schardein

Thanks for all the input. Yeah I was looking at the diagrams wondering if I was just dumb because there is no way the fog lights can be on without the low beams being on. And same thing in actual experience. I've modified my XJ so the fog light switch is standalone, but I know how it worked before the mod. And my MJ has fog lights added, and I remember having to re-pin the harness because it was from a different year. So the fact it only worked with the low beams on might have been because of something I did. I'm relieved everyone is having the same conclusion. With stock wiring, low beams must be on for the fog lamps to be on.

You're welcome and glad to hear you got it sorted out.

Not sure if this is a pub or tech section topic. I would like some input on factory fog light function. I recently had a conversation on FB about factory fog lights. We disagreed on how the fog lights work. One thinks fog lights work with the parking lights on, and headlights off. The other thinks the fog lights work only with the low beams on, and won't come on when the headlight switch is in the "parking lights" position. We agree the fog lights are off when the high beams are switched on. We both have wiring circuit diagrams that we think support our position. We also both claim personal experience with factory fog lights that support our position. Perhaps some years were different? If you have factory fog lights, I would appreciate hearing your experience. Can they be switched on when the parking lights are on? Or must the headlight low beams be on to switch on the fog lights?

Good deal! Could you post the part number from Advance? Might help someone who is searching this in the future.

Not to take this thread off course, but I agree. I went through this a few years ago with eBay. I used to offer a factory EGR port delete for the intake manifold of LS truck motors (4.8, 5.3, 6.0). Again, this was a FACTORY PART that was used on some engines that did not have EGR, but the intake manifold had a port for it. So they blocked it with the factory part. It was only used for one year, and later models with no EGR just had the port in the intake manifold molded closed. eBay deleted my listing, saying it was designed to defeat emissions. I had a couple long conversations with them, explaining it was a factory part, to no avail. When I attempt to re-list it, it is automatically blocked. I don't blame them, I understand they are protecting themselves from a government that doesn't have the intellectual ability to comprehend that some situations may require the part and still be 100% emissions legal.

Yep, the Crown J3205596 connector is an exact fit. No need to go through the nonsense of modifying the later connector (WVE 1P1190, Standard Motor Products S720).

As Ohm said, that's how they are supposed to work. The dash indicator lights are showing the what the actual lights (rear brake/turn/hazard) are doing. Think about it like this: If you were traveling down the highway, and encountered a dangerous situation (hazard), you turn on your hazards. Then you decide it is unsafe to continue, so you stop (brake lights on steady). If the hazards continue to flash, someone coming up behind you might not realize you are stopped. I'm sure you know the brake lights, rear turn signals, and hazard lights use the same bulb. They can't flash and remain steady on at the same time. It's part of the reason a 3rd brake light was added. When stopped with a turn signal on, you really only have one brake light (without a CHMSL- Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp).

I've got a switch from a 79 J10 in front of me. To me it looks identical to the 1991. The Crown part on Summit cross references to the 79 J10. The only difference is how it interfaces with the mount at the dash. The J10 has a elongated snout that sticks out. The XJ one doesn't. That won't affect the connector.

I want to add- look at the tabs on the switch body that the connector locks onto. On the 91, the locking tab on the top is towards the rear. The locking tab on the bottom is towards the front. That matches the Crown J3205596 connector. The 92 switch, it's hard to see, but the locking tabs are in reversed positions.

Looking at pictures on Rockauto, it looks like the 92 switch has two additional terminals that are not present on the 91. But other than that, the remaining terminals look to be the same layout. So, one could assume the 92+ connector would work. But I would bet $1 that they changed something about the switch or plug so it doesn't work. This one on Summit Racing doesn't cross reference, but it sure looks like it would work.

Front tow hooks and probably a power radio antenna.

I'm lucky in that I have a local business close to me that specializes in rebuilding steering boxes. I've had two CJ boxes rebuilt, and he converted them from the standard slow ratio to a slightly faster variable ratio. You can mail him your box and he will rebuild and return it. Not cheap but I feel like the value is in getting a part that was rebuilt by someone with years of experience specializing in one area. And for me, being local there are no shipping costs. Also the website has some good tech info to browse through. https://www.powersteering.com

I have switched out the column in my 83 CJ for a YJ column. I wanted the wiper controls and high/low beam switch on the column. Very happy with the outcome. As for going the other way, it may give you more belly room. But it might give you less room between the bottom of the steering wheel and the top of your thighs. I have experience with this in my CJ. I had a YJ/XJ/MJ steering wheel on the CJ column. I switched to a factory CJ wheel, which has more "dish", in other words it sticks out further. It's less than an inch, but it might a noticeable difference in my thigh room. And that's with a tilt column, yes you could tilt it up, but with it in the position I preferred, it gave me more thigh room. When I switched to the YJ column, I kept the CJ steering wheel. An aftermarket steering wheel with a smaller diameter would help, but I prefer the look of a factory steering wheel, and the reliable function of the factory horn button. Some aftermarket steering wheels have a less than great horn button design. You probably know this, yes the XJ and MJ have that mounting flange (cup) at the bottom of the column. The CJ/YJ columns do not. The mounting flange is a two piece deal that bolts around the column tube and is somewhat adjustable by design. By the way, I'm speaking about 76-86 CJ columns. A source for a simple tube column would be earlier CJs, like 55-75. I'm not sure if that is what you have in mind. They don't have tilt, or the ignition switch, or key switch, or anything. The turn signal is a separate clamp on unit with the wires running down the outside of the column tube, visible. The only controls built into the column is the horn button. I'm sure there are similar designs in other cars from that era. I guess something else to consider is the factory CJ (76-86)/YJ/XJ/MJ columns are designed to collapse during an accident so the driver isn't impaled. Earlier designs weren't designed to collapse. Although 55-75 Jeep CJs with the Ross steering system, I think the column might pivot up and away from the driver in a front end collision. I'm not positive on that, just thinking of the way it is designed. But if it is adapted to a Saginaw steering box, the driver being in danger during a front end collision might be very real.

Wow!

I have an update to this fiber optic thing. I recently started messing around with a Jeep XJ Wagoneer front header. The kind with the quad headlights. Those headlights use specific connectors, that are different for the high beam and low beam headlights. Take a look at the pictures. 1st & 2nd pics- this is one of the headlight connectors. What is that extra hole for? 3rd pic- this is a fiber optic ashtray "light" from a Chevy square body. The light socket plugs into the instrument cluster housing. When the panel lights are on, light goes through the fiber optic, and the other end is clipped to the panel right above the ashtray. It illuminates the ashtray. 4th & 5th pic- the Chevy fiber optic cable plugs right into that hole in the Jeep headlight connector. The stickout length matches the length of the small tab on the front of the connector, which sets how far the connector can be pushed onto the headlight terminals. I have a short video of inserting the fiber optic, it seats with a satisfying "click". All of this is to say, I'm convinced the headlight connectors for the XJ quad headlights (H4701 high beam and H4703 low beam) are designed to accept fiber optic, possibly for use in "tattle tale" indicators similar to the Cadillac ones.

Looking for a good condition XJ Waggy grill. Only need the grill, but would consider a partial or complete front header as long as the grill is good. Can pay cash or have XJ/MJ parts for trade/partial trade.

The connector is on the driver side behind the airbox, it is the connector for the lights in the front header panel. The wiring for the fog lights won't be there if it wasn't factory optioned. You can grab a front harness from a similar year MJ/XJ that was fog equipped from the junkyard. The wiring changed over the years as this thread states, so it helps if you have a basic understanding of electrical circuits, and you can re-pin a different harness to make it work. EDIT: to say that it's fairly common to find the pins in that connector very corroded, causing problems with the front lighting. It's a good idea to check yours, and check any junkyard one you get. Take apart the connector and look at the pins. I've seen them corroded away to nothing.

I don't know about the Jeep 2.5, but according to Dormans website, it fits 74-79 and 82-95 GM. On a Rockauto search, it breaks it down by year and model, most notably Chevy Impala 1976-1995. If you are anywhere near a junkyard, you could pick one up cheap to try. For example, U Pull It in Memphis lists a charcoal canister for $8.99. They have a 1991 Cadillac Fleetwood in stock that uses that part according to Rockauto.

If you used the factory connector for the dash switch, it is probably a green wire at the "B" (center) terminal on the switch. That wire is only hot when the low beam headlights are on. I prefer to be able to use my fog (actually driving lamps) whenever I chose, by themselves, with low beams, or with high beams. So I replaced that wire with one ran directly to the fuse block picking up ignition power; hot with the key on, so I can't accidentally leave them on and drain the battery. That's how Don did it in his diagram- the switch being fed power from an ignition (key on hot) source.

Found the air temp sensor connection in the overhead console wiring diagram. This is for a 91. The wire colors don't match but that doesn't surprise me. I found a reference to an air temp sensor in the 88 MJ wiring manual, and it had a orange/green wire, but I couldn't find anything in the schematics- probably because it wasn't an option, the fact it was even mentioned was probably a "copy and paste" from the XJ wiring manual.

I'm not certain that those wires were never present on an MJ. Perhaps it's true for early models. There were some changes in 1990, for instance, I think that was the year when they were no longer pre-wired for the bed cargo light. Earlier models were all pre-wired for it. It stopped in 90 I think. I know my 91 isn't wire for a cargo light. As I've gotten older, my memory has started to slip a little. But I want to say that my 91 has a plug near the windshield washer bottle for a rear window washer pump, something an MJ never had.

These are screenshots from the 1991 FSM. My guess would be the temp sensor for the overhead console. Second pic shows the fog lights connections.

In 2021, I got a new tow rig, a 2019 Chevy 2500 Duramax. It is the newest vehicle I have ever owned. I travel quite a bit for off road trips towing my CJ7. My trailer is a fairly light duty (rated 7k) unit with a 13' deck and 3' dovetail. Proper tongue weight puts the rear tires just barely on front of the dovetail. This makes for a short, maneuverable combination. With the diesel and exhaust brake, I don't even feel the trailer. I've put 70,000 miles on this trailer (yes, I track trailer mileage). Someday I'd like to upgrade to a trailer like the second picture!

Cool, I'll give that a shot, thanks.

Yes, exactly. I test these intermittent wiper modules, and then mark them and add to the pile. I have a bench test setup, so I can test the wiper delay modules (with a known to be good wiper motor), and wiper motors (with a known to be good delay module). It's fairly common for the delay to not work, but I've also had a few where low doesn't work. There is another topic here at Comanche Club about repairing these modules, but I have not tried it.