mnkyboy

It always feels weird when I'm tearing apart a vehicle that's nicer then the one I'm fixing.

This is the only problem I've ever had with them,they take forever.

If its set up for a SBC I would put another SBC in it or similiar sized small block.

I've been wondering that too. :dunno:

I'm running adj arms and drop brackets with 6"+. I have matched or outflexed lots of long arm rigs. I get about 36" of articulation and at that the arms can go further,I have other things keeping me from more flex. As for strength my DBs are 1/4" thick,they are bolted to the stock arm mounts then welded in. Once I finish my braces I doubt most long arm kits will have any significant strength advantage.

here's the MJ on a snow run about a month ago.

Ive heard a lot of bad things about RE's arms,apparently their bushings are junk. I went with RC adjustable arms from Hell Creek and haven't had any problems with them.

Most straight arms are made offset on one end to give more clearance so they shouldn't hit

You have a bad connection at the battery,make sure everything is clean and tight.

Its not a very good offroad axle,it has an aluminum center section that gets cracked and the axle tubes aren't any bigger then the d35. A lot of grand cherokee guy pull them and install D35s

Anything over 3" you need adjustable to set caster and avoid death wobble... it has nothing to do with tire clearance. I drove my MJ for over a year at 5" on stock arms with no problems. I also know a guy that ran a ZJ at 5" on stock arms with no issues. The RRO 5" kit doesn't even come with lower arms and I've never heard of death wobble with their kit.

I don't think there is a fuse,if jims right the front relay is the pump relay. You could check the wire colors he said to check and verify which one matches.

Here, this is a generic diagram of how a fuel pump curcuit works. Its not jeep specific but should give you an idea.

No,if you hook positive on one side and negative on the other it should spin.

You could try hooking up the pump by itself without the wires.

If you have the right wires you should be able to make the pump run,either way you still need to figure out why you only have 4 volts getting to the pump.

2 should go to the pump motor,one should be for the fuel gauge. See if you can follow the wires and see what goes where.

Its not uncommon to see a pump held in with a zip tie. If your worried about the wires take the meter and check continuity on each end. Or you could hook 12v to the plug and see if the pump runs If that harness is the problem you should have 12v where the harness plugs in. Now that you found the relays pull out the one Jim said to check and test the terminals where it plugs in

On my 89 2.5l MJ they are on the right side. On my 4.0l they are on the left Image Not Found See the 2 little cubes those are relays

:agree: this should tell you where you losing power.I would also test from the fuel pump + wire to the frame and see if you have the same 4v,put the red lead on the + terminal of the plug and the black lead to the frame of the truck

Sears typically doesn't sell junk,so thay are usually a good choice

So your testing the pump with no wires hooked to it? How could it have more then 0v? 4v isn't enough you have a volt drop some where,Did you get the cranking problem resolved?

If you have 0v at the pump the pump is not the problem. You need to find out where in the curcuit you are losing power.

I agree stands are very important,I own a few sets and I used the crap out of them. I have a couple harbor freight 3ton jacks,one is over ten years old. They work great for the price but definitly are not the same as a high quality jack.

:dunno: