schardein

It's been a while now since the install, but I recall the holes for the push pins more or less lining up ok. But this gap... and unfortunately I have a second pair.

Left to right, 28mm, 26mm, 24mm (factory to my MJ)

I have a Kenwood "media player" stereo in my MJ. It looks like a standard Kenwood stereo, but is only half as deep since it doesn't play CDs. I was able to fit the little add on Alpine amp in behind it (tight fit) for a neat package. However, it does constantly change colors (which can be turned off) and I'm not sure it would meet your light requirements. I like it, although I am considering putting in a modded original tape player since I like the factory look and listen to my iPod 99.9% of the time. I could find the model number if you wanted.

I have personally had three different sizes off XJs. 24mm, 26, 28. I currently run the 28mm on both my XJ and MJ. My experience is 87-90 XJs with the Laredo or Limited package will have the 28mm. GD fotobukit screwed up my thread. Will try to repost pics later.

My end cap is a left (driver side). Sorry. I didn't have time to look for the license plate light lens. I should be able to tomorrow.

My gut is saying its a left, but will confirm tonight. And I may have a license plate light cover. I think they are the same left and right?

I think I have a rear end cap, can't remember which side, the molded in metal stud is broken. If you are interested I could post a pic later.

I've got one, pretty good shape, I bead blasted it (handle portion) and planned to spray it with some epoxy primer when I had enough items prepped to justify mixing up a spray gun full. That will be a while yet. Let me know if that interests you, I could post a pic later.

Same problem. I bought two pairs of the Rockauto ones and have installed one pair on my MJ. They are a different material and I think they will hold up well, however, they do not fit as good, they leave a gap where they are supposed to extend under the lip of the fender flares. It is noticeable (to me at least) at the fender flare right behind the front tire. Both sides are like this. I've noticed that most 96 XJs I look at have inner fenders that do not appear to be as fragile as egg shells. I would suggest sourcing a set from a junked 96, as Minuit mentioned.

Nice, but... why is there a manual forward/backward slider lever present? I don't see a motor in the pictures. I will say I am not very familiar with the powered seats. But it is possible the power switches are just bolted to a regular seat?

I've done similar work on both my 67 Cj5 and 83 CJ7. Looks great, big improvement! I like the "retains the factory layout but with upgraded components" approach. One of my biggest pet peeves for a CJ or Wrangler, is stray wires hanging from beneath the dash. It screams "POS", and a previous owner who lacks attention to detail, making one wonder "what else did he shortcut?"

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Thanks Pete. You just stated my philosophy behind the whole build.

Tennessee Mountains in 2010

Two Jeep Jambos this year and not much in the way of pics. I'll try to fix that next week at the Ozark Adventure Jeep Jamboree in Arkansas. Here is an older pic from Rausch Creek, PA.

I have to admit I feel much the same way. To the extent, when I found out I have the wire for a w/s washer "low level" indicator, I had to install one to make it work. But here's the worse part: My late XJ mirrors are also heated! So that would need to work too... future project waaaay in the future...

There are two versions of the 85-96 style mirror that attaches at the jet in front of the door window, a breakaway and a fixed. Sounds like you had the fixed version. I don't know if the fixed versions are factory or aftermarket (money saving) versions. I'm sure someone here knows and will chime in.

Multiple identical photos is always a nice touch too.

M67 Fragmentation grenade, pin pulled, safety spoon held in place with scotch tape, $650 obo

Lol! Living for a few years with the original, windshield hinge mounted 76-86 CJ mirrors have left me with a permanent fixation on mirror upgrades... If I remember right, the first mod I ever did to my very original Comanche was replace the flag style mirrors...

I'm not really that interested in this topic, but I will say this. It's hard to tell when a car is going to become a sought after, timeless classic. In my opinion, LJs have already achieved that status. They probably have more in common with the Scrambler, longer wheelbase, low production, even though they were never offered with a true pickup bed. Even if the prices are already inflated, I think a guy could come out alright if he found an original, low mileage one and stashed it in a garage for 20 years.

Haha, I think you're right. And she's the tougher of the two. The other is bigger and bullies her, but when it comes to a real fight...

I've added late XJ mirrors to both my XJ and MJ, and I can see where some say it detracts from the classic looks. My opinion is it makes up for it in improved visibility. I had to modify my window trim on both and that's kind of a pain. Mine are power but I didn't bother to wire them. I just manually move the mirror glass around in its frame. Might not be the best solution if more than one person drives it and they need a different adjustment. Since I set mine, I've never needed to adjust them. On a related note, am I the only one that hates the breakaway design of the original mirrors? In my experience it's rare to find one in good shape in the junkyard. Most of them have the breakaway clips cracked or broken.

It's an NV3550 from a TJ (info in my signature line too!). I adapted it to the motor with a Novak adapter plate that allows a Chevy Bellhousing to bolt on. I used a Chevy bellhousing with a built in hydraulic slave mount, makes for a clean setup. I was already running a hydraulic clutch on my swapped in 3550 with the swapped in 4.0. All I had to do was make a line to connect the m/c to the new slave. All done, the shifter handle came up almost exactly where a factory T5 shifter does. However it's design required the bolt on stick shift to be "above" the boot (see interior pic). I think it works out well. In the past, I just drilled the rear flange of the trans to accept the Dana 300 T-case, although since I was in this deep I went ahead and added a clocking plate so I could clock the D300 and gain some ground clearance. Still need to make a new crossmember that takes advantage of the clearance, I think it will be nearly, but not quite, flat. NV3550 is rated at 300 lbsft input torque, motor makes that or a little better. I have been driving it to work often (50 mile round trip) and have done two Jeep Jamborees this year, Land Between the Lakes and Top of the Ozarks. TOTO had some of the hardest trails I have ever put the Jeep through, and so far the trans is holding up fine.

I went ahead and bought the real deal also, but the larger version for my CJ-7 that has upgraded steering components. The grease boot was completely gone, so I needed something. I had similar results as Minuit. My CJ actually steers really well, much better since I recently put some degree shims on the front springs to get my castor closer to correct. The improvement was along the lines of "yeah it's better... I think". It shouldn't fail and disappear like my rubber one did, a plus for a rig that sees lots of trails.