schardein

When I got my 1991 XJ, the trip meter did not work (along with just about everything else...). I sourced a replacement speedometer from the junkyard that was within 10,000 miles of my original speedometer. I adjusted the mileage on the new speedo to be correct for my Jeep, which took some creativity with an electronic speedometer. However, in the end, I accomplished it. So, no idea on how to repair the trip meter, other than replace it.

Funny, my brother showed me this article last night. Entertaining article, but is it true a clean, unmolested XJ goes for 10k? I think the author is reaching there a little.

1991 MJ Sport truck 1991 XJ saved in 2013 from the PO who made a lot of "repairs" before throwing in the towel. I went to look and told him "no thanks". He was asking $800 and asked me to make an offer. So I threw out $400 and he said yes and put out his hand to shake before my words were completely out. Since then I've fixed EVERYTHING except a leaky windshield seal- wipers, heater, AC, headliner, horn, cab wiring (shorted/burnt wires from radio install), crank sensor, cam sensor, oil filter adapter o-rings, etc. And made some upgrades- factory tinted glass, 28mm sway bar, late model horseshoe intake, replacement exhaust manifold and exhaust system, 96 throttle body, 4 hole injectors, engine/trans mounts, shocks, tires, replaced D35 with Chrysler 8.25. I now have just over $1700 in it. Serves as a daily driver, preferably on days when it's not raining. Also have a 1993 XJ that will give up a healthier 4.0 and a 4wd auto trans to convert the MJ to 4wd. I'll then have to decide how or if it gets reassembled and sold, or junked. I used to have a nice 2000 XJ that I sold, and immediately regretted (hence the 91 XJ) And back in the day, I owned a really nice 1989 XJ Wagoneer, woodgrain on black with the 4 headlight grill. I also have some CJs: 1983 CJ7 1980 CJ5 1967 CJ5

Yeah sometimes dragging a whole vehicle home can be a pain, but that looks like it has a complete 4x4 driveline minus the engine. Worth it to get the whole thing and pull parts at your leisure.

Darn it, I didn't get to see pictures! Did anyone save them, and can post them?

OK, I get it. You like dealing with your local place. And I get it that sometimes money saved isn't worth the headache. Both sets of tires I bought had rebates from Discount Tire and rebates from the manufacturer. That's where the deal came from. And, I'd do it to save $100. I'm frugal like that.

Those are all good points, except in my case: I care not about road hazard. If I get a flat, I change it. If I get a hole, I plug it. I don't call anybody. Never had a blem. I'd probably just run it. At least on my CJ, I completely mount and balance them myself. My local country hardware/feed/state inspection/tire sales place is glad to do whatever tire work I bring them. I'm on a first name basis with them, as you are with your place. I've bought two sets of tires through Discount in the past, and for me there were real savings involved. When I put new Michelins on my Chevy, I priced it out through Discount, including mounting and balancing fees, and went to several local places. Told them if they could match it within $100 they could have my money on the spot. None of them could do it. It seems that game has changed, hence my post.

I've been watching Discount Tire Direct for a year now. I'm looking to put another set of Michelin LTX M/S2 LT265/75 R16 on my Chevy and replace the 35x12.50-15 on my CJ7 (looking at a couple different options). What I've noticed is the tires I want are constantly out of stock. For a year now. I just noticed at Discount Tire website for In Store, they are available, but at a higher price! What's going on? I have beadlocks on my CJ7 and can change them myself. For the Chevy, even though I live in the middle of nowhere, there is a local business 3 miles down the road that changes tires. I don't want or need a trip to the local tire store. I can only interpret this to mean they are deliberately making me go to the store at a higher price.

Do you mean the driveshafts? Because the axles are not a quick in and out. Another option would be to convert the front end to locking hubs (lockout hubs, like the CJs had). I believe there are kits to do this, but I have no experience with them. I think they are expensive, which probably blows the budget thing.

Here is an old thread with pics of three different sized factory sway bars. My drive to work was 30 miles of mostly winding country road. Sway bars make a difference, and larger diameter handles better.

You sparked my memory on that wiring plug swap! That was the difference between the old and new dryer. Had to get the right plug from the junkyard.

Isn't it true that if you have cruise, there is a very short cable from the speedo to the speed sensor, and then the main speed cable? Point being, if you have cruise, you can just swap out that end cable to hook up the different speedometer.

I wouldn't be worried about the longevity of a 4.0 at all. I've had two go over 300k. I think anyone with a lot of experience with OBD1 4.0HOs will agree that common problems include: Leaking o-rings at the oil filter adapter. Replace them (they're cheap) and your good for another 250k. Cracked exhaust manifolds. All the OEM ones crack eventually. Later models went to two piece cast manifolds to solve it. Replace your cracked one with a cheap aftermarket replacement with "bellows" on the outside pipes. Adding a flex pipe in the exhaust system is also a known way to prevent future cracks. Crankshaft and (to a lesser degree) Camshaft positioning sensors. If you are doing a carb or TBI conversion these won't matter, but if keeping the MPFI, these sensors can leave you stranded. Replace with OEM whenever possible. I've never experienced a second failure after replacing both one time (on different engines). Motor mounts cracking (driver side a little more common) but that's not really an engine issue. And that's about it in my experience.

I should probably add that the 4.0 swap happened after a promotion at work, when I was finally starting to make enough that I could afford to spend on my hobby after normal living expenses and saving was accounted for.

If it comes down to getting a better condition engine as inexpensively as possible, I can understand a 4.0/carb swap or retaining the TBI. I've lived on a tight budget, so I most certainly understand cost is a concern. Along that line, a 4.0 still makes sense. A junkyard 4.0 will (probably?) be cheaper than a reman 4.2. It is well known that a cared for 4.0 will go 300k. So I wouldn't be scared of a 200k motor. If it did die an early death, another long block from the junkyard is cheap and since the conversion work is already done, it's a cinch to install. I don't know about anyone else, but it's been a few years since I saw a junkyard 4.2. You can throw a rock and hit three 4.0s. I get it you already have the TBI, and that's a big reason to go that route, but I disagree that it is simpler. MPFI requires 4 or 5 more injectors and the wiring for them. That's basically it. I guess it might LOOK more complicated. I like the simplicity of the 4.0 distributor- no timing adjustment, ever. Plug it in and lock it down. My nice Snap-On dial back to zero timing light/tach has sat in it's case for over 10 years and I'm ok with that. I'll just say that putting in the MPFI 4.0HO was one of the best mods I ever did to my Jeep. Before the swap, I would test drive this one very steep hill in 4wd low. Keep in mind, my 4.2/BBD carb ran VERY well. Still, I would have to modulate the throttle to keep it crawling up that hill. That hill was the very first place I went after the 4.0 swap. Not only did I not have to modulate the throttle, I could keep my foot entirely off the throttle. AND I could press on the brake! After a moment it would start to stumble, let off the brake it would smooth right out and keep climbing. I was sold from there. Not only off road, but daily driving. Cold start at -10 degrees? No problem. These are just my opinions and experiences. And I enjoy talking Jeeps and engine swaps!

It's a common problem that the wiring connection at the actual fan switch got hot and melts. This, in addition to the other things already discussed (resistor pack, grounds). Read through and didn't see it mentioned, so thought I would add it. If you are doing the work, might was well check the whole circuit.

When I fixed the AC on my Comanche, I used everything from a 1996 model XJ. Most parts were new, but did use some hoses from the junkyard. Hoses are routed differently in that year, which I prefer. Only thing I didn't replace was the evaporator in the dash, which received a good flushing. Used 134 refrigerant. I do remember I had an issue with the dryer, it was slightly different than the original and I had to get a fitting or something from the junkyard. I did my 91 XJ at the same time, and same way. One of the compressor bolts seized in the aluminum mounting bracket, and broke off. I ended up sourcing another bracket from the junkyard rather than try to drill it out.

This is 99% off topic... After reading Neil Gaiman's American Gods, I wanted to visit House on the Rock in Wisconsin. I attended the Jeep Jamboree in Northwoods this year and stopped there on my way home. Google it, and if it's up your alley, it's not too far out of your way.

Just read this thread and found it interesting. As some may know, I wheel an 83 CJ7 I've owned since 1995. It had the 258, then a 4.0HO for about 10 years, now a 5.3. I'm also building an 80 CJ5, exactly because I have a tried and true 4.0HO complete setup sitting on the stand from the CJ7. Some observations: After getting the 5.3 running, I strongly considered (still considering?) doing a 4.8/5.3 in the CJ5 because they are awesome motors. But that defeats the purpose of "I can build one from parts I have laying around, just need a frame, tub, & title". I'm not a fan of AMC V8s. There, I said it. Yes, they are a bolt in. But still, not a fan. I don't understand LS swaps with a carb, and 4.0 swaps with a carb fall in the same category. I get it, some people don't and won't ever understand how a transistor works, but still. Modern computer controlled fuel injection is the way to go. The only reason I swapped out my 4.0HO was going to 35s. Even with 4.56 gears I was always in the throttle to keep up with traffic in town. Highway and off road, I was happy (4:1 gears in the D300). I've built custom engines. My advice for someone who actually drives their vehicle (not trailer queens or weekends only), is pick the motor that makes the horsepower you want, and put it in. I've spent a lot of time tuning, adjusting carbs, changing timing curves, etc., and I don't miss it. I have a factory air cleaner for the 258, for the power brakes setup. It is offset from the carb and sits over the valve cover to make room for the power brake booster. I've thought about adapting that to the 4.0HO so that when I raise the hood, people will look, and then say "waitaminuit...". Even funnier, I am thinking of running hydroboost on the -5 like I do in the -7, which makes the sleeper air cleaner even more pointless. I run a 3550 in my CJ7. I've thought about running my spare 3550 in the CJ5, or getting a AX15. Even if I was to get Novak's super short D300 rear output, I don't see how it would fit. I have the CJ-5 down to the frame, and can mock everything up. It doesn't fit. It looks like you aren't even considering a T5? I know they have a horrible reputation, but like the D35, people still use them. That was the factory 5 speed for the 258. My CJ7 had one originally, which I swapped for a T18, then for the NV3550. I have a T5 now and plan to use it in the CJ5 with the 4.0HO, D300, 3.73 gears and 30-31" tires (no lift). From the outside I want it to look completely stock, except for a period correct Alpine cassette deck in the uncut dash panel. If the T5 mushroom clouds, I have the T18. Loose overdrive, gain strength, 6:1 first gear, and longer rear shaft. Another option would be a T18 and D18 transfer case. Yes, you would need an offset D44 rear. Then add a Warn overdrive. Have a 6:1 first gear, and 25% overdrive. I have a 1967 CJ5 with 4.88 gears setup like this. 75:1 crawl ratio, and when in overdrive it's like having a 3.66 rear gear. Pretty sweet with a 200hp Buick V6. Which by the way, are about the length of a 4cyl engine...

Thanks Pete. This is one of my favorite places to visit on the internet. Even when I'm not in a Jeep mood (rare...) I still like to drop in.

Ha, true. Kind of like Liberty Limited

So, just for the sake of discussion... I saw an early Jeep Cherokee in the JY yesterday with Pioneer trim. I thought to myself, that is a cool name for a trim package for a Jeep. Why do they (Jeep) not still use it? I did a quick google and only found Pioneer trim levels in reference to Cherokee and Comanche, which is what I am familiar with and expected. Wondering, does anyone else think Pioneer is a cool name for a trim level for a Jeep? Does Jeep still "own" the rights to it? Has it been used on any other models of Jeep? Picture added just because.

I'm just south of Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I wheel my 83 CJ-7, as the MJ is still 2wd. Locally, I've been to: SMORR- Great place with a beautiful campground and easy to hardest trails. They do a Jeep Jamboree there the first week of June. Moonlight Racing ORP- Great trails. The one time I went there was a party atmosphere going on and drinking on the trails. Flat Nasty- Only an hour from my place but haven't been yet. Byrd's Adventure Center- Near Cass AR. Great park. I did the Jeep Jamboree there last year, Sept 2017. It is going this coming weekend and I will be there again. I have a collection of XJ/MJ parts, PM me if you are looking for something.

I'm not for or against carbs, but looking at that picture gives me a headache remembering hours of time spent tuning...