AMCJeepMJ

I picked up the same MJ rear sway bar they carry for directly from Addco for $40 cheaper shipped than their non-shipped price. Not knocking them as my experience has been mostly positive. Just sayin'.

I had clear skies, but opted to just watch the coverage on NASA tv.

Check: -fuses -bulbs -door plunger switches Go from there.

Have 1 Shepard/Chow mix [Rusty] and 2 dachshund/boston terrier mixes [Macy and Windy], and after Rusty passes I won't be getting another 'big' dog... I'll be sticking with bite-sized puppies from now on. So much easier.

and in four billion years, the earth will be engulfed by an enlarged, dying Sun... but on the upside, the night sky will be spectacular with half of it filled with M31 on its collision course.

I would totally rock those as winter wheels instead of my current OEM 10-hole studded aluminum wheels.

What I did [which or may not be relevant to the thread] when I lited the rear of my rig 2.5" is ran the stock shocks for about two months while waiting on my shock shipment from Motion. You may ask: Did they work? For the most part, yes since it was winter and I had bags of sand in the back to drop the rear an inch or two. Did I extend the shocks all the way when turning quickly into driveways with this arrangement? Yes [with a bang!].

Craziness. You wouldn't see me out in that. Mother nature is mean when she wants to be.

Oooooooooh... I want one. All the rest of my clocks are on 24 hour mode except my cars.

The inside of the bed can be viewed... its red.

Bikini model lounging on the hood? Clear shot of the VIN? Ground-level [worm's eye] shot of the right front quarter with wheels turned to the left with nothing but blue sky in the background?

They really went to town with the silver spray paint on the underside. 5-leaf rear springs noted as well. Interesting way to mount the steering dampener.

I think I read somewhere that it was cheaper for Mercedes-Chrysler to redesign and produce an entire vehicle [XJ -> KK] than to modify an aging pre-existing design to meet the new-at-the-time 2002 safety criteria required of all new vehicles being sold in the US.

I get the warm/fuzzy feeling every morning when it starts without question in the coldest of Oregon high desert winters.

I've been looking for a fresh foglight rocker switch like this one instead of my current lame toggle switch: http://www.euramtec.com/parts/a/a07/1306.html You guys have some neat stuff and the diagrams are appreciated on your euramtec website. Thanks.

I remember the show Lost.

My $0.02 on them: I had a set for a year and it made the headlights difficult to clean, the wires popped loose from the frame, and the metal clips are a hassle to install and became fatigued and began to rust after a few removals to clean the headlights. I would not pick up another set.

Factory black clearcoat... again. This way the door jambs and underhood will still match. Then put a Golden Eagle on the hood and accent it with some gold pinstripes on the sides.

Stock setup. Quiet = good. Obnoxious = bad.

Double post. Sorry, guys.

I just did ball joints this past weekend on my 87 using: -Spicer ball joints from Motion Offroad [$50 per side] -Harbor Freight ball joint press [$60 for the kit] -Lithium grease -liquid wrench -Other assorted tools to get the tire, caliper, and steering knuckle off Don't want to break the c-clamp press? get some good torque on the ball joint, then give it a good tap with an engineer's hammer; they will pop free easily and won't break your tools. Use liquid wrench on the joints and let it sit an hour after you get the steering knuckle off... after all, the old ball joints have probably been in there 20+ years. Use a small amount of lithium grease to help ease the new ball joints back in. Took me about 5 hours to do both sides by myself and was not nearly as scary as everyone made it out to be. There's some good videos on youtube to help walk you through it too. The Spicer joints seem to work just fine and come pre-greased. The top joint has a zerk fitting, but the bottom does not.

Replaced upper and lower ball joints on both sides. Took approximately 5 hours from start to finish... which I think is a respectable time as I had not done a job like this before.

I do the WalMart/StraightTalk plan for $45/month. It allows the user to not be locked in to a 2 year contract, which is nice.

I concur the site is very slow to load, and has been for the past few weeks. I do hope this is resolved, as I enjoy surfing the site in my down time... but with the slow load times I head to other websites as I am not patient enough for 30 second load times for each page... which seems worse if there are lots of pictures or smiles to load up [like when composing a reply or a pic laden work in progress thread].

Hello all, in the near future I will be tackling the unenviable task of replacing ball joints on my 2wd. Despite never having done them, I have the correct hand tools and a really good idea how to pull it off. The questions I have are: -is there a preferred brand of ball joint over another? -are they as much of a PITA to do as people I have spoken with state? -any tips to make it go smoothly? -any make sure you don't do that tips?