body roll than the old ones. The old bushings were cranked way down on the link bolt and the new ones are at the correct torque spec [well, close and slightly higher at 50#]. Bar to chassis bushings were replaced several months ago. The old link bushings provided much flatter cornering. Anyone else run into a similar issue with the link bushings? Will cranking down the Moog bushings cause splitting or very rapid failure of the bushings? I am considering putting the old bar to link bushings back on- talk me out of it.

Don't make the mistake of picking up a sway bar from an inline 6 equipped ZJ; the contour of the bar will not clear the bottom of an OEM-shaped radiator of a 2.5 equipped MJ.

Napa first, O'Reilly second, anyone else except Autozone third, Autozone last.

Awesome, thank you. It worked like a charm!

I picked up their greasable shackles and had them in less than a week. They're overbuilt and nearly indestructable.

I had to pick up a passenger side mirror from a salvage yard- my 87 had a blank piece where the mirror goes.

Picked up a fresh set of Moog end links for the sway bar, and after researching online I am unable to find any torque specs. This is for both where it connects to the axle and for the bushings connecting to the sway bar. In the event of no torque specs, is it a case of 'torque it til it feels snug', or is it 'crank those bad boys down'? Thanks!

Neato! I had no idea there was a rear window louver available... at one point.

I run the 16" 98 Grand Cherokee Silverstars on mine. They are lightweight.

Maybe for flagrant disregard of forum rules?