88ComancheMitch

Seems to run fine until around 45. Then won't stop missing and stalling until I come to a stop and start driving again

Truck ran great for about an.hour. longest trip ive taken. Rpms started dipping like the engine was cutting on and off. Pulled off to side of road and thought I fixed it with a loose map sensor vacuum line. I was wrong.... By passes fuel pump resistor with a temp setup. Now it will idle great. Rev great in park. When I put it.in drivr and try to drive forward it stalls hard. Ideas?

Mine is the same as the 2nd one. It lights up and I got humming out of the speakers and some static I just put the top one in my MJ. It seems to work.... If you're interested let me know and I might be convinced to part with it.

Awesome!

Clogged system. Thermostat. Waterpump. Head gasket. What motor?

Hahaha. Look at that rust...

Wow. $6k? I see nothing that makes it worth even the $5K that has been bid on it. Rims/Tires and nice paint. Everything else is normal....10K on an engine is no big deal either (mostly)...

As stated above...anything but airtex. Bosch has a good reputation

Check post fuel filter for fuel. Then work your way forward. If you have fuel at the injector and it's still not running check fpr

I used "aCar" for awhile. Available on android only I think. Allows you to track EVERYTHING vehicle related. Tune-ups, services, service reminders, etc. I was getting around 16MPG before I made a lot of changes. I'll report back after I go through a full tank now that I have my truck running right.

I think there was one of these at the junkyard where I go, but it was already gone, along with the rest of the header panel :( I'll keep looking though.

Zombie build is an excuse to go over the top. That thing is sick. I've most of his videos.

Hmmmm...I'll look at that if I get a chance tomorrow. That might help my MPG some.

Yes, which mine no longer has due to a 98 block.

Looks like pass side kick panel area in xj's, I'm assuming it's the same on a MJ....if it will make a difference I'll grab one ASAP and report back.

Hmmm...I believe, and correct me if this is impossible, I am running a 98' HO motor with a 88 ECU. Should I still be looking for a TCU from a 89+? Where is the TCU located? Where the auto shift lever meets the side of the trans? Thanks, Mitch

Looks like a ladder rack?

So, what ill effects can I have from not having a temp reading being sent to the computer? Bad gas mileage? any fix for this?

Limb riserrs on. Bed painted. Cherokee buckets installed. Still have to work on the tailgate and rear of cab. And bed. But I was on vacation there week and made some progress. P.s. drivers seat is power. Also put on new wheel bearingfs and added the lights to the front bumper.

Alright. Cool. Thanks. I think high idle was due to wiring/sensors plugging up but not being "right" I jumped.only the power side of the plug, and now the gauge works without high idle. my concern now is with air/fuel ratio.

After reading the lung hd sensor stuff it looks like all 4.0 knock sensors are compatible?

Ok. Is ho and renix knock sensors the same? Any way around this? What will not having one do? Runs fine as it is

Ill take a picture tomorrow. Whats the plug for the sensor on the side of the block look like?

I have a 2 prong female plug. And what looks like a 7th injector plug. Any ideas?

Ok....so common sense got the best of me I think. Renix era didn't have a temp sensor up by the upper radiator hose. It was on the block. Is the plug for that a 2 prong setup? I'm thinking it may be because I'm trying to run the gauge off the same plug as the temp sensor.