88ComancheMitch

I've read in multiple places that the hood louvers don't help with overheating...I'm not sure if that's true or not...

Could always make sure the heater core isn't clogged. Back flushing it might help. I've heard that the radiators go bad and the only symptom is over heating...not any visual signs.

I never thought of using those for tube doors. I was thinking the same thing with a tailgate...hmmmm...

I looked up the stock rating of the escape. It was 100lbs. I feel like it can support much more than 100lbs. So I'd say you're safe. I plan to mount mine up there for now.

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Very nice. Hopefully I can have mine this nice, in retaliative terms of course.

Just got word that my header will be here in a couple days. Hopefully Wednesday! I'll post a video when it's on and done.

Better pictures...

Step on over to the DIY section to see my luggage rack. I was able to snag a 99+ intake/throttle body, and will be installing along with the APN header when it ships. Snagged a soundbar as well. Made a pathetic first attempt to reupholster it. I'll post pics when it's mounted behind the seats and doesn't look so terrible :doh: Here is a pic of the rack though.... Soon to come... :banana: Some variation of this and the luggage rack..

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Never saw anyone complain about this. Unless its a dangerous issue, such as death wobble or something.... I'd say get used to it.

Id just go get a stock system from the junkyard. Then swap back after inspection. I love how KY doesn't have inspections anymore

Anyone know if the 5 speed t case drop works on Comanches?

My 8.25 conversion was easy and cheap. Paid $110 for the rear end. $15 in paint. $20 in fluid. $5 for a grinding disk to reuse the perches. Took a couple days of working on it for a couple hours a day. Pretty easy. Make sure you get the driveshaft angle right.

This is the first link I have up there. I'm going to start updating the original post as I have time.

More than one way to skin a cat. Sometimes whats available is whats best. Awesome information guys. Keep it coming

Maybe this will be a sticky eventually, but I didn't see a topic that had everything in one place that would let you see some swappable parts from various vehicles. I'll kind of start a template...the idea is to have a list of stuff that can be directly, or almost directly, swapped. Hopefully I didn't miss this sticky/section somewhere. Some applicable information. Some has been repeated. Cherokee Junkyard and Budget Jobs Suspension Lift: ZJ coils lift approx 1-2" in the front F150 coils lift approx 3" in the front, but will cause a stiff ride. Spring over axle swap in the rear lifts between 5-7" (wide variance here) For extended brake lines, large dodge ram vans from the same era will fit. TJ Coils fit, but will provide 1" less lift than what is specified (I.e. stock springs = 1" drop, 3 inch TJ coils = 2 inch MJ coils) General Better ride and wheel clearance with WJ LCA's (UCA's will fit, but only give the benefit of a better ride to my knowledge) Driveline: Rear Axle Cherokee rear ends require spring perch relocation, but the D35 and Chrysler 8.25 fit Ford 8.8" will fit, and have commonly sought after gearing (3.73, 4.10, etc) and typically have disc brakes and posi-traction. (Will require spring perch relocation, 1" wheel spacers) Brakes: WJ Brake booster/Master Cylinder. Upgrades braking--Must be done together. YJ brake lines (3-4" longer) WJ Rotors and Calipers (Larger, most stopping power, check fitment with rims) Can convert from drum to disk using ZJ parts. Need everything from the backing plates out. Suggest using brake booster and master cylinder. Dakota ('95-'00) Rear soft brake lines. 6" Longer K1500/GMC Front softlines-require some modification ('90-'95) 6" Longer KJ Disc brakes can be used to convert For extended brake lines, see lift section.

Waiting for the header to come in, so I've been getting everything all prettied up. EDIT: Got word that the header won't ship until next week. Fuel Rail... Before After Hardware also... Heat Shield....discoloration is due to drying. It's all one color... Going to get a 99+ Intake this weekend hopefully, it will be all black. Valve cover will be tan eventually. Weekend project is homework, and if I have time, bombing the engine bay flat black. If the header comes in the mail this week I'll be installing that as well.

Everywhere I go I see how amazing customer service is at rough country. I have a rant... When I bought my Comanche I got a rough country winch bumper with it. Its brand new, never mounted. I am however missing one of the 2 mounting brackets. I got on their website and began a chat. I was quickly informed I could not buy the bracket. The only way was to have bought the bumper directly through them. I was also told that they would sell me the brackets after I pushed a little, but they would be $200 and the winch mount. After a few complaints about their customer service the tech disconnected on me. I find it very frustrating that a company who claims #1 customer satisfaction can't supply a part as common as this. Has anyone else had to replace a bumper mount? What did you do? At this point I guess I'll have one made.

Ordering the header today. In the mean time, I flushed the front diff, and will be flushing the transfer case sometime this week/next weekend. Not quite as bad as the rear, but not good either. See the level of the fluid vs. the plug level... Cleaned up and ready for a cover and lube. Matching the rear.

I've read nothing but good things.

I think its cracked.....APN header here I come...along with a 99+ intake manifold

Roger that. I'll work on those tonight then. I have read through those tips more than once but never did them because I didn't think they applied.

I'll check those points. I did begin taking the intake/exhaust off last night. I'll take pics when I finish tomorrow afternoon/night. It's a 98' motor, do those tips still apply? Mitch

I did this when I put the 8.25 in my Comanche. We got the plug from Oreilly's. However, I bought like of the plugs until I found the one that fit. If you can find a size that would help you. OR just take the valve up there if you can.