8valvehero

That's the answer I needed. THANKS! Brainstorm: I could move it out and point it up at the 'Jeep' letters on the tailgate!

Makes sense, I'm just confused bc the harness has 2 connectors: for this light and my bumper tag lamps. weird. thanks!

shoot me a pm and i'll snap some pics when I pick it up

I'm doing the exact same thing. You need the appropriate column with cruise selector, control box, throttle diaphragm w bracket, brake and clutch sensors, enlarged vac. res. and absolutely ZERO vac. leaks. I'm still collecting parts and I'm sure that I missed something because I'm figuring it out as I go. I'm not sure what the control box looks like yet, I need to boogie to the JY and grab one from my fav. donor, but it should be basically a little servo that controls the diaphragm on the throttle.

Hey gang! I've searched a bit and can't quite find what I'm looking for, so here goes: I just completed that bed swap from my '86 donor to my '88 DD. While I was swapping the wiring harness over from the '88 I noticed that I had this weird little light behind my bumper. It's like a license plate lamp, but it shines on the ground instead of the plate because, well, it's behind the bumper. I thought it was cool, so I got it working, but I'm still left wondering- WHY? What is it for? My best theory is license plate light if for I choose to remove my bumper, beause there's square holes under it like you would use to mount a tag. Anyone know? I've never seen it on any other MJ. (ignore ugly temporary wire routing)

aw man!

Brahma on a long-bed set up as a mini-camper:

UPDATE!!! I've been away from CC for a while, but that doesn't mean I haven't been turning wrenches! Today I finally got the bed swap done. With that, I'm down to just a couple odds and ends before it's time for paint! BEFORE: Redneck yard: I've been spraying the bolts with PB for weeks, so everything came out like butter with the help of a 18" breaker bar. Frame is immaculate, but it breaks my heart to see that beautiful grey spray-painted over: In other news: Sipsey got her first taste of off-road a couple weeks back on a camping trip with the topper:

That's totally something you would see in SE Georgia

Could be OEM topper!!! http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/zip/4618041521.html

a little late but here's what I used last weekend on my brakes: Type: SAE Inverted Flare Size: 3/16" (3/8"-24 x 3/8"-24 Long http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EDE1/320PVF.oap?ck=Search_320pvf_-1_2515&keyword=320pvf Also a Jeeper at the O'Rielly sold me this chevy flex hose to connect my prop. valve to my axle cleanly. It's even a few inches longer for my lift! http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BHH1/BH38576.oap?ck=Search_bh38576_-1_2515&keyword=bh38576 Thread Size End 1: 3/8-24 Inch Thread Size End 2: 7/16-24 Inch Hose Length (In): 21-1/2 Inch

RAD! You should get that Cheromanche guy to do your perches.

Hey gang! I'm back with another odd sort of question. I plan on researching more when I get the time, but hopefully one of the great CC minds knows what I'm after and can help me out before I start comparing wiring diagrams... Build thread for background: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42813-project-sipsey-88-pioneer-long-bed/ Problem: When my '88 came to me it was in bad shape. Real bad. Nothing worked (not even the door) and the dash was ripped to pieces. I've since been replacing just about everything recently with a special focus on restoring the interior back to perfect stock before the rainy NW winter rolls in. As part of my interior restoration, I gave up on fixing the annihilated harness/panel in lieu of just replacing everything with a refreshed harness that I cleaned up from my donor '86. It went great and everything works except I noticed that there was no socket location for the "TRANS" fuse. I figured at the time that was for the automatic transmission control, until I started trying to pin down one of my final boggles: back-up/reverse lights. So here's my question(s): What is the difference between the back-up/reverse light systems in my donor '86 AX4 2.5L and my driven '88 ba10/5 4.0L? Is there a known workaround for getting them to work? Let it be known: I have not tested the system very much yet because I'm not quite sure where to start even. Usually I assume it's the simplest problem; I would whip out the multimeter and start testing from the socket forward. But this time it feels different and I don't want to waste a bunch of time chasing phantoms. Thanks so much for reading and any help you can provide. CHEERS! Current pics. Don't let the exterior fool you, she runs well and looks near-perfect inside. Just wait 'til I get the panels & bed swapped and a coat of paint on! Image Not Found

Aside from the unibody damage it's nothing worse than the body issues that many of us have here on CC. I'm confident we'll see a fine recovery!

Wow I can't recall the last time I saw a can of Mich Golden Light. Cheers and good work!

Oh no! Really hurtin now! :(

Holy smithereenes, Batman!

UPDATE! I got a new windshield so I've been chasing around my leaks and I think most of them are sorted out. A dry cab meant it was time to do the interior swap. None of my accessories worked because the PO had hacked the interior wiring and fuse panel to bits so there was no point in trying to figure it out: (seriously?? :doh: ) I harvested the entire dash harness from my donor, cleaned it up and checked all the wires and connectors. Some got replaced: While everything was out, I figured I'd spruce things up a bit. I pulled the damper box out, cleaned it and replaced some of the foam seals. Then I replaced the firewall padding with an intact/dry one from the donor and put down 1" of jute padding on the floors, back wall and ceiling behind the headliner: Also I made a panel for the back wall out of some left over headliner, cardboard and 1/2" jute padding: The cab is now whisper-quiet and all blacked out. (excl. bench seat because my wife doesn't like the feel of the black vinyl on her legs. :laughin: I'll find a black cover for this one) edit- woah check out the uncleaned damper controls! With that, the interior is done and I can get back to work on everything else. The new harness brought all my accessories back to life: Wipers/sprayers w delay, cluster dimmer, courtesy lights, radio, e-brake light, everything. I had ZERO issues using the '86 2.5L AX4 harness in my '88 4.0L ba10/5 & tilt column w delay switch from an '89. This was a surprise. From the driver's perspective, there's nothing wrong with this truck. :thumbsup: Next project: bed swap! STAY TUNED! CHEERS!

yes. :popcorn:

The photo upload feature is visible only from the full website and not from a mobile device. Taptalk may be different. I don't know. When you click inside the "reply to this topic" box, some posting icons will appear that let you change the color/font, post smileys, ect. There's a little square icon of a photo too. Click that and paste the "direct" link from Photobucket in the box that pops up. You will be able to see your photo displayed in the main "reply to this topic" before you post if you did it right.

UPDATE! I feel like the project has really turned a corner now that the door is fixed, so I'm getting in to high gear. Next up: POR-15 the floors: While that dried I kept working on stripping the donor. Gotta make sure everything gets labeled and sorted! The next day I cleaned up some of the panels and tossed them in during reassembly. No dash swap yet, I've got to insulate the cab so all this has got to come out again soon. BUT HERE'S A VINYL FLOOR: The floor was very fragile after I had removed the jute padding and It tore a bit, but I'll patch it up and re-back it when I finish the interior later. For now, it's much quieter to ride in. I also replaced the e-brake cable, did an oil change and swapped on the new front clip and factory brush guard The donor body panels have this awful mirror trim on them that has to go, so I had to grind off the troublesome adhesive and cover it with bedliner. The wife says she likes it and we should do it to all the red panels as they go on in order to blend together the black/red scheme until we can get it painted. Note: parking chock no longer necessary! THANKS FOR READING! NICE ONE! CHEERS!

Try looking for ATV/Snow Mobile tie rods. They use various small, adjustable open rod ends. Here's one from a Polaris:

thanks hornbrod. I was hoping you would chime in on this one. :bowdown: edit- local jeep spot will shorten & balance for $100+tax. sounds good!

Hey gang, here's where I'm at: A couple months back I swapped a D44 in to my project (88' 4L LWB 2WD) and used the stock D35 shaft. I knew that d44's have a 1" longer pinion, but I figured that because I have a 3" lift, the yoke wouldn't bottom out. Everything went in smoothly and it drives great, but I never really measured. Yesterday I went to take the shaft out to do the front (trans output end) U-joint which had been going out since before the D44 swap, and with the wheels off the ground, I still couldn't push the shaft in to the transmission enough to drop out the rear! The yoke slides about 1/4"-1/2" and stops. This must mean that when i'm sitting at ride height, it's bottoming out. Right? :hmm: (edit- i ended up just popping the bearing caps off to get an extra 2mm clearance to get it out.) I've got about 500 miles on it in this configuration, and nothing seems to have exploded yet, except maybe the front u-joint got worse. I reckon I'll just take it up to the drive shaft shop and have them shorten it 1" I searched of course and it seems that you can't just shorten the yoke because it bottoms out internally on the output shaft rather than the seal. That must be why my transmission isn't leaking. It's so weird though-- it drives fine. What (if any) would be the symptoms of a bottoming out yoke? U-joint vibe? Is it possible that it's bottoming out before my suspension does and halts the spring flex? Or would the axle just travel slightly backwards to accommodate? Help me CC geniuses! Thanks for reading and cheers! :cheers:

Bring this one back!