schardein

In regards to the seat tilting forward- factory MJ buckets tilt forward by a lever on the side of the seat back. XJ 4 door seats will bolt in and work, but won't tilt forward (only up to 93 or 94, per above comments). XJ 2 door seats also tilt forward and are the preferred choice for MJ swaps, again up to a certain year (93 or 94?) The later 2 door seats that I have seen, have the tilt forward lever at the crease of the seat (between bottom and top cushion) instead of on the side of the seat back. That MAY help in determining which seats will bolt to your seat bases. But I am not sure if that is a clear cut thing.

Personally, I find the chime module is an annoyance. Which is probably why a lot of them are missing.

My 91 4x4 auto 4dr XJ comes in at 3700. My 1991 short bed 4.0 2wd MJ weighed in at 3500 lbs, and 3560 with a bed mounted toolbox, rubber bed mat, plastic tailgate protector, and a small tool kit on board.

This. Once you start messing with XJ/MJ buckets, you will find that you have to remove the lower seat cushion to access the bolts to separate the seat frame from the seat bracket. Bucket seats can be removed while leaving the bracket on the floor, (by removing the lower cushion first), but it's generally easier to pull the whole seat, then separate the brackets if needed.

Yikes. Didn't realize this was a common problem. Need to check mine. In the last week I've noticed the heater fan in the XJ running slightly slower when on high speed.

What exactly is this heater console pigtail?

I was in Hawaii, but the Wagoneer was left in Southern Illinois and sold somewhere between 2003-2005.

Wow... I want one!

Hope you made it out. Love the Wagoneer. I had a black/woodgrain '89. Drove it to over 300,000. Loaned it to my friend when I was stationed in Hawaii, and eventually told him to sell it. I often wonder what happened to it.

Glad it was a success!

Well done.

Don't want to derail this thread, but that is sweet. Custom bracket?

Yep, same for me.

Good example of shopping around for the best deal and alternate sources (machine shop). As far as "blocks are not heads", the description at Summit does say it does the block and heads ("heads", plural, in a straight six application)

Ah, I was having a senior moment. I worked in a motor pool installing deep water fording intake tubes on HMMWVs once, and used a hydraulic pliers type tool to "seat" the nutserts. I wanted to take it home... but didn't.

I just re-read what you wrote. I am assuming that means Napa mails it to you directly? They won't order it in and you pick up in the store?? If they are charging you shipping AND you pick up in the store I am calling BS.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brass-Cup-Type-Expansion-Plug-Lot-of-4pcs-2-NOS/152613035405?hash=item2388721d8d:g:Ja8AAOSwicJZXUb3&vxp=mtr Have a few extras in case one screws up.

That looks great. The brackets are bolted to the bottom of the Radiator L Bracket and hang down? Or are they bolted to the fiberglass front clip? And when you say nutsert do you mean something like this:

Wish I could help but I am drawing a blank here. This isn't a burn on the Renix system, but adding cruise to the HO is a little more straightforward. If I understand correctly, you have a connector that should plug into a cable, but your cable doesn't have place to plug in? Sounds like you will need to source that cable. It SOUNDS like it may just be there as safety, if you shift into neutral with cruise engaged, it would sense that and turn off the cruise? Guessing here. You might try to run the system without it just to see if it works. Or you might be able to figure out what that connector needs to see... like does it need a connection to ground for the cruise to function, or vice versa-- then just "fake" that part to see if you can get the whole thing working, then go back and get the right cable later, and in the meantime don't shift into neutral while on cruise (if that's what it's for). Whew, don't know if that helped at all.

How about $15 shipped? PM sent

Do these look like they would work?

Yes, I think the design is so it goes into the column more easily. The same connector is used on most older GM vehicles, or anything using a Saginaw steering column. I first encountered it in Chevy square body pickups.

Not sure if I understand what you are asking. The connector on the switch end is kind of strange, it is flat and has two circuits on each side. It plugs into the connector in your photo, at first glance it might not look like it does, but it does. The "notched" edge of this connector is retained by the white clip on the connector in your picture. Pic:

You are welcome. Interested to see how this works out. I have bolted in a factory trans cooler on the MJ, but it is not plumbed yet. I might look at just using this one, or running it in series as you mention. I refuse to use the through-the-core zip ties also. I mounted an electric fan that way on my CJ-7 way back in the day, and it didn't last one off road trip before rubbing a hole in one of the radiator tubes. If you like throwing away money, B&M sells some of the same coolers as Tru-Cool at a much higher price.