8valvehero

Hmmm. Still having a hard time. I can't visualize what's happening here. The + cable is disconnected from the vehicle batt, and the 9v is connected between the + cable and vehicle batt. - terminal? Also I figure that I should hook it up before i disconnect the + cable. Thanks

...cut out?

I'm having a hard time visualizing this, but it's very intriguing. Please elaborate. I was expecting it, but my '91 has not done this once to me since I bought it in February. Maybe 10 disconnects.This is also a thing that early-mid 90's Volkswagens do. I've got a fair amount of experience with those vehicles and I have found that the severity of this occurrence varies from one vehicle to the next. Not sure why, but even when running perfectly, some systems just seem to take longer to settle. We used to blame gremlins.

I spent years accumulating everything I needed to make this look like it belongs there. It's one of those sweet factory options that you hardly ever find-- like the cargo light. The underside of the hood had little detents in it to mark the place to drill. I found my connector neatly tucked behind the factory loom and taped in place. The tape had to be cut for me to pull it up in to position. I had not seen this light installed in-person, and was surprised at the placement when I saw it in the JY. Harness: Placement: I too acquired mine with a cut-off connector. I refused to splice it in and had a bear of time finding that final piece. I've got a hacked-up one you can have for free:

Do a fuel rail leak down test. My '99 XJ had a tank return check valve that went bad with similar symptoms.

CLEAN

$800- Seller named the price. There are some things you just can't say "no" to. :D That's not like she didn't come with a host of issues: Both doors were totally effed. Few (if any) accessories worked. Rusted-out exhaust. Toasted bushings and ball joints. Tired leaf springs. Water in the floors. Smashed windows. Seized brake caliper. Tailgate stuck closed. Rusted-through fuel tank with slow leak. It seems that the PO knew that the truck was some kind of gem, but wasn't in a position to do the volume of work necessary to bring her back. I'm a known local Comanche aficionado, so he sought me out at work. FATE! The keychain that it came with is awesome: Redneck yard:

Hey gang It feels like just yesterday that I joined the CC family, but here I am welcoming my third MJ. I scored a fantastic deal on a project with a solid base: 1991 LWB AW4 4WD bech seat D44 with only 120k miles on the clock! Ownership is clean and I can't believe my luck. I work at Mt Baker Ski Area and a local found out that I was in to Jeeps. He sought me out and made me an offer I couldn't refuse. First look: The rust is prolific, but merely superficial. The floors are intact, but she needs 2 windows, both doors need hinge repair and nothing works. If she had been left to sit in the forest for another year or two she would have been gone. I saw right through all of that and immediately fell in love. In the several months since then, I have been pushing back the hands of time and neglect. I will get caught up in the next few posts. Here's what I've done so far besides standard tune-up stuff (current 10/2017): Replaced fuel tank. Replaced PS door hinge pins. Welded DS door hinge. New door checks. 4/1 leaf springs (w/ extra helper springs) from donor & new bushings. (+ 2.5"rear) 2" spring spacers front. Moog CC782 coils (+3/4" Heavy lift) Rough Country HD steering and track bar. RuffStuff "The Cure". New control arms. Spicer ball joints. Axle shaft seals replaced. U-joints replaced. Painted front axle. Oil pan gasket replaced. 1-3/4" rear wheel spacers. Upgraded to full compliment gauge cluster. Installed novelty multi-tone air horn. New front brake calipers. New sway bar end links. (2001 Ford Truck) Replaced wiper bushings & upgraded to 97+ wiper arms. Export-only amber turn signals. Replaced DS door glass. Repaired courtesy lamps and added foot well lamps. Installed OEM engine compartment lamp with gravity switch. Replaced water pump. Repaired parking brake (Still needs rebuild, but pawl spring tightened to compensate). Repaired non-functioning tailgate latch. Replaced trim panels on side of cab with ones that didn't have holes drilled in them. New fancy door panels. Installed OEM front skid plate. Replaced exhaust with muffler-back pipe I had from my donor. Replaced missing prop-valve connecting arm to axle. Cleaned and replaced more little sensors and connectors than I care to count. Current Photo:

Hey gang I know this thread is old and all, but I wanted to chime in and endorse this method. It's not a permanent fix- but it certainly restored functionality to my tired, sloppy parking brake. The kick panel was removed and I was able to swap the pawl spring out easily with a medium size needle nose. A magnet stick and paper towel (for blocking crevasses) were helpful. Access was easy in my '91. I don't recall my Renix MJ being as accommodating when I tackled it. At first I cut the factory spring to make it tighter. That kinda worked, but the pedal was still not holding 100% of the time. I bought a much firmer spring from the hardware store that seems to be holding solid (4 days in so far). I still need to rebuild this assembly, so I'm careful to pull the release handle when depressing the pedal so the teeth don't get buggered by the extra tension on the pawl. I like A-man930's rebuild method: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48483-parking-brake-pedal-refurb/ Keep Jeepin'! . :MJ 1: .

Strong work on COTD! You deserve it!

It's even better in person. Nice job dude!

Just ordered some of these! Strong work! Can't wait for the new editions. :thumbsup:

Have you been picking my old parts truck at Farrell's? I haven't been out there in about a year.

Hey gang! My project is moving on to the next phase and I've got the idea that it would be fun to have a 97+ interior with a bench seat and AW4 with a column shifter (I've got my reasons). I've searched and searched, but I can't seem to find anyone who has been down this road before. I'm gonna try it anyway, but it would be awesome if someone knows anything about this swap. PLEASE AND THANKS! It would seem that a 94+ Dakota is the obvious donor:

Sorry about the long delay- Primarily I need to swap to auto so the wife can drive it. We've been together 12 years and I've given up that debate. Part of the deal in getting a project truck was that I have/love an XJ but she wanted a Toyota pickup, so I sold the idea of an XJ truck that she could drive. Also the AW4 has a smooth power delivery that I just can't get out of my ba10/5 w/ tracloc in my MJ. I have a bench seat and the wife likes to sit in the middle. It's nice when I don't have to shift so I can have my arm around.

Harvested from the donor and cleaned up. See page 2. I've read about some "new" fuses boxes, but they were always hand-made by the owner one wire connection at a time.

MINI UPDATE This past week, I had noticed that my clutch felt bad and that my gear shifts were poor. I didn't inspect anything because I just assumed that after 350,000mi, my ba10/5 was ready to retire. Well, the other day when I start the truck, the clutch pedal makes a popping noise and bends to the floor. I stuck my head under there to reveal that the entire thing was broken. Luckily, I was at the auto parts store so it was easy to enlist help for a push-start to 2nd gear. I limped it to a friend, who attempted some unsuccessful emergency repair welding while the pedal was still installed (next to my new fuse panel, btw. yikes!). I ended up getting a ride. That means that for the first time ever- my truck couldn't make it home :(. My parts truck provided the replacement, and a trip to the plumbing section unearthed a great poly bushing for the pushrod. So it's still on the road and the AW4 swap stays on a back burner for now. I wonder if I can push this transmission over 400,000mi... :hmm:

3 year old red nose:

YEAH! I've got a pittie of my own named Pepper Ann

^this^ :bowdown:

Thanks guys. I yearn for the day that I have a garage. Here in the Pacific NW, flash rust is a huge issue, so I basically find myself having to spray everything with a coat of lube before I walk away from it. The bores were flash-rusting almost instantly when I was loosening up the carbon with some IDRed (my favorite aerosol degreaser).

UPDATE! I don't have enough time for my projects, but things must carry on when they can. Today I pulled the engine, transmission and transfer case out of the submarine XJ donor. I don't have a garage and it was raining, but I had no choice- it had to be done today. Other than having to lay in the mud, things went smoothly and the whole thing was out by 9:30. I spent the afternoon cleaning up some rust and carbon in and around the block. As the Superbowl started on the radio and the light faded, I quickly lubed and reassembled the top end and put the manifolds on to keep her stable until next week when I can clean up the head and install some fresh gaskets and seals.

I had to do a full bleed before I could get it to work very well.