mnkyboy

That grand looks like it has as much flex as a honda civic,huge isn't always best.

I was waiting for him to post

There's no switch its a potentiometer you have to adj.

Which transmission do you have?

Yes they will fit,15x8 would be better though

Depending on the condition of your rear springs it might.

Triangulated 4 link is usually not ran on the street. Your track bar runs parallel with your steering link so the steering and axle move together,remove the track bar and your steering will suck,evertime your suspension moves its gonna push the steering shaft. Most rigs with triangulated front run hydraulic steering and are not street driven. And yes the links have a lot to do with flex,its the binding of the links/joints that will stop flex,this is why y links/radius arms don't flex as well as 3and4 links.

Its just the RC kit. I don't like that it doesn't have drop brackets,at 6" the RC arms will not bolt on correctly. IIRC Jacked88 went through that on his when he put his RC arms on with RC 6.5L coils.

About 5" it takes 6"-6.5" up front to make it level. Here's mine with just the soa for comparison,it also has 31x10.50s in the pic. Here it is soa rear and 5" front with 31x10.50s

Are you taking into account that your odometer is now way off? Also your probably running it a lot harder with 33s and stock gears. I have a 2.5l with 33x12.50s and stock 3.55s,if I calculate mileage based on my inaccurate odometer I'm only getting about 10-12mpg and I drive mostly hwy.

Free is a good price.

Longer perches will help with axle wrap,my perches are 7-8" long and I have little to no axle wrap.

My MJ looked like that till recently,we finally a driveway put in. Everyone at work thought I went wheeling everyday.

Anybody should be able to unanimously call it in,just call animal control and give them the address.

Most 4 links still need a track bar to keep the axle centered. Triangulated is the only way to not need one because the upper links hold center. Triangulated is more common in the rear,I don't think I've ever seen it on the front of a street driven vehicle. Most front 4 links are either straight or semi triangulated so they require a track bar,stock we have semi triangulated 4 link. Typically 4 link is more stable at higher speeds and 3 links flex better,but that depends on the design. Radius arms/Y links are pretty strong,easy to make,and usually cheaper then 3&4 links but do don't perform as well.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/11 ... index.html

You have one of the strongest axles jeep used,I would leave it alone.

Here's a thead about it http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1020817

Y links are the worst performing long arms you can buy,what do you like better about them? If I went long arm it would have to be 3 or 4 link

He embedded links in the part numbers

I've known guys who have gotten decent deals on high end meters at pawn shops,at least then you can check it out. One nice thing with Fluke meters is they can be sent in for repair or recalibration.

You can usually find decent deals on used Fluke meters on ebay. I got my Fluke 88 and my Simpson 260 used and saved alot of money

How would we know specifics from some pics? I would guess that neither have drop pitman arms,who knows what shocks they have. You would be better off looking through the build section and finding trucks you like then ask the owners about them.

They already match,if you look real close your mj tapers in a lot in the front giving the illusion that the front axle is wider.

If I had $4000 to blow on my truck I could come up with a lot better places to spend it then the engine.